Dr. Performance Staging Limiter

I would think that the best way would be a potentiometer and phony idle verification switch wired in parallel with the TPS on the same switch as a solenoid valve dumping boost pressure through an unloader valve... Flip the switch and the ECM sees the real TPS signal and the solenoid shuts at the same time.

But would a potentiometer work to dial in a specific RPM on an automotive governor? I guess it would given a certain torque converter once you get it tuned in... You could make a circuit that looks at RPM and adjusts TPS accordingly, or hi-jack the cruise/ PTO programming... :confused:
 
It's actually nothing like a throttle stop because what a throttle stop does is after the launch cuts power to take up time in order to run your index. For example, NHRA Super Comp, car will run 7.00 wide open but the class index is 8.90, set the throttle stop to come on after you break the beams for x.xx amount of time in order to run a dead on 8.90. I have a video on youtube of my SuperComp car if you care further investigate.

So, with that being said it's no throttle but a staging (assistant) as its entire function all happens before the launch of the vehicle. Anna did a great job of explaining it but I just wanted to clear up the idea of it being a throttle stop, again as someone else asked, yes it's more like a 2 step.

There is a press release in the latest issue of Diesel Power Magazine.


-Alex Laughlin
 
This is awesome...very excited about this. One question though, how does it get signal from the brake pedal? Is it as simple as getting 12v when the brake lights come on or something more complicated? Reason I'm asking is I race with a manual trans and I'm adding a line lock and want the one button for the line lock to release the brakes and disable your "2-step" box at the same time... This way I could completely take my foot off the brake pedal and just have one on the clutch and one on the fuel..

Thanks!!
 
alexlaughlin said:
It's actually nothing like a throttle stop because what a throttle stop does is after the launch cuts power to take up time in order to run your index. For example, NHRA Super Comp, car will run 7.00 wide open but the class index is 8.90, set the throttle stop to come on after you break the beams for x.xx amount of time in order to run a dead on 8.90. I have a video on youtube of my SuperComp car if you care further investigate.

So, with that being said it's no throttle but a staging (assistant) as its entire function all happens before the launch of the vehicle. Anna did a great job of explaining it but I just wanted to clear up the idea of it being a throttle stop, again as someone else asked, yes it's more like a 2 step.

There is a press release in the latest issue of Diesel Power Magazine.


-Alex Laughlin
Click to expand...

I've hinted at this product in a few threads already on this site. :)

From a manual trans perspective:

You do not need throttle input (floored) in order for it to hold rpm. This still correct Alex?

From what I recall with my conversation with Alex is think of it more as a tool to maintain load on the motor. The manual trans guys will appreciate this.

Once you fully stage, you set the box on. Say for a manual truck 2000rpm (instead of the 3200 that I've been told and found out that's needed now to get moving decently). With your right foot on the brake and left operating the clutch you can engage the clutch as much as you need to create load, thus creating boost. it will maintain that rpm you preset it to regardless of the load the clutch is creating.

There's a .5 second delay from when the box see's the brake release to when it dis connects it self from the throttle, giving you enough time to transition to the throttle right your right foot as you dump the clutch.

Alex, That's how I recall things. Still true?

If so, this box just leveled the playing field with the auto guys and the clutch manufactures will start rolling out light, unsprung triples to cram in the belhousings vs doubles. From what I can muster from time slips I've seen, after the 60 foot, auto's and manual's are typically neck and neck, typically with a good manual operator a bit faster mph.

As far as a line lock, it may not be necessary, but I'm sure a line lock will allow for the brakes to release faster.
 
JasonCzerak said:
I've hinted at this product in a few threads already on this site. :)

From a manual trans perspective:

You do not need throttle input (floored) in order for it to hold rpm. This still correct Alex?

From what I recall with my conversation with Alex is think of it more as a tool to maintain load on the motor. The manual trans guys will appreciate this.

Once you fully stage, you set the box on. Say for a manual truck 2000rpm (instead of the 3200 that I've been told and found out that's needed now to get moving decently). With your right foot on the brake and left operating the clutch you can engage the clutch as much as you need to create load, thus creating boost. it will maintain that rpm you preset it to regardless of the load the clutch is creating.

There's a .5 second delay from when the box see's the brake release to when it dis connects it self from the throttle, giving you enough time to transition to the throttle right your right foot as you dump the clutch.

Alex, That's how I recall things. Still true?

If so, this box just leveled the playing field with the auto guys and the clutch manufactures will start rolling out light, unsprung triples to cram in the belhousings vs doubles. From what I can muster from time slips I've seen, after the 60 foot, auto's and manual's are typically neck and neck, typically with a good manual operator a bit faster mph.

