Remote water pump

Ok, so lets hear some thoughts. Instead of having the internal impeller driven by the belt that pulls coolant in, I want to try an external /remote pump that will push coolant from the lower radiator hose into two places. One the factory pump location via a blockoff plate with a 1" fitting, and the lower radiator hose with another 1" fitting into the block, both feeding into the pump/oil cooler cavity. My thinking is it will at least keep up with, and maybe even out flow the stock impeller pump, and less chance of cavitation since it will be mounted lower and gravity fed to the impeller then pushed/forced through the block and head, and out to the radiator. The pump I chose is an 8 blade impeller driven by a 10-12 amp motor with all stainless steel internals and carbon ceramic bearing/shaft seals which is 2X the power of the typical electric pump that mounts in the stock location.

[ame]http://s375.photobucket.com/user/chassis11/media/Water%20Pump/DSC02066_zpsuaenc7lg.jpg.html[/ame]

My concern is will there be enough coolant circulation when the thermostat is closed or will there be hot spots or other problems I'm not thinking of since basically the coolant will stop circulating through the bypass when the stat is closed, and flow again when it starts to open?

Chassisman said:

Ok, so lets hear some thoughts. Instead of having the internal impeller driven by the belt that pulls coolant in, I want to try an external /remote pump that will push coolant from the lower radiator hose into two places. One the factory pump location via a blockoff plate with a 1" fitting, and the lower radiator hose with another 1" fitting into the block, both feeding into the pump/oil cooler cavity. My thinking is it will at least keep up with, and maybe even out flow the stock impeller pump, and less chance of cavitation since it will be mounted lower and gravity fed to the impeller then pushed/forced through the block and head, and out to the radiator. The pump I chose is an 8 blade impeller driven by a 10-12 amp motor with all stainless steel internals and carbon ceramic bearing/shaft seals which is 2X the power of the typical electric pump that mounts in the stock location.

http://s375.photobucket.com/user/chassis11/media/Water Pump/DSC02066_zpsuaenc7lg.jpg.html

My concern is will there be enough coolant circulation when the thermostat is closed or will there be hot spots or other problems I'm not thinking of since basically the coolant will stop circulating through the bypass when the stat is closed, and flow again when it starts to open?

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Why not just run no thermostat. I run no thermostat and a belt driven water pump with trimmed blades with no cooling or freeze plug issues. Seen 5000+ rpm a bunch of times. Runs at 180* driving on street. Not trying to talk you into a belt driven pump, just saying I think no thermostat is a good idea.

I think I've heard this before, and I think what is said is the engine may run too cool, or the coolant needs to spend time in the engine to properly absorb heat from the block. i know my motor has tight piston clearances and I'm warned to never run it hard under 160-180 deg or it may score the cylinders.

In other words I wouldn't want to run my motor hard under 190-200 deg. you will also start to have a build;d up of condensation in your oil, and poor mileage. All things a track only engine is not worried about, but a no no for a DD.