Best Everyday P-7100 tweaks on the cheap

Thanks, I figured this out after I posted. I went back out and set the plate dead center and set the star wheel with two threads showing when you look directly in the hole. Now it has less power than before, won't rev past 2100rpm and don't smoke at all. Tommorow I will play with it some more, using my calipers to measure how far back I have the plate set so I can duplicate my settings the next time I tear it apart and just keep adjusting .020" at a time until I get it were i want :)

For those considering this, don't hesitate or worry like I did. It is very easy and while it may take a few tries to get things perfect, it really is very very simple.

George
 
inline6359:

what pump do you have? a 215? or a 180 or 160?

If your gov arm hits the j hook on the plate, it should be fine, but something very strange happened to mine! the arm hit the plate, but it did not fuel hard on top, until after i adjusted the gov arm! Ill try to lead you through this! I know some trucks need more tuning then others to get them to work fine, another thing is if the shut off solenoid is working correctly, another problem i had with another truck (solonoid came up, but not the shut off lever) thats why it defueled on top, PM me if i dont answer here!
 
It is a 215 pump. I thought i had what i could do to the pump done as far as free adjustments go short of grinding the arm. Then i get on here and it seems i dont. Just wondering what else i can do for more fuel before i buy parts. I want the pump fueled and tuned before i buy sticks or DV's. My main concern is why it dosent seem to rev the way it did when i installed the springs.

P.S. Im pretty sure i am okay as far as top end fuel are concerened. I punch it and it hazes the road and egt's climb real quick.
 
inline6359 said:
whats your max boost? max egts? how far does it rev on empty? under load? how is smoke once turbo fully spools?
does the truck have any white/blue smoke?

i wonder if your afc boost line is broken? the truck below wont smoke in valet mode, and revs not as high! (valet mode switch, is the same as a non workin afc)

here is my trucks 215... its all free smoke! never stops smoking! even over 35 psi boost 5000 feet elevation
Click here to see Video
PS, that was a temporary under cab exhaust exit for testing. now its normal again!
Click to expand...
 
A little off the thread topic, but I'm not familiar with the valet switch, is it something you installed, or did it come on certain years? What benfit do you have with it that would make you add it (if it's not stock)

Thanks,
George
 
12valve said:
inline6359 said:
whats your max boost? max egts? how far does it rev on empty? under load? how is smoke once turbo fully spools?
does the truck have any white/blue smoke?

i wonder if your afc boost line is broken? the truck below wont smoke in valet mode, and revs not as high! (valet mode switch, is the same as a non workin afc)

here is my trucks 215... its all free smoke! never stops smoking! even over 35 psi boost 5000 feet elevation
Click here to see Video
PS, that was a temporary under cab exhaust exit for testing. now its normal again!
Click to expand...


my max boost is about 38, empty it revs quick i can rap 3500 no prob in 2nd but after that it seems to rev slower and take longer to get there, once turbo spools if i punch it i can still leave a cloud that casts a shadow if that means anything, as far as egt's well lets just say the pyro can be pegged and there is no whit blue smoke. I wonder if i may just be getting used to the truck. Not sure. LOL
Click to expand...
 
sounds like you got used to the truck power, That is one problem that happens always! A lil (much) money can cure that! (for a little while) turbo time? :)

gstanfield:
Ok:
its a switch that turns off the boost line going from the truck cold air manifold to the AFC housing on top of the p7100 pump!
(It avoids the afc foot to slide forward once it gets turbo boost!)
it takes the fuel plate out of the ecuation, which means running only on Dvs and injectors.
Thers a guy who has a 838 Hp truck, on valet it has around 500 Hp it helps him for driveabiliy, and on wet roads, and he also ggains 3 mpg in valet mode! on my truck i use it only to keep egts in check and cut down the smoke (none at full boost!) while otherwise people couldnt see the road while i passed.
below is a electric solenoid, I only used a in cab air valve, (those used in semi trucks for 5th wheel, i think).
DValetSwitch.gif

atsdiesel.com
 
Thanks 12V, sounds like something I don't really need right now, but I'll keep it in mind if I ever turn this thing up to insane levels of power.

Thanks,
George
 
turbos are on my dinnine room table. ATS compounds. Now i am looking for a head to fire ring and whatever else i want.
 