As far as a line lock, it may not be necessary, but I'm sure a line lock will allow for the brakes to release faster.
Click to expand...

Hot dam!!:cheer: It would be nice to have the "auto advantage" cut down a bunch!

Game on!! :tree: :drive:

:thankyou2:
 
what about the fact that your not going to have enough time, the guy that has one said pull up and engage both sets of bulbs first, then start bringing your rpm's or boost numbers up..what if its a pro tree, your not gonna have time at all...how would that work..
 
mulisha said:
what about the fact that your not going to have enough time, the guy that has one said pull up and engage both sets of bulbs first, then start bringing your rpm's or boost numbers up..what if its a pro tree, your not gonna have time at all...how would that work..
Click to expand...

I didn't get from Alex that reacted to speed of any sort. If that's the case, let it push though the brakes a little to full stage.
 
We have one on our truck and last year it seemed to work pretty good, if you have a fast spooling truck it works really great, takes a bit to get used to when you first use it but after that it works pretty darn good.
 
JasonCzerak said:
I've hinted at this product in a few threads already on this site. :)

From a manual trans perspective:

You do not need throttle input (floored) in order for it to hold rpm. This still correct Alex?

From what I recall with my conversation with Alex is think of it more as a tool to maintain load on the motor. The manual trans guys will appreciate this.

Once you fully stage, you set the box on. Say for a manual truck 2000rpm (instead of the 3200 that I've been told and found out that's needed now to get moving decently). With your right foot on the brake and left operating the clutch you can engage the clutch as much as you need to create load, thus creating boost. it will maintain that rpm you preset it to regardless of the load the clutch is creating.

There's a .5 second delay from when the box see's the brake release to when it dis connects it self from the throttle, giving you enough time to transition to the throttle right your right foot as you dump the clutch.

Alex, That's how I recall things. Still true?
Click to expand...


That is correct!
 
alexlaughlin said:
That is correct!
Click to expand...

I'll be giving you a call this spring and taking a box off your hands if your don't mind. I hope this kinda tool will prolong clutch life. something about launching at 3200 or so RPM's doesn't jive with me. But that app depends on how much boost your plan to build too.
 
So you do not need to have your foot on the go pedal at all while staging with this?

I kinda like the idea of a two step box better... but I'll try one this spring ass well!
 
mulisha said:
what about the fact that your not going to have enough time, the guy that has one said pull up and engage both sets of bulbs first, then start bringing your rpm's or boost numbers up..what if its a pro tree, your not gonna have time at all...how would that work..
Click to expand...
Ok, it amuses me to no end that he took my responses to mean I was a guy. I take it as a compliment.
While I was using it on Hogue's truck, I had plenty of time between my opponent and I turning on the bottom stage lights to bring the rpms up ( I was launching at 1500 rpms) before the lights started dropping. So, regular vs pro tree never came into play. And for the record, I launch my truck (which does not have a stage limiter, and is a manual) at 2000 rpms, and still have plenty of time between turning on the last stage light, and before the lights start dropping, to bring the rpms up.

JasonCzerak said:
I'll be giving you a call this spring and taking a box off your hands if your don't mind. I hope this kinda tool will prolong clutch life. something about launching at 3200 or so RPM's doesn't jive with me. But that app depends on how much boost your plan to build too.
Click to expand...

Why exactly are you launching at 3200 rpms. I can't imagine that any truck is in the efficient part of the power band there. My truck is at max hp around 2100 rpms and max torque around 2700 rpms......
 
crewgirl said:
Ok, it amuses me to no end that he took my responses to mean I was a guy. I take it as a compliment.
While I was using it on Hogue's truck, I had plenty of time between my opponent and I turning on the bottom stage lights to bring the rpms up ( I was launching at 1500 rpms) before the lights started dropping. So, regular vs pro tree never came into play. And for the record, I launch my truck (which does not have a stage limiter, and is a manual) at 2000 rpms, and still have plenty of time between turning on the last stage light, and before the lights start dropping, to bring the rpms up.



Why exactly are you launching at 3200 rpms. I can't imagine that any truck is in the efficient part of the power band there. My truck is at max hp around 2100 rpms and max torque around 2700 rpms......
Click to expand...

Ya know, I had a dummy explanation typed up cuz you're a girl. :) But I'm going to expect you've been around the block a few times.

