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Old 05-15-2018, 09:30 PM   #17301
jfaulkner
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chevota84 View Post
That sounds dickish after I reread it and that's not what I intended lol.

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Yea calm your tit, we donít allow that kind of attitude on here. Someone could get their feelings hurt and need to use Rig Wrenchís cry closet.
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Flipping your mirrors up when you don't tow? That serves no purpose other than to let me know that you are a douche, from a distance.
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Old 05-15-2018, 09:31 PM   #17302
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Originally Posted by biggy238 View Post
All I'm saying is who is actually doing to show that X setup is in peak efficiency at 1:1? It is (very well put) arbitrary.

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All most people do is change wheels/housings and drive. Pressures change and temps change and you decide what works for you.
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Flipping your mirrors up when you don't tow? That serves no purpose other than to let me know that you are a douche, from a distance.
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Old 05-16-2018, 01:22 AM   #17303
BRE
 
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Cause Iím bored...
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Rick
07 Dodge 3500 - Tow mirrors, silencer ring MIA, Spectra air filter.
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Originally Posted by jfaulkner View Post
There really is nothing better than OEM. That goes for anything from turbos to boobs.
RIP Dex KCCO
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Old 05-16-2018, 05:34 AM   #17304
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Cause Iím bored...
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I sure do love that truck!
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Old 05-16-2018, 06:57 AM   #17305
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Cause Iím bored...
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Lol reefer life, bored but well rested.
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Flipping your mirrors up when you don't tow? That serves no purpose other than to let me know that you are a douche, from a distance.
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Old 05-16-2018, 08:56 AM   #17306
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chevota84 View Post
I get that, but we're using it to monitor a setup that's in use, not engineering a turbo from scratch. Since you rarely see under 1:1 at wot we should able to use that number as an estimate of overall effeciency even though it won't cover every eventuality. You've seen a lot more turbos than I ever will; when would a 2:1 setup be efficient and a 1:1 wouldn't be?

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It is honestly such an arbitrary number that it depends entirely on what you are doing, what wheels they are, what you are after with the truck, etc... For instance: Let's take an HX60 into account. In a scenario where the front side of the thrust is getting trashed consistently with 2:1 on an over the road application you want to get drive pressure down for pure reliability. Obviously the turbine forces are so far outweighing the compressor side that it is breaking through the oil film on the bearing and trashing it. The same turbo in a competition setting you WANT that high drive pressure in most cases to keep the thing lit at the end of the track. OR look at it this way: let's say that 2:1 drive is with a 3.4 turbine vs a 3.6. The 3.4 may not trash the thrust with 2:1 as opposed to a 3.6 as the 3.4 may apply less thrust load than the 3.6 with the same drive pressures. The next thing you have to think about and take into account is why the drive pressure is there. Is it because you are physically choking it with too small of a turbine side or is it because you are requiring so much shaft hp to maintain the demands of the compressor side (be it side or pressure or both) that it just takes that much drive pressure to achieve your goals?

Long story short: drive pressure is for tuning a setup if you know the parameters you are after. Past that don't worry about it unless you have either reliability issues or issues staying on top of the turbo.
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Old 05-16-2018, 10:33 AM   #17307
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Originally Posted by jfaulkner View Post
Lol reefer life, bored but well rested.


Well rested... hilarious


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07 Dodge 3500 - Tow mirrors, silencer ring MIA, Spectra air filter.
Quote:
Originally Posted by jfaulkner View Post
There really is nothing better than OEM. That goes for anything from turbos to boobs.
RIP Dex KCCO
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Old 05-16-2018, 11:32 AM   #17308
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Well rested... hilarious


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Whete is that ? Side of a mountain? Underground?
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Old 05-16-2018, 01:12 PM   #17309
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Whete is that ? Side of a mountain? Underground?