I recently advanced my timing up to 18* and now it seems like it falls on its face after about 1800rpms. It slows down a bit and it almost sounds like the valves are floatiing or something. Almost like a miss sound. Anyways i adjusted the valves and it still does it. What is the deal with this thing?
Do i need a gsk or sumthing to really take the full advantage of having 18* timing with the stock gsk???
 
oldsmokey97 said:
I recently advanced my timing up to 18* and now it seems like it falls on its face after about 1800rpms. It slows down a bit and it almost sounds like the valves are floatiing or something. Almost like a miss sound. Anyways i adjusted the valves and it still does it. What is the deal with this thing?
Do i need a gsk or sumthing to really take the full advantage of having 18* timing with the stock gsk???
Click to expand...
I am not sure what your overall set up, but I have heard of this if the timing is advanced to far on a stock set up. w/ stk set up all your doing is changing the point fuel is injected which can cause floating in the stroke cycle do to premature firing. Until you upgrade the GSK you may back the timing to say 15* it may help, it may not!! Just an idea.
 
i know the timing has NOT slipped. Because when i put it in neutral and mash it to the floor, it will go up to 3400 rpms (i messed with the high rpm lever stop screw when i had the pump off) it goes up there with NO popping or hesitation.
 
turbothom said:
Remove the plate. Remove the smoke arm. You will have to grind out the top rear of the timing coverplate to install the plug. SM......Look at the front of the pump. You will see the a plug, hex headed. That is removed. Check for full rack travel.

I install a 4000 GSK, no plate, no smoke arm, 180 HP injectors in a 160 pump, and dyno'ed at 397 HP smoke free. On the strip I look like a gasser.

Those are a few things.

..Preston..
Click to expand...

Wow. What rpm was that peak at? What kind of torque? Where were your EGTs? Was the turbo stock, did you adjust the wastegate? Details, man, details.... :confused:


Ok, guys I have a few specific questions. :D

- For the budget bomber, I haven't seen anything so far in this thread about adjusting or blocking the wastegate? Is this necessary? Anyone have a link to a procedure for it if so?

- I have a '95 160hp(auto) pumped truck. So far as I can tell, everything is stock enginewise, and the tranny has been beefed up quite a bit. I'm almost ready to bomb this thing a tad. I want to keep egt down since I'll be towing around 4k lbs on a regular basis, and more(bobcat) on occasion. I'm looking at 250-300 hp. Is that do-able with a ground plate, adjusting the starwheel, and bumping the timing? What plate profile would be best to grind to, and what timing setting? I don't want to overdo it, I might have employees driving this thing eventually and I don't want someone to melt it down...

- Dad just bought a '94 5spd, 175hp pumped dump truck(chassis cab dodge). He wants to pull a backhoe and loader(not at the same time ;) ). The loader/trailer setup should weigh around 20k lbs . EGT will be a big issue, but I'm thinking he should try to get around 300 hp if possible. What say y'all on modding this?

Y'all have a good thread going here- I've learned a bunch so far. Thanks!
 
You can get that kind of HP pretty easy
Grind the plate or move it full forward, get a boost elbow for the turbo turn the star wheel back a ways and shim the govener springs.

4K is nothing to pull with these trucks

I was in a bit of a rush the other day loaded a van on a car dolly
ran back and forth a few times getting things any way long story short
i took off and did not know i had put the van back in park on one of my trips back and forth. drug that sucker from the shoulder up on to the road when i heard tires dragging i remebered. stopped and kicked in out of gear.

Yeah bone head mistake but there you have it 3500 lbs pulled it in park and did not know it. 4k on a trailer easy !!!!!!!!!!!
 
Thanks guys. I was talking about 4000 pounds, no real desire for my engine to rev to 4k rpms. It would be nice if it didn't start defueling until I get close to 3k though. :rolleyes: I might get a bobcat, a bigger one... and I don't want to worry about EGT being too high while towing. My dad will be pulling around 20k pounds with his truck, I imagine EGT's will be high if things aren't setup right when its BOMBed
 
A 3k gsk helps a LOT when towing (if used right)
If you were to lay it to the floor with a bombed truck... yes it will get hot.
If you were to just ease into the peddle, a gsk helps sooooo much when towing. Just have to use common sense with your right foot.
 
I guess if I was trying to keep up with the big dogs I would not have much of an option, but there have been some pretty big strides made with the 6.0 lately, so I will stick with what I have.
"A man has got to know his limitations" LOL
 
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