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Old 07-09-2016, 12:30 PM   #1
blackcloudCTD95
 
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Cant seem to get the truck dialed in

I bought my brothers 98 quadcab. I built it with his money Hahah the first set up was 5x12 and a 62 ps. It was good until the converter locked up and it would bark.until you let your foot out. Now it has 5x14 191's 64.5/73/14 and a benched pump. 22° 4k studs valve springs.#8 or 10 plate I forget.

Now to the problem. I can't seem to get it to spool right in tc lock up and taking off from a red light it puffs smoke not thick but a puff here and there until your up to speed. If you back out on pre boost fuel it's a slug. We tuned the afc with shop air at 43psi

The only thing i can think of is when he had his trans built. They sent the convert off to be gone through and they said they tightened it up ( fti in Deland fl) it's super low 1200 r stall speed how much will that effect spool? I know on my old 6.0 when I had my 66mm non vgt the stall was 2k ish should i re stall the converter back to factory 1800? Or go to 2k .
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Old 07-10-2016, 01:55 AM   #2
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Stall speed is killing your spool-up, big time! You can sorta compensate by making that truck a smokey pig on the bottom end and make it actually come up on boost as you pull away from a stop light... blacking out the world. But it will be hard to build boost at the line if you want to race. Loosen that converter to stock stall around 1800 and it'll be a much faster and easier tuning project. Plus you'll be able to do boosted launches at the track and have fun with the truck.
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Old 07-10-2016, 04:33 PM   #3
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If I mash it from stop oh yeah it will smoke. But normal person driving it puffs. Stop light to light I will make 10psi and clean up the smoke and if you roll into it snap your finger and your at 50. And it's clean.

I couldn't race this thing if I wanted to lol the min the convert locks it barks out the I take until you take your foot out. You can't power break because it builds 5psi and that's all she wrote. I've considered re stalling it back to factory. But I got to thinking about the size of the turbine wheel.73/80. If I went from the 64.5/73 to a 64.5/68. How much would that effect spool?

Even with the phatshaft 62/71 it would bark out the intake. When the converter locked that's what got me thinking about the wheel size
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Old 07-10-2016, 08:11 PM   #4
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I don't think changing the whee size will effect spoil as much as your hoping for. But it will I'll be top end power. I would go back to stock stall personally. I run a 75mm single with an 83 turbine and can build 40-50psi staging with my converter (V10 stall around 2400 I believe). I used to have a 1600 stall Goerend triple disk in it and it was night and day driving manners after the swap to the DPC 4 disk


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Old 07-10-2016, 09:04 PM   #5
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I have spent half of the afternoon reading up on this fueling/ turbo set up. I see the sxe series hit off well in the cummins world. But a lot of guys are running the .7 w.g housing on the 64.5/73 turbo I have a 14cm non gate.

Above and beyond that I read up on converter stall what would be a good stall speed? The first one was too loose and you had to be in it to win it to get it to make power and I believe that was 300r lower then factory. When the trans was rebuilt my brother sent the converter out to have it gone through and re stalled they lowered it to 1200-1300 . it now has great low end power but I always put it in natural at lights because it wants to go..

I would think a factory stall or a 1500r stall will work wouldn't it?
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Old 07-10-2016, 09:06 PM   #6
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I have a fti tripple disc. If I'm in 3rd gear and I lock it up say 10-15 psi it falls on its face hard.
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Old 07-10-2016, 10:37 PM   #7
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a looser converter will help spool, but the larger possible RPM drop between lock and unlock can make that shift into lockup lug the engine if youre not ready for it. Can you delay the shift into lockup, or change your effective gearing via axles and tires to get more torque advantage?
The reason for the weird tuning in my .sig is because I need to drive this thing in stop and go a lot, and got tired of smoking people out without meaning to.
lower timing, less aggressive cam profile and wider injector pattern seem to help with the low end, but the top end is not so good. Falls on its face around 80mph.
higher static compression or something that makes air right off the line like a supercharger would probably help, but I dont have the $$$ to mess with it.
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Old 07-11-2016, 07:41 AM   #8
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Why are you so against restalling the converter?
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Old 07-11-2016, 08:00 AM   #9
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Why are you so against restalling the converter?


