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Old 04-07-2011, 10:22 PM   #81
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I thought a regular manual valvebody did that? So that in "D" it was actually in 1st and "1" is actually 3rd?
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Old 04-08-2011, 08:26 PM   #82
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No a regular manual VB doesn't do it. But yes, you are correct. Where 1st usually is, 3rd is.
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1968 Corvette 12v Cummins Compounds 47RH
1976 K30 CC SWB 12v 47RH
2000 Excursion VE 24v 47RH 4x4
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Old 04-08-2011, 08:42 PM   #83
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DieselWrencher View Post
I just scored a full manual reverse valve body built by Joe Webb tonight. Now to see if I can buy a new gate plate for my shifter.
Hey thanks for the !
My question is, how much does one of those bad boys go for?
 
Old 04-14-2011, 05:48 PM   #84
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Regularly I think a Goerend one is around $650.
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1968 Corvette 12v Cummins Compounds 47RH
1976 K30 CC SWB 12v 47RH
2000 Excursion VE 24v 47RH 4x4
1972 K30 Longhorn P-Pumped 24v 47RH Compounds
 
Old 04-14-2011, 09:17 PM   #85
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Dave is top notch stuff, but DTT makes good VB's too, and are generally a little cheaper.
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Old 04-14-2011, 09:31 PM   #86
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good stuff
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Carolina Diesel Performance 864-710-1032
 
Old 04-15-2011, 08:32 AM   #87
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Is that 650 with a core?
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-1994 4x4 12 valve 13mm, single 475 748/1292 Fuel 872/1470 N2O
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Old 04-16-2011, 10:34 PM   #88
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Thanks for putting all this info together everybody...will come in handy when I have to replace my direct clutches soon and I cannot afford to pay someone to do it.
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2007 2500 Mega 68RFE FirePunk EFI/CSP5 & TCM tuning, Edge CTS II.

1997 2500 Jokerfab cyl head, PDR street cam, FDS benched pump, DFI 5x18's, HX35 63/67, FirePunk 47RE & anteater.

2003 Jetta TDI 5spd "DZL WGN" lot's of mods
 
Old 04-16-2011, 11:02 PM   #89
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GLad you found the link mark. Couldnt find earlier.
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Old 04-18-2011, 09:41 AM   #90
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Anyone with good sources/pricing for new stock-replacement shafts for 47RH?
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95 2500 RCSB 2wd back-halfed and 4-linked
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Old 04-18-2011, 02:35 PM   #91
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Originally Posted by Hurley View Post
Anyone with good sources/pricing for new stock-replacement shafts for 47RH?
Did you check PATC?
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2001 2500 2wd
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Walbro 392
Goff diesel injection
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6x.013's by Weston
HTT 62/71/13 over FI 82/92/1.10
Levi's turbo blankets!
 
Old 04-18-2011, 03:03 PM   #92
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^yes, I have looked there
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THIS
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COMPD.

95 2500 RCSB 2wd back-halfed and 4-linked
5x14/7mm +100cc/4k/11-blade billet 63/68/.91 T4
539/989

03 RCLB 4x4, SSR
 
Old 04-18-2011, 06:02 PM   #93
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wittrans.com has decent prices on used shafts. I don't recall seeing any new ones there.
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Old 04-18-2011, 08:24 PM   #94
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wittrans.com has decent prices on used shafts. I don't recall seeing any new ones there.
yeah, I've been there too. I honestly would trust my used shaft before someone else's. [nohomo]
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THIS
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95 2500 RCSB 2wd back-halfed and 4-linked
5x14/7mm +100cc/4k/11-blade billet 63/68/.91 T4
539/989

03 RCLB 4x4, SSR
 
Old 04-22-2011, 04:35 PM   #95
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I'm about midway through my build. This, like I said earlier, is NOT rocket science.
One thing I did notice was in my rebuild kit (stock style clutches), some are a dark gray color, while the rest are the regular tan. Anyone know why?
I am in the process of building the clutch packs. I will be contacting my friend with a machine shop to mill some pressure plates to fit more clutches. I received one extra clutch for each pack, but had to reuse 1 steel (they were all in good shape anyway). I want 900hp to the ground in my drag car, so this should be a good test to see how well the stock style clutches hold up. I did sand all the steel plates which Bponci recommends here: Trans overhaul - Competition Diesel.Com - Bringing The BEST Together
 
