2011 F250 severe oil leak above Crank Pulley

biggy238

biggy238

Active member
My wife's brother in law just picked up a SCSB with 207k and it's bleeding to death from something above the crank. It looks to me from Google images that it's likely the vacuum pump.

How much time are we talking to access this thing, is it a throw away and get a new one or reseal it and reinstall?
I'm assuming it's not ruptured and the threads that attach it aren't damaged.
Truck has a level/lift and I didn't feel like climbing to really inspect it. I'm thinking about getting my bore scope and feeding down in there tomorrow after work.

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Also, this thing has a tune with no programmer. Is this a case of the usual, the controller has to be nuked to get it back to stock and then reflashed, or can it be flashed over with another tune?

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Vacuum pump is the likely culprit. It is paper gasket iirc. Not awful to get at. If you can make thru the fan that saves a bunch of time. Otherwise you know the deal with the fan clutch...

Now what you should check with that mileage, is whether the valley of the engine is full. Very common in that year to have the turbo oil feed line leak, and sometimes pedestal gaskets.

For the tuning, it really depends what it was tuned with. If it was with Spartan, you can likely recover the pcm but will need to replace the TCM. With any other tuner, I can maybe help you with some workarounds thru private message. Have you checked under the dash to see if there is any cables or modules connected to the one port area?
 
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If you have ForScan you can flash the asbuilt to the PCM/TCM then start over.

Some devices come with a stock tune that can be flashed on first, then a custom tune after.
 
sootie said:
Vacuum pump is the likely culprit. It is paper gasket iirc. Not awful to get at. If you can make thru the fan that saves a bunch of time. Otherwise you know the deal with the fan clutch...

Now what you should check with that mileage, is whether the valley of the engine is full. Very common in that year to have the turbo oil feed line leak, and sometimes pedestal gaskets.

For the tuning, it really depends what it was tuned with. If it was with Spartan, you can likely recover the pcm but will need to replace the TCM. With any other tuner, I can maybe help you with some workarounds thru private message. Have you checked under the dash to see if there is any cables or modules connected to the one port area?
Click to expand...
I tried to look from the top down at the valley. At first glance it looks like the oil starts below the valley in the front. I will try to get better eyes on it. I will also check for cabling under the dash. Other than a test drive to check the vibration during braking and a quick glance at the oil leak, I was freezing my ass off.
Something he did notice was that it dumped a large puddle last night over the course of an hour, but the leak seems to be slower now.

I'm low key jealous because it has all the bells and whistles my 2010 doesn't have, dual climate, upfitter switches, sunroof.



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Cowboys4Christ said:
If you have ForScan you can flash the asbuilt to the PCM/TCM then start over.

Some devices come with a stock tune that can be flashed on first, then a custom tune after.
Click to expand...
I have forscan (why am I a child) and I can get the as-built if the links still work.

I was hoping to hook to it and see what all is available anyway since that was the first year the Superduty really got exposed in forscan

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He sent me this. Dark puddle in the center is from last night. I assume the others are from it as well because their other vehicles don't leak.
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Well. That went to shit.
I knew there had to be something to this for the vacuum pump to be leaking oil.
This engine had been out of the truck. Probably not the original. The bottom most bolts for the pump was stripped. I found a socket cap screw and ran into the hole and it had enough threads to hold. I dug around and found two screws that were the same threads but longer length. They had come out of my truck but I don't remember what from.

Anyway, I put the pump in and try to bring one of the three bolts that still had threads stripped out before it got anywhere near torque. I'm going to go get four screws long enough to make studs out of and install them with a dab of JB weld to make sure this isn't a future issue.

I also pressure tested the cooling system. It bled out in his driveway but then held 18psi i
With no drips in my shop. I looked everything over and found traces of coolant running down the block just behind the gear housing. I disconnected the pressure regulator so we could push the truck all the way inside, no pressure on the system at all, and it proceeds to bleed out down both sides of the gear case. I can't really tell what the origin is, but it looks like it has two water pumps?

While I was looking for the coolant leak, I found harnesses unbolted, an oil pan bolt backed out and riding on the hose underneath it, the fresh air tube for the air cleaner is gone and the filter is nasty as hell from the oil circulating through the engine compartment.

Anyway, let me know what I'm looking at for the coolant leaks. I was having trouble getting line of sight on whatever the source is with a mirror.

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I’m assuming we’re talking about a 6.7L diesel?

Yes, dual water pumps.

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Thank you Scott. I was worn out last night when I posted that and not about to go searching. Clicked off 12000 steps between work and this ford.

It looks like the coolant is running down the block behind the gear case, originating at the same height of both water pumps. I may take my bore scope to it today to try and locate.

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biggy238 said:
Well. That went to shit.
I knew there had to be something to this for the vacuum pump to be leaking oil.
This engine had been out of the truck. Probably not the original. The bottom most bolts for the pump was stripped. I found a socket cap screw and ran into the hole and it had enough threads to hold. I dug around and found two screws that were the same threads but longer length. They had come out of my truck but I don't remember what from.

Anyway, I put the pump in and try to bring one of the three bolts that still had threads stripped out before it got anywhere near torque. I'm going to go get four screws long enough to make studs out of and install them with a dab of JB weld to make sure this isn't a future issue.

I also pressure tested the cooling system. It bled out in his driveway but then held 18psi i
With no drips in my shop. I looked everything over and found traces of coolant running down the block just behind the gear housing. I disconnected the pressure regulator so we could push the truck all the way inside, no pressure on the system at all, and it proceeds to bleed out down both sides of the gear case. I can't really tell what the origin is, but it looks like it has two water pumps?

While I was looking for the coolant leak, I found harnesses unbolted, an oil pan bolt backed out and riding on the hose underneath it, the fresh air tube for the air cleaner is gone and the filter is nasty as hell from the oil circulating through the engine compartment.

Anyway, let me know what I'm looking at for the coolant leaks. I was having trouble getting line of sight on whatever the source is with a mirror.

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Click to expand...
Quite a few of these trucks left the factory without the vac pump bolts properly torqued.
 
Waiting on epoxy to dry. Studs made out of 10.9 bolts. Cleaned the threads (what was left of them) with brake cleaner. Installed the pump loosely and ran one bolt in to full depth and snugged it. Ran up two jamb nuts to get depth plus enough protrusion to clear the new nuts. Pulled it off and cut the four bolts into studs and bevelled the cut ends. Applied 3M epoxy (the evil shit that will tear steel if it's prepped right) and torqued the studs into the bores.
I'm letting it cure right now. Hoping it will hold full torque in a few hours.
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