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Old 12-19-2018, 09:32 PM   #21
J-Pipes
 
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Since nobody has recommended it, is the 369sxe craze over?

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Old 12-19-2018, 09:52 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Poulina View Post
I’ll tell you how 15k feels like this weekend with an air moving 6.7
What size turbins and housing are you using? Is it the cast wheel or FMW? Can't wait to see how it goes.

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Originally Posted by J-Pipes View Post
Since nobody has recommended it, is the 369sxe craze over?

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I've thought about it, but this being my daily driver, I want the reliability of an s400. Also it might be a little overkill for my build, Ive seen charts over 900hp with it.
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Sold: 02 Duramax
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Old 12-19-2018, 10:34 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blackmega3500 View Post
Then why not the sxe366? Damn good turbo for the price, and meets all your needs.
Again, I want the little extra reliability of s400.
I plan on abusing the crap out of it at dyno competitions making 800hp+, maybe more eventually, and driving it several hours every day, and pulling 20k+ sometimes.
S300s are out.

Why go for a 66mm over a 67.7? Same exhaust side, almost same spool, but 467 has a map closer to the daily driver and dyno numbers I want. Pros and Cons of s466 vs s467.7?
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98 lifted Ram 5.9 gas
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Sold: 02 Duramax
FASS, dual cp3, 60% overs, stock/s475, PPE trans, lowered on NT420S
 
Old 12-20-2018, 06:50 AM   #24
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I'm running a cast wheel 472/83/1.0 on my p24 truck and it does surprisingly well, given the added displacement you have and being a common rail I could see the street manners being even better. I just can't see a 467 hitting your goal smoke free on fuel only, might as well give yourself some overhead, with the same turbine a 472 shouldn't come up that much slower. If you're going with an 83mm turbine I wouldn't go smaller than a 1.0 housing.
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Old 12-20-2018, 06:02 PM   #25
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Originally Posted by zachu812 View Post
I'm running a cast wheel 472/83/1.0 on my p24 truck and it does surprisingly well, given the added displacement you have and being a common rail I could see the street manners being even better. I just can't see a 467 hitting your goal smoke free on fuel only, might as well give yourself some overhead, with the same turbine a 472 shouldn't come up that much slower. If you're going with an 83mm turbine I wouldn't go smaller than a 1.0 housing.
How would the 472 do towing 20k with a tight converter?
I'm worried about it lighting too fast with a trailer or when passing on the highway.

What about using a wastegate with a .90 housing to keep spool and top end just for dynos?
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Sold: 02 Duramax
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Old 12-20-2018, 07:08 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blackmega3500 View Post
Not really sure you know what you want bro!
The bigger the turbo the slower the light... when towing I have to keep my shift points on the column higher so I don’t snuff the turbo out.
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Old 12-21-2018, 02:01 AM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blackmega3500 View Post
Lol, I know. I said what I did because the 472 is ALOT more off/on then the 467.

I liked the 472/83/1.0, but on that setup with the old 100hp nozzles and efi it wanted to boost at 2300rpm. That was when the truck weighed about 12.5k.

Not to mention the bark that could happen.
My bad quoted the wrong person
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Old 12-21-2018, 06:59 AM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blackmega3500 View Post
Lol, I know. I said what I did because the 472 is ALOT more off/on then the 467.

I liked the 472/83/1.0, but on that setup with the old 100hp nozzles and efi it wanted to boost at 2300rpm. That was when the truck weighed about 12.5k.

Not to mention the bark that could happen.
Are you referring to an SXE S472? I'm talking about an SX3 cast wheel and it's not at all an off/on charger, bark isn't terrible unless you catch the o/d shift at a weird time but with a 68rfe that might not be an issue.

To the OP, towing 20K and being able to hit 800hp fuel only with a single charger is gonna take some compromises on one end or the other. Only tow heavy a couple times a year? Get the bigger charger and shift higher while towing. Towing is a priority? Get an S467 with a tight housing and deal with a little more smoke on the big power tune.

The S472 I'm referring to only has another 5mm on the exducer of the comp compared to an S467, I don't think it's gonna be THAT big of a difference personally.
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Old 12-21-2018, 08:41 AM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blackmega3500 View Post
Not really sure you know what you want bro!
I wouldn't have made this thread if I did. Thanks for the echo though.

Someone has a 472 and says its very streetable... I can be curious how it would do in a setup like to mine. Doesn't mean I'm leaning towards it. But who knows, I ran my Dmax with a single s475 for a while and it did close to what I'm hoping for out of this new truck.

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Originally Posted by zachu812 View Post
Are you referring to an SXE S472? I'm talking about an SX3 cast wheel and it's not at all an off/on charger, bark isn't terrible unless you catch the o/d shift at a weird time but with a 68rfe that might not be an issue.

To the OP, towing 20K and being able to hit 800hp fuel only with a single charger is gonna take some compromises on one end or the other. Only tow heavy a couple times a year? Get the bigger charger and shift higher while towing. Towing is a priority? Get an S467 with a tight housing and deal with a little more smoke on the big power tune.

The S472 I'm referring to only has another 5mm on the exducer of the comp compared to an S467, I don't think it's gonna be THAT big of a difference personally.
Thanks for the specifics. Towing isn't a huge priority, but it's still more important than cleaning up the smoke on the rollers. 467 still seems like the better option.
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93 12v, s366, 5 spd man, cam
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Sold: 02 Duramax
FASS, dual cp3, 60% overs, stock/s475, PPE trans, lowered on NT420S
 
Old 12-21-2018, 08:56 AM   #30
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Also no one really said anything about wastegating for drive pressure. I fiddled with it on my Dmax and it helped a little, never checked hp numbers back to back though.

