Injection pump nut torque

zstroken

zstroken

For $$$ your name here
I think the manual calls for 140 ft/lbs, anybody going over that?

How much? I am pretty sure my timing slipped, cause I can't get it above 1300 rpm without it popping terribly.
 
Sounds like timing to me.
My manual says 122 ft lbs, but as Chris said, 169 (170) is the ticket.
 
Hmm maybe that was my problem, I was thinking 142 or something like that. I have a new adjustable gear to put on, but I need to modify my timing cover to be able to adjust it. So I am thinking I will try to retime it, and torque it back down and run it, then I have several weeks between pulls to get the front torn apart.
 
Signature600 said:
Really...I could have sworn the original spec was 144, then they revised it to 169.

Wonder where I read that?
Chris:bang
Click to expand...

Well.... the manual I have on my desk covers 91-94 Certification levels, So it is quite possible that a newer manual my have an updated torque. No doubt that 122 or 144 isn't gonna cut it however it's sliced.
 
I think the inline pumps require more umph to move, hence the higher torque rating. Well it is going to get cleaned up, and retorqued to 170 with a new lock washer. Thanks
 
Here Dan for the less fortunate, 160 Ft-Lbs then add 5 Ft-Lbs then add 5 Ft-Lbs then add 5 Ft-Lbs so the ending torque value is 175 Ft-Lbs. :hehe: Just kiddin Danny Boy.
Brandon
 
No problem,
My question is wouldn't it be better to just take it straight to the 175? As static friction coefficient is higher than dynamic, so the extra torque is going to break the nut loose, not actually tightening it down. I could see loosening the nut, and then bumping the torque wrench up 5lbs more each time. It is the same idea as retorquing the studs. I wander about putting some ARP moly on the threads and going to the 165 range.
 
Is the adjustable gear you are talking about make it so you can adjust the timing easier? If so where does a guy get one and how much was it?
 
Yes it is to allow easier timing adjustments, but you need to either replace your front cover, or modify it, as the bolts have about a 4" spread on the adjustment. Plus it is keyed to keep it from moving on the pump shaft.
 
when we had the front cover off we took some 1500g sand paper and sanded the shaft and the inside of the gear ,, just gives it a little more tooth ,,, but run mine up to 180tg
 
Could either of you guys talk more about the new adj. gear? You say its keyed, i cant remeber but i dont think the pump shafts already cut for a key is it? if not it would require pump removal and to be keyed correct? That would be a pain, and what kind of modifying of the cover is required, if it was much i cant see being able to reuse the oil fill and if thats the case what do you do to cover it? Thanks so much for some further details on this, many of us have had timing slip issues and thier no fun! My maual says 144 and it flat wont work there at all, ive replaced the washer and torq.ed all i could get w/o holding the crank and it has not slipped YET since. Im quessing thats not much over 170 ft lbs. if any though because my engine started to turn over right at my torq wrenches max of 150 and i would turn it till i hit the comp. stroke of another cyl. and it would allow me a touch more a couple of times. Ryan
 
Ya, but from what it seems if it ever slips once it will slip easier the next time? When i did mine i believe it was the first time it had ever been touched, i cleaned with carb cleaner and dried the shaft well and torq.ed to the books 144 and it sliped the very first time the pedal hit the floor. Then 3 maybe 4 more times doing the same but applying more torq. each time. Finally this last time i cleaned it and put some red lock tight and tightened the piss out of it, knock on wood it has not slipped but i have no confidence in retiming it at say the track or away from the shop. If it slips again i will be replacing the gear for sure... Ryan
 
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