You ever driven a double disk? Do you have something bigger then a stock charger? Search on these terms here and you'll realize why 3rd gear is needed to dig with. With out a load and no boost, you need to work the rpm's. I tried 2000, it results in consistent 2.6 60's. and horrid 330's. As I went up in charger size, I gained 10mph, and stayed at around 13.9 :) I never did try a 3200rpm launch at the track, but the butt 60' timer on the street (parking lot) measured a HUGE gain, but lack of rev-gain.

Something about massive RPM's and clutch slippage doesn't jive, but apparently it works. See threads where manuals run auto-ish 60's.
 
JasonCzerak said:
Ya know, I had a dummy explanation typed up cuz you're a girl. :) But I'm going to expect you've been around the block a few times.

You ever driven a double disk? Do you have something bigger then a stock charger? Search on these terms here and you'll realize why 3rd gear is needed to dig with. With out a load and no boost, you need to work the rpm's. I tried 2000, it results in consistent 2.6 60's. and horrid 330's. As I went up in charger size, I gained 10mph, and stayed at around 13.9 :) I never did try a 3200rpm launch at the track, but the butt 60' timer on the street (parking lot) measured a HUGE gain, but lack of rev-gain.

Something about massive RPM's and clutch slippage doesn't jive, but apparently it works. See threads where manuals run auto-ish 60's.
Click to expand...

I've never drag raced a dual disc, I have driven them around town and other than it shifting rougher than mine, haven't notice a huge difference in where it shifts. I also have a stock turbo on my truck. After I typed this, I got to thinking, and if it makes sense to bring the RPMS way up to sled pull, then I guess the same could hold true for drag racing as well.
I've never drag raced a manual transmission before this truck. It was always a T350 or a powerglide, so, in alot of ways the "mechanics" of drag racing a standard are still unknown to me. I'm sorry if my post sounded like I was calling you stupid, upon re-reading it, I can see that it might have come across that way. I was simply trying to understand why you needed such high rpms.
I guess as I add mods to my truck I'm going to learn these lessons for myself.
P.S. Thank you for not posting the "dummy" explanation.
 
crewgirl said:
I've never drag raced a dual disc, I have driven them around town and other than it shifting rougher than mine, haven't notice a huge difference in where it shifts. I also have a stock turbo on my truck. After I typed this, I got to thinking, and if it makes sense to bring the RPMS way up to sled pull, then I guess the same could hold true for drag racing as well.
I've never drag raced a manual transmission before this truck. It was always a T350 or a powerglide, so, in alot of ways the "mechanics" of drag racing a standard are still unknown to me. I'm sorry if my post sounded like I was calling you stupid, upon re-reading it, I can see that it might have come across that way. I was simply trying to understand why you needed such high rpms.
I guess as I add mods to my truck I'm going to learn these lessons for myself.
P.S. Thank you for not posting the "dummy" explanation.
Click to expand...

With a stock turbo and edge box back in the day of the Single disk ConFe. I have slips with 2.0. I could bark 4 (well 3) tires grabbing 3rd and at times 4th, leaving with about 1600-1800rpm if I recall correctly. Any more rpm's I heat that clutch up real fast.
 
So is this thing primarily aimed at the manual trans or auto trans crowd? Isn't Hogue's truck an auto? I know cranked dodge's is.

So it is able to maintain an actual RPM you set, regardless of load? Does it take an OBDII or crank sensor input? It may have already been mentioned, but what is the price?

This sounds like it would be cool on my Jetta. The version I daydreamed about would have just modified throttle input to a set level, this sounds like it has closed-loop feedback for RPM control.

Thanks,
Michael Pliska
 
Michael said:
So is this thing primarily aimed at the manual trans or auto trans crowd? Isn't Hogue's truck an auto? I know cranked dodge's is.

So it is able to maintain an actual RPM you set, regardless of load? Does it take an OBDII or crank sensor input? It may have already been mentioned, but what is the price?

This sounds like it would be cool on my Jetta. The version I daydreamed about would have just modified throttle input to a set level, this sounds like it has closed-loop feedback for RPM control.

Thanks,
Michael Pliska
Click to expand...


How's that diesel shift light coming along? :)
 
Cummin_Get_Some said:
WHOS MAKING ONE OF THESE???? I'VE BEEN LOOKING FOR ONE!! VERY INTERESTED!
Click to expand...

Michael and I chatted for a while about a shift light, might as well wire up a hobbs for an oil light too in the same unit.

However, only a few retards like our selves drag race diesel's with a manual, so the market is rather tiny. I'm not sure sled pullers would care for one, not exactly a fast moving sport. :)

If I recall correctly if time permitted, Michael was going to pursue the idea. Hence my question. If it's something universal, it could be adopted to anything, like TDI's.
 
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