Old 04-22-2011, 09:00 PM   #96
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Quote:
Originally Posted by b4ctrooper View Post
I'm about midway through my build. This, like I said earlier, is NOT rocket science.
One thing I did notice was in my rebuild kit (stock style clutches), some are a dark gray color, while the rest are the regular tan. Anyone know why?
I am in the process of building the clutch packs. I will be contacting my friend with a machine shop to mill some pressure plates to fit more clutches. I received one extra clutch for each pack, but had to reuse 1 steel (they were all in good shape anyway). I want 900hp to the ground in my drag car, so this should be a good test to see how well the stock style clutches hold up. I did sand all the steel plates which Bponci recommends here: Trans overhaul - Competition Diesel.Com - Bringing The BEST Together
Where did you get your rebuild kit?
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2007 2500 Mega 68RFE FirePunk EFI/CSP5 & TCM tuning, Edge CTS II.

1997 2500 Jokerfab cyl head, PDR street cam, FDS benched pump, DFI 5x18's, HX35 63/67, FirePunk 47RE & anteater.

2003 Jetta TDI 5spd "DZL WGN" lot's of mods
 
Old 04-22-2011, 09:02 PM   #97
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Quote:
Originally Posted by b4ctrooper View Post
I'm about midway through my build. This, like I said earlier, is NOT rocket science.
One thing I did notice was in my rebuild kit (stock style clutches), some are a dark gray color, while the rest are the regular tan. Anyone know why?
I am in the process of building the clutch packs. I will be contacting my friend with a machine shop to mill some pressure plates to fit more clutches. I received one extra clutch for each pack, but had to reuse 1 steel (they were all in good shape anyway). I want 900hp to the ground in my drag car, so this should be a good test to see how well the stock style clutches hold up. I did sand all the steel plates which Bponci recommends here: Trans overhaul - Competition Diesel.Com - Bringing The BEST Together
I didn't sand mine. Should I?
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RIP DEX

2001 2500 2wd
Diesel pro's cam
Walbro 392
Goff diesel injection
160hp pump
6x.013's by Weston
HTT 62/71/13 over FI 82/92/1.10
Levi's turbo blankets!
 
Old 04-22-2011, 09:30 PM   #98
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I sand blasted mine. not sure if that was the right thing to do though...
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-1994 4x4 12 valve 13mm, single 475 748/1292 Fuel 872/1470 N2O
-2005 4x4 12 valve CCSB 3rd gen '12-rail' 280hp
 
Old 04-22-2011, 10:50 PM   #99
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I haven't tried sanding the steels, but just looking at the wear on some of my used steels, I'd venture to say sanding will help them bite more at first but after 40-50 passes, the clutches will polish out the sanding marks in the steels and you'll be left with smooth "wet honed" polished looking steel surfaces.

Maybe if you hit them with some 60 grit paper you could cut deep enough scratches to last the life of the clutch pack???
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Old 04-23-2011, 05:26 AM   #100
b4ctrooper

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Originally Posted by Big Blue24 View Post
I haven't tried sanding the steels, but just looking at the wear on some of my used steels, I'd venture to say sanding will help them bite more at first but after 40-50 passes, the clutches will polish out the sanding marks in the steels and you'll be left with smooth "wet honed" polished looking steel surfaces.

Maybe if you hit them with some 60 grit paper you could cut deep enough scratches to last the life of the clutch pack???
I was thinking that myself. The only thing is, can you make them too scratched where they cause you some problems. Bponci said he blasts them which I'm sure etches them real good, but how deep does that go? Also, since you mentioned it, you may be right that they eventually polish up after some heavy use. I'm going to find out!

I bought my performance parts from PATC (band lever, servo cover, rear servo, billet flexplate, accumulator). I found a fairbanks shift kit on ebay for $35 shipped (half of PATC price), and I got my rebuild kit from a local trans supplier. If I find the link to his ebay store, I'll post it.
 
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