I'm not.. I just don't want to go too loose with it and hate the driveability of it. What's factory? 2100? 1900? I know fire punk uses 1950 stall. The first fti was 2-300 lower then factory and it sucked... What ever they re stalled it to is nice... If you have a stock charger. I want to say it's like 1300 I have to call to find out
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Old 07-11-2016, 08:22 AM   #10
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Re-gear, re-stall, or run 20" tires. Aside from that you can match the power adders to the transmission. ie. go back to a closer to stock turbo and less fuel. It is a package deal. Cannot expect smoke free performance with a mechanical truck and the combination you have. A higher flowing turbo has to have somewhere to put the air. If the engine cannot spin quick enough to consumer the air you will have a surging pig of a truck.
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Old 07-11-2016, 08:29 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blackcloudCTD95 View Post
I'm not.. I just don't want to go too loose with it and hate the driveability of it. What's factory? 2100? 1900? I know fire punk uses 1950 stall. The first fti was 2-300 lower then factory and it sucked... What ever they re stalled it to is nice... If you have a stock charger. I want to say it's like 1300 I have to call to find out
Most seem to say around 2200rpm for factory stall. I've ran lower stall and had similar findings with small turbos. Once I went to larger stuff it sucked. I may be pulling my current converter out and going to a v10 stall. Can't seem to get on top of my current combo at the line. Not saying yours needs to be that loose either.
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Old 07-11-2016, 10:52 PM   #12
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Re-gear, re-stall, or run 20" tires. Aside from that you can match the power adders to the transmission. ie. go back to a closer to stock turbo and less fuel. It is a package deal. Cannot expect smoke free performance with a mechanical truck and the combination you have. A higher flowing turbo has to have somewhere to put the air. If the engine cannot spin quick enough to consumer the air you will have a surging pig of a truck.
I know it can't be smokeless.. My main issue is the drive pressure loss going into tc lock up. It will bark and surge and I can't tune it out. I have it driveable so it doesn't do it as bad but I'm only running about 1/4 fuel.
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Old 07-11-2016, 10:56 PM   #13
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I talked to a few people today some say 1900 some say 1950. I called fti today and looked up what my brother had done the first converter was 1700 ( didn't really do anything until 1800ish.) this one in the truck now is a 1300 . he suggested 1600. But will that still be too low?

Is there some sort of equation for axle ratio plus tire size = you should run this stall?
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Old 07-11-2016, 11:04 PM   #14
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Mine does this when it hits OD and lockup too. Only way to avoid it is to make sure lockup occurs at a higher RPM when the engine can manage the extra load.
Adjust the TPS voltage a little higher and see if that helps? Aside from a stand alone controller theres not much else you can do besides making the shift manual.
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Old 07-12-2016, 06:21 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blackcloudCTD95 View Post
I talked to a few people today some say 1900 some say 1950. I called fti today and looked up what my brother had done the first converter was 1700 ( didn't really do anything until 1800ish.) this one in the truck now is a 1300 . he suggested 1600. But will that still be too low?

Is there some sort of equation for axle ratio plus tire size = you should run this stall?
I wouldn't get a converter below stock stall. Quiz the guy you are speaking with and ask for a reasonable explanation for his suggestion. I am not suggesting you be a dik obviously but a lot of people have no rhyme or reason for the things they sell and to this point what they have sold you is not correct.

There is no equation really. With 3:55s and anything over stock on the turbo I would stick with stock stall. 4:10s you can get away with a tighter stall longer. Start running very big singles and you start getting into much higher stalls.
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Old 07-13-2016, 09:41 PM   #16
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I spoke with the guys at gorend and they got me set up with the right unit. Its not that my fti isn't good.. Because it is they just don't specalize in diesels. They don't experiment with different fin counts or angles of fin cuts etc.
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Old 07-16-2016, 11:45 AM   #17
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What converter did they set you up with?

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Old 07-16-2016, 12:16 PM   #18
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They set me up with a 15ss converter same one I had in my old 95 dodge with had 370's 24* laser cuts 62/65 it worked well
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Old 07-16-2016, 12:18 PM   #19
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Your truck looks like mine
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File Type: jpg received_1327235680637878.jpg (73.4 KB, 0 views)
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Old 07-16-2016, 12:29 PM   #20
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I will say i can't find a .70 t3 wg hx 40 housing for this think. Tho I know guys are running them on forums
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