Underground


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07 Dodge 3500 - Tow mirrors, silencer ring MIA, Spectra air filter.
Quote:
Originally Posted by jfaulkner View Post
There really is nothing better than OEM. That goes for anything from turbos to boobs.
RIP Dex KCCO
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Old 05-16-2018, 01:45 PM   #17310
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zfaylor View Post
It is honestly such an arbitrary number that it depends entirely on what you are doing, what wheels they are, what you are after with the truck, etc... For instance: Let's take an HX60 into account. In a scenario where the front side of the thrust is getting trashed consistently with 2:1 on an over the road application you want to get drive pressure down for pure reliability. Obviously the turbine forces are so far outweighing the compressor side that it is breaking through the oil film on the bearing and trashing it. The same turbo in a competition setting you WANT that high drive pressure in most cases to keep the thing lit at the end of the track. OR look at it this way: let's say that 2:1 drive is with a 3.4 turbine vs a 3.6. The 3.4 may not trash the thrust with 2:1 as opposed to a 3.6 as the 3.4 may apply less thrust load than the 3.6 with the same drive pressures. The next thing you have to think about and take into account is why the drive pressure is there. Is it because you are physically choking it with too small of a turbine side or is it because you are requiring so much shaft hp to maintain the demands of the compressor side (be it side or pressure or both) that it just takes that much drive pressure to achieve your goals?

Long story short: drive pressure is for tuning a setup if you know the parameters you are after. Past that don't worry about it unless you have either reliability issues or issues staying on top of the turbo.
Mr. Zfaylor lets this nugget slide past the filter. Thanks!

So in the HX60 context, on the street you want low drive pressure for reliability, but competition you want high drive pressure to generate enough shaft HP to spin the compressor where you want it. But having too small a turbine side and the resulting high drive pressure is something completely different.
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Last edited by allan5oh; 05-16-2018 at 01:52 PM.
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Old 05-16-2018, 05:58 PM   #17311
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Ok kw ladies. 2011 w900 with an sdp, been deleted by deisel spec I believe, I dont think that has anything to do with this though. On a hard pull it will be fine for a bit, but after a good minute or soo off 100% torque load it will start to stumble then the boost and oil psi gage will drop to 0. Its still makes boost and oil pressure. But the gages read 0. Let up on the throttle for a bit and it goes back to normal. Ideas??
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Old 05-16-2018, 06:32 PM   #17312
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Ok kw ladies. 2011 w900 with an sdp, been deleted by deisel spec I believe, I dont think that has anything to do with this though. On a hard pull it will be fine for a bit, but after a good minute or soo off 100% torque load it will start to stumble then the boost and oil psi gage will drop to 0. Its still makes boost and oil pressure. But the gages read 0. Let up on the throttle for a bit and it goes back to normal. Ideas??


So itís heat related.
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Flipping your mirrors up when you don't tow? That serves no purpose other than to let me know that you are a douche, from a distance.
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Old 05-16-2018, 06:37 PM   #17313
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So itís heat related.
Not sure. I miss spoke a little. The gages will mess up before the stumble. Its gotta be pullin quite a while before the stumble. Coolant never gets outa sight.
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Old 05-16-2018, 07:00 PM   #17314
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You drive it with ET and see if it follows the dash?

Could it be the ecm isnít tuned correctly for the turbos? Iíve heard that can happen but usually only in Europe.
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Flipping your mirrors up when you don't tow? That serves no purpose other than to let me know that you are a douche, from a distance.
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Old 05-16-2018, 07:01 PM   #17315
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Not sure. I miss spoke a little. The gages will mess up before the stumble. Its gotta be pullin quite a while before the stumble. Coolant never gets outa sight.


Well I mean when the ecm/sensors are hot it stubbles, when they cool it comes back.
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Flipping your mirrors up when you don't tow? That serves no purpose other than to let me know that you are a douche, from a distance.
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Old 05-16-2018, 07:23 PM   #17316
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Well I mean when the ecm/sensors are hot it stubbles, when they cool it comes back.
Still registers in et. Im thinkin a couple seperate issues. Not enough time with it to narrow down the issues
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Old 05-16-2018, 07:40 PM   #17317
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BRE,
Clean rig. Looks awesome
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Old 05-16-2018, 07:52 PM   #17318
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Still registers in et. Im thinkin a couple seperate issues. Not enough time with it to narrow down the issues


Sounds like another datalink issue.
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Old 05-16-2018, 08:12 PM   #17319
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No connection issues with et. But ill start diggin again when i can get my hands on it for longer
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Old 05-16-2018, 08:38 PM   #17320
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No connection issues with et. But ill start diggin again when i can get my hands on it for longer


Well the dash plug uses that j1922 to connect to the engine. With a glider the dash will work but you canít connect to the engine without the j1922 jumper harness. So just because ET will connect the dash may not.
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