Budget front end build

bigstacks95

Diesel Doc
Since I was already set on going to a drop box this winter, I figured I might as well do the front axle as well. I can't wait to see how this thing works out, it seems like its come out really well so far. Here's a rundown.

Started with a 2.5 ton military toploader axle and an F106 someone had chopped the axle tubes and spindles off of. Got the toploader for $300, the F106 housing for free, and the F106 dropout and carrier for $250 bucks. Chopped it all apart with a handheld band saw and made some aluminum pucks to go into the F106 dropout and toploader spindles which fit a 1-1/4" piece of DOM tubing through.

Mocked up on the shop floor. As you can see the F106 was cut off way to narrow but I was bound and determined to make it work.





Also picked up a pair of 16 spline TRB axle shafts from an old time modified 4wd puller for $400 bucks. They were pickled in wooden boxes, covered in axle grease, and came with a set of locking hubs. Score!

Here's the housing all welded up and frenched together. I used some 3/8 and 1/2" flat pieces to make the transitions. Not the smoothest but it wont break!



Also cut what was left of the oem 2.5 ton steering stuff off



I found these nice Rockwell four-link brackets from Ballistic fabrication for like 70 bucks. Well worth it to me.



Mocked up four-link and steering cylinder mount, which I ended up having to flip to the other side since the cylinder inlet and outlet ports would have hit the tie rod.



First time under the truck. I cut the crossmember under the engine out and flipped the oil pan around. I googled "Cummins Front Sump Oil Pickup Tube" and came up with one from a 4B application that fits perfectly, its about a half inch off the bottom of the pan which is good enough for me.



Yes those are tractor links. I have been running tractor link lower control arms for years with the Dana 60, so I figured they'd hold up at least long enough to get a few passes on the truck and give me a chance to build some nice ones later on.



Mocking up the front suspension, I was originally going to make a bucket to run the stock coil in, but ran out of room and figured I'd bite the bullet and go with coil overs. These aren't Afco's but they are double adjustable and fit a standard 12" coil-over spring, and were only $189 a piece. The springs are about $50 each.



Excuse the splatter





To be continued....
 
Another pic of coilover shocks and springs.



Started assembling the dropout. I made two of these little bushings so the 2.5 ton/16 spline mini-spool fits in the F106 carrier.



Here is the 2.5 ton mini-spool. This was like $250 from mega mud trucks or something like that



Assembled F106 dropout



This was seriously one of the worst thing I've ever had to do on this truck. I cut all the spring and shock buckets off the frame with the torch and finished it up with a grinder. It took me almost a whole week to do because I could only bear to work on it for a couple hours per night.



Housing painted and installed, axles and spindles installed, checking the steering for any binding or other issues.



started mocking up the upper mounts for the coilovers



And welded and installed. I am using OEM hubs for now, I can't drop another grand on aluminum hubs right now so these will work for now.



Here I have started mocking up the brakes and have machined a little shoulder onto the hub so I can weld a 1/4" thick rotor on. A friend of mine has a plasma table and after a bunch of measuring he was able to cut me two brake rotors out of a piece of plate that can be welded onto the hubs where the shoulder is. The calipers are $100/ea from Willwood. The hubs were $150 from a local mud truck guy. Bearings/seals/nuts were about 100 bucks on ebay



Here it is with the rotor welded on

 
Finally got it back on its feet. I traded four American Racing wheels for the two 6-lug Real Wheels.

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So at the end I had:
$300 in housing
$250 for F106
$350 for the correct gears from Greensburg Machine
$150 for bearings and seals for the F106
$400 for locking hubs/axles
$1000 in shocks/springs
$150 in hubs
$200 for brakes
$100 for the tractor links
$100 for the axle nuts, wheel bearings, and seals
$70 in the four link brackets
$150 in random hardware, nuts, bolts, and the aluminum pieces and pipe for the jig

So thats a little over $3k, Not too shabby as long as it holds up!
 
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Nice job! You will never break it, that's for sure. I am in the process of splicing in a Dana 80 pig using all my 60/70 outers right now for my front. It is the last weak link in the driveline.
 
Nice job! You will never break it, that's for sure. I am in the process of splicing in a Dana 80 pig using all my 60/70 outers right now for my front. It is the last weak link in the driveline.

Thanks! The Dana 80/60 combo would have been my second choice since parts are so easily available.
 
Looks great Dave! Awesome work. Love the true built not bought setups and designs on your truck.. Those rims set it off though lol.
 
First time under the truck. I cut the crossmember under the engine out and flipped the oil pan around. I googled "Cummins Front Sump Oil Pickup Tube" and came up with one from a 4B application that fits perfectly, its about a half inch off the bottom of the pan which is good enough for me.

What did you do to clear the oil pan of the pig housing? Is it a flat dry sump pan?

Front sump oil pan. I have seen others do this with big front axles as well.
 
Looks great Dave! Awesome work. Love the true built not bought setups and designs on your truck.. Those rims set it off though lol.

The rims are the icing on the cake. You bailed me out having those things!

Nice work! I am sure you saved a lot between your budget rear and now front axle.

Between the front and rear I am about $5k in both. Some places charge more than that for just a rear.

What did you do to clear the oil pan of the pig housing? Is it a flat dry sump pan?

As someone just mentioned, I simply flipped the pan around and used a front sump pickup from a 4bt. It has to be from a 4BT because the 6BT front sumps have a super deep 16 qt pan with a deeper sump. I have the part number around here somewhere if I can find the slip I'll post it
 
Looks good! Need to keep a look out for a steering axle to use. Use to have a old lull around that i should of kept the axles from
 
I have an old tractor axle out back...but it's planetary reduction out at the knuckles...would take some gearing calculation to figure that all out.

Chris
 
I have an old tractor axle out back...but it's planetary reduction out at the knuckles...would take some gearing calculation to figure that all out.

Chris

Unfortunately we aren't allowed to use planetaries in truck pulling. Otherwise that would have defiantly been the way to go
 
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