nitrous setup for drag racing with a manual

72chevy

New member
I was thinking a progressive controller that would bring the nitrous on at full throttle & ramp up with boost. I dont know jack about nitrous but it seems like letting out of the throttle on shifts might cause problems. What causes nitrous backfires? I want to avoid that.
 
Have it set on a hobbes switch where it turns off when the boost drops below a preset amount. Will turn off during shifts.
 
I doubt you'll find nitrous backfires to be an issue on a diesel... besides, why are you lifting to shift at the track?

A progressive box is great for managing clutch slip & tire traction.
 
I doubt you'll find nitrous backfires to be an issue on a diesel... besides, why are you lifting to shift at the track?

A progressive box is great for managing clutch slip & tire traction.

I have seen pics & video of some sort of backfire where the end tanks of the cac are blown or the compressor housing on the turbo is blown off. That is what I want to avoid & what causes it.
My dual disc clutch shifts slow already & if I dont lift on the shift it is even worse, with a single disc I didnt have to lift.
 
A "front fire" requires a fuel source - W/M injection, CHRA oil leak, LPG, etc. in conjuction with excess NO2.

Excessive drive pressure is typically the problem with overzealous nitrous use, overspeeding the turbo until the compressor and/or the turbine grenades.
Turbochargers are the most common part sacrificed to the NO2 gods.

Managing NO2-induced DP should have priority over ramping/staging schemes. $.02
 
Wow, your times in your signature are good.... i can only imagine with nitrous!

I hope to be in that range with slightly smaller injectors and a stock turbo.

And how much does your 72 Chevy weigh? cool setup!
 
The truck weighs right around 6300 lbs. I want to see what kind of times I can get with the manual tranny, hoping for the 12s. I am going to start with more fuel & air, if I dont reach my goal on fuel only I will resort to nitrous. Is your truck auto or manual?
 
The best way to manage nitrous is with a boost reference progressive controller, you can tie the second input to the clutch, and have the nitrous change channels when this happens.

I set the clutch in use channel to apply a small about of nitrous starting at 2 psi of boost with 5% nitrous flow, ramping to 15 % at 15 psi boost.

When you let out on the clutch, then I switch to a time based ramp, starting at 0 time at 20 % and ramping up to 100% at 1.5 seconds. This way you never get to 100% flow in the lower gears because you’re not in that gear long enough. Each time you depress the clutch, the time starts over

If you need help with this PM or call me, I helped designed the Nitrous Express NXD 5000 controller. I take the tech calls for diesel at Nitrous express *nx*

NXD4000.jpg


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launchtime.jpg
 
besides, why are you lifting to shift at the track?

Not being a smartass, just a little confused... but are you suggesting that us manual trans drag racers stay at full throttle, depress the clutch, and bang into the next gear, then release the clutch still at full throttle?
 
Flat foot shifting would be pretty cool ive only seen it done on a subaru tho and i can tell you the boost loss is very small
 
So the faster you shift, with out lifting, the less ware on syncros. Right?

Sure - that's one way of looking at it.


"Slow" speed-shifting is a good way to grind & chip teeth.

Not being a smartass, just a little confused... but are you suggesting that us manual trans drag racers stay at full throttle, depress the clutch, and bang into the next gear, then release the clutch still at full throttle?

Of course... we've been doing it for years - stage at 2Krpm+ and mat the skinny pedal just after a Sportman's tree 2nd yellow, drop the clutch on the 3rd light and start rowing. Curb-stomp the clutch a few hundred RPM under redline and yank the next gear... don't worry about that cramp in your right leg either - it'll help keep you from barking the turbo through the traps and there's plenty of time to loosen it up on the return road. :Cheer:

G56s are easier to shift than NVs, but they can also bang gears.

DD clutches shift slower than singles, but triples seem to shift somewhere in between.

Transmission & clutch combo dictates correct shift points to account for RPM float (SW on an electronic truck can help manage flare).

Flat foot shifting would be pretty cool ive only seen it done on a subaru tho and i can tell you the boost loss is very small

Yes, shifting quickly can easily drop boost below 20psi, whereas no-lift shifting only loses @5psi from max.
 
wide open throttle shifts work real well. real real well. my buddy picked up half a second in his srt4. on my drag bike it breaks the tire loose shifting into 3rd and 4th.

with a nv4500 the end result is going to be picking up pieces of the trans
 
wow... I figured that would just scatter parts. I'd like to try it but just got my truck back on the road from busting the original G56. Are there any videos of anyone racing like this?
 
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