Caltracs & drag radials

Dockboy said:
Caltracs are not a "set and forget" type of product!! They are designed for racing. You would need to adjust them when at the track for your "racing setup" and the adjust them when you leave for a "street setup".
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OK thanks man, so what's you're suggestion for a street setup vs. the 'back off 3 turns' for the track? I have always kept mine clamped down on the street to keep them from making noise. Do you just back them way off or will the same 3 turns keep them clear? Another question for anyone that's had these for any length of time on a DD... How long will those aluminum bushings last? I've had mine for three years and they seem OK so far, but I just wish they incorporated a way to grease the bushings other than at install.......
 
Greg--are you running a full leaf suspension?

Reason I ask is because I was experiencing the same hop with a full leaf suspension with a half turn preload while static. The only way to eliminate the hop was to back off the preload to where you suggested, 3/8-1/2" from the spring pack. My guess was that (with a full leaf suspension) that so much load was placed on the springpack from the bar that once you launched, it wanted to unload, thus flipping the rear end up.

I've since went to running only two leafs and loading the Caltracs the same as recommended by Caltrac--1/4 to 1/2 turn from static. No hop and she transfers weight nicely. Leaving 3/8" - 1/2" space between the bar and the pack with only two leafs I'm afraid too much axle wrap would result. Just my experience.
 
Double J said:
Greg--are you running a full leaf suspension?

Reason I ask is because I was experiencing the same hop with a full leaf suspension with a half turn preload while static. The only way to eliminate the hop was to back off the preload to where you suggested, 3/8-1/2" from the spring pack. My guess was that (with a full leaf suspension) that so much load was placed on the springpack from the bar that once you launched, it wanted to unload, thus flipping the rear end up.

I've since went to running only two leafs and loading the Caltracs the same as recommended by Caltrac--1/4 to 1/2 turn from static. No hop and she transfers weight nicely. Leaving 3/8" - 1/2" space between the bar and the pack with only two leafs I'm afraid too much axle wrap would result. Just my experience.
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I have removed the bottom leaf on both rear spring packs. I was worried about excessive axle wrap also adjusting them that way but because I use the bottom hole in the front bracket I believe the extra force applied helps compensate for that.
 
VanillaGorilla said:
OK thanks man, so what's you're suggestion for a street setup vs. the 'back off 3 turns' for the track? I have always kept mine clamped down on the street to keep them from making noise. Do you just back them way off or will the same 3 turns keep them clear? Another question for anyone that's had these for any length of time on a DD... How long will those aluminum bushings last? I've had mine for three years and they seem OK so far, but I just wish they incorporated a way to grease the bushings other than at install.......
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Personally, I would remove the bars when driving on the street and then use the cushion trick on the pin to keep the front brackets from rattling. Too many variables...carrying a load...not carrying a load...half a load...ect. You would need to adjust them everytime you changed the wieght in the bed to make sure they were not binding. Daily driving with them on a car is one thing, but a truck is different unless you never planned on putting anything in the bed. If that is the case, then I would adjust them with just enough preload to keep the from making noise. Again, Caltracs are designed for a racing traction aide , not daily driving.
 
Dockboy said:
Personally, I would remove the bars when driving on the street and then use the cushion trick on the pin to keep the front brackets from rattling. Too many variables...carrying a load...not carrying a load...half a load...ect. You would need to adjust them everytime you changed the wieght in the bed to make sure they were not binding. Daily driving with them on a car is one thing, but a truck is different unless you never planned on putting anything in the bed. If that is the case, then I would adjust them with just enough preload to keep the from making noise. Again, Caltracs are designed for a racing traction aide , not daily driving.
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Thanks for the help Greg. Trucks in a bodyshop right now, but when it gets out I'll try to back them off 3 turns and see if that works for me on the street. I don't carry anything except the wife and a chocolate lab so as long as they don't eat too much I should be ok...lol
 
Dockboy said:
I have removed the bottom leaf on both rear spring packs. I was worried about excessive axle wrap also adjusting them that way but because I use the bottom hole in the front bracket I believe the extra force applied helps compensate for that.
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Exactly. My two spring leaf setup would probably twist up like a pretzel if given to much bar clearance. I don't dare test the theory, so I keep my setup 1/4-1/2 turn tight on static load.
 
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Also may add that the driver should be in the car or correct weight ballast be placed in the seat when pre loading the bars. One more thing to think about is on my Comet a 1/2 turn on the right rear took 10-15lbs off the left front tire on 4 corner scales......
 
Timebomb said:
Also may add that the driver should be in the car or correct weight ballast be placed in the seat when pre loading the bars.
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How dare you read the instructions!!!!!!

Timebomb said:
One more thing to think about is on my Comet a 1/2 turn on the right rear took 10-15lbs off the left front tire on 4 corner scales......
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That is interesting! Could make a huge difference, especially ona little Comet.
 
who/where r u guys getting your caltracs from? 03' 3500 srw 4x4. I only seen 2wd listed on their site.
 
Calvert Racing. I called them when I got mine to make sure I got the right parts/kit since my truck is lowered some in the rear end.
 
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Dockboy said:
I have removed the bottom leaf on both rear spring packs. I was worried about excessive axle wrap also adjusting them that way but because I use the bottom hole in the front bracket I believe the extra force applied helps compensate for that.
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That's what I'd be worried about, but if your using them in the same way I'll give it a try. Mine 60's better in the upper hole seems like. I have the overload pulled on mine also.
 
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