Would it be worth while to get the smaller housing and a wastegate? Or would the spool difference not be noticable enough to justify the price and maintenance?
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12 Ram 3500 SRW, 68RFE
5in turbo back, Anarchy EFI engine/trans, 5in lift, Wehrlie trac bars.

93 12v, s366, 5 spd man, cam
98 lifted Ram 5.9 gas
02 Impala, dent in the door

Sold: 02 Duramax
FASS, dual cp3, 60% overs, stock/s475, PPE trans, lowered on NT420S
 
Old 12-24-2018, 09:35 AM   #31
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Give Chris a call At Silver Bullet. I run one of his 465 builds and it's cleaner than a 467 and pulls hard Anything bigger than that towing heavy will be a pig. I tow 25k on a regular basis With a 6.7 and a 48re. I wouldn't push high HP thru A 68! I don't run a wastegate!
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Old 12-24-2018, 04:18 PM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CHDiesel View Post
I've always heard the opposite about 5 blade, but I'm not turbo guru.
You have probably always heard this because it is true, less main blades are more efficient at higher rotor speeds, therefore on the same given engine it would produce a greater power potential higher in the RPM range.

That being said the blade count is not a huge factor in overall power, there are a few factors that do have a large impact, but none of which I have seen discussed.
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Old 12-25-2018, 02:46 AM   #33
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I've heard good about Silver Bullet 465, but is that just a billet blade 64 or a feasible option for me. Is the compressor wheight and turbine OD much different than a 66 or 67?

I have a Suncoast dealer only 90 miles away, and I'm looking at an 800hp unit, since any 800hp+ will only be used on the rollers, so I'm not worried about my 68rfe holding up

Quote:
Originally Posted by blackmega3500 View Post
Clearly you haven't been around many good tuned 6.7s.

OP, don't waste your money on a 464. This was a stupid fad pushing cheap a$$ turbos from Borg, slapping a billet wheel in it and charging double because it had a sticker on it.
No I haven't been around any tuned 6.7s at all, other than the occasional 500-600hp ones that show up to the Dyno contests for fun. I am taking your advice into count, but without my own personal experience or a wider sample size, forgive me if I'm don't jump right on your ideas at first. But they are being weighed.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Smokem View Post
You have probably always heard this because it is true, less main blades are more efficient at higher rotor speeds, therefore on the same given engine it would produce a greater power potential higher in the RPM range.

That being said the blade count is not a huge factor in overall power, there are a few factors that do have a large impact, but none of which I have seen discussed.
I figured. I might as well focus on turbo sizes and specs before worrying about something as arbitrary as wheel designs.
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12 Ram 3500 SRW, 68RFE
5in turbo back, Anarchy EFI engine/trans, 5in lift, Wehrlie trac bars.

93 12v, s366, 5 spd man, cam
98 lifted Ram 5.9 gas
02 Impala, dent in the door

Sold: 02 Duramax
FASS, dual cp3, 60% overs, stock/s475, PPE trans, lowered on NT420S

Last edited by CHDiesel; 12-25-2018 at 02:54 AM.
 
Old 12-25-2018, 02:19 PM   #34
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Originally Posted by blackmega3500 View Post
They make boost faster due to more available volume, but loose top end efficiency. Theres a reason other builders don't use a 5 blade, and even went back to the 7 blade design from the 6 blades.
Where do you get these ideas from? Or do you just make these things up in your head?
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Old 12-25-2018, 06:32 PM   #35
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It's called volume mi amigo. Greater volume faster equates to better response down low, yet will peak faster than one of equal size with more blades which will sustain and peak later/harder with more efficiency.

Which would push more water faster with less effort, a canoe paddle or a paddleboat wheel....

Hydrodynamics and air are very similar with how volume is moved.
It all sounds great, but it’s not correct. Comparing paddling a canoe and a paddle boat wheel are not the same as a compressor wheel. You need to look at the speed a compressor wheel is spinning compared to a canoe paddle and a paddle boat wheel, nowhere near the same.
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Old 12-25-2018, 06:37 PM   #36
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And as Weston said, blade count plays a much lesser role compared to other things, such as the sharpness of the leading edge of the blade.
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Old 12-26-2018, 11:54 AM   #37
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Where do you get these ideas from? Or do you just make these things up in your head?
I wouldn't concern yourself too much with someone's comments that clearly has no concept of the basic fundamental properties of a radial compressor.

Quote:
Originally Posted by CHDiesel View Post
Thanks for the specifics. Towing isn't a huge priority, but it's still more important than cleaning up the smoke on the rollers. 467 still seems like the better option.
The S467 isn't a poor choice, but do realize it's original application was for a much larger cubic inch John Deere engine, hence the larger AR cover on such a small compressor.

That being said there are better options out there depending on how much you are looking to spend, if you are interested feel free to message me as I do not frequent the forums.
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Old 12-26-2018, 01:02 PM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1stgensleeper View Post
Where do you get these ideas from? Or do you just make these things up in your head?
Quote:
Originally Posted by blackmega3500 View Post
It's called volume mi amigo. Greater volume faster equates to better response down low, yet will peak faster than one of equal size with more blades which will sustain and peak later/harder with more efficiency.

Which would push more water faster with less effort, a canoe paddle or a paddleboat wheel....

Hydrodynamics and air are very similar with how volume is moved.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Smokem View Post
I wouldn't concern yourself too much with someone's comments that clearly has no concept of the basic fundamental properties of a radial compressor.
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Old 12-26-2018, 01:47 PM   #39
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I should probably release my 2 blade 69mm compressor wheel. Much volume at low RPM and 69mm so you know it makes power.
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Old 12-26-2018, 02:12 PM   #40
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I should probably release my 2 blade 69mm compressor wheel. Much volume at low RPM and 69mm so you know it makes power.
Would a single blade with a counter weight work even better though?!
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