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Dodge Competition and Performance General Dodge Competition and Performance Discussion |
02-01-2011, 02:16 AM
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#1
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Name: smoken02
Title: Too Much Time
Status: Not Here
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Streator, Illinois
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Posts: 1,412
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Tappet removal question
I have searched this subject quite a bit. I have found some good write up's on cam and tappet removal and replacement. In everything I have read. I see the tappets pulled from the front of the block through the cam bore. Is this easier than pulling the tappet cover? With the tappet cover removed. Does this allow the tappets to be removed through the side of the block? My cylinder head is off right now. The engine is still in the truck. Im assuming I would have to pull the vp. That wouldnt be to tough considering its all apart anyway. Whats my best bet here?
__________________
14' Cummins C/C DRW 3500 4x4 G56
94’ Reg Cab 4x4 Just Rollin
R.I.P
02 Dodge QC/SB 4x4, Drag Comp,BD RAD, ARP studs, DDP HRVP44, HTT 62/71/14,SDX 200's,Killer B, Goerend trans,Billet input shaft, Billet Flexplate, AirdogII 200gph pump
13.16 @ 104mph 1/4 mile
Aaron
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02-01-2011, 02:59 AM
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#2
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Name: Tate
Title: What?
Status: Not Here
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Airdrie, Alberta
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Posts: 3,419
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Can't pull them through the side. The bottom is a much larger diameter than the body, so you can't pull them up through the block like a typical gas engine. Out the bottom is the only way.
__________________
'98 3500 2wd, 24v, 5 spd, p-pumped
'98 2500 4wd, 12v, 6 spd, VP'd
'02 VW Jetta, 5 spd.
My p-pump conversion pics
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02-01-2011, 03:07 AM
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#3
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Name: kino_fab
Title: KTPA Tech Official
Status: Not Here
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Glasgow, Ky
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Posts: 2,244
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The tappets will not come out from the tappet cover. You can only see teh top of the tappets above the tappet bores. The 2 main ways of changing them is with the windowed pipe, baling wire, and a small magnet to fit into the tappets. Although this method can be very frustrating at times, and if you drop one inside the engine, the oil pan will have to come off to retreive it. Although if you are by yourself, this will probably be the easiest method.
Another way would be to raise the engine from its motor mounts and remove the oil pan. To do this with the block adapter in place, the pan will drop down just low enough to clear the block adapter once you have the engine raised out of its motor mounts. In some cases though you will have to remove the oil pump pick up tube in order to pull the pan completely out. Once the pan is removed you can drop the engine back down into its motor mounts for saftey reasons (thats just me though because of bad luck with heavy things falling). This will allow you to directly place the tappets into the engine yourself from underneith the truck, but you will need someone up top to place the wood dowl pins, hose clamps, zip ties, or what ever method you use to hold the tappets in place.
__________________
04.5 3500 daily driver/ex-sled puller - On the operating table
Tech Official for:
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02-01-2011, 07:31 AM
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#4
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Name: smoken02
Title: Too Much Time
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Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Streator, Illinois
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Posts: 1,412
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Ok, Thanks guys. I wasnt sure exactly what was behind the tappet cover.
__________________
14' Cummins C/C DRW 3500 4x4 G56
94’ Reg Cab 4x4 Just Rollin
R.I.P
02 Dodge QC/SB 4x4, Drag Comp,BD RAD, ARP studs, DDP HRVP44, HTT 62/71/14,SDX 200's,Killer B, Goerend trans,Billet input shaft, Billet Flexplate, AirdogII 200gph pump
13.16 @ 104mph 1/4 mile
Aaron
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02-01-2011, 09:38 AM
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#5
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Name: gunracer1
Title: Too Much Time
Status: Not Here
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: just north of lake weatherford, tx
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Posts: 2,068
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I would just pull the motor and flip it over. But that's just me.
__________________
98 3500 4x4 quad 12v 5 speed,98 quad 4x4 12v stock sold, and a 95 reg cab getting triples.97 dually 4x4,6 speed over 500 rwhp, sold, 98 3/4 ton short bed reg cab, over 500 rwhp, sold. 98 quad 5 speed sold and the wife has a little dmax.
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02-01-2011, 09:47 AM
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#6
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Name: LReiff
Title: The Antistock
Status: Not Here
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Newburg, PA
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Posts: 9,201
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The tappet cover on a B-series Cummins is only good for one thing, leaking oil.
__________________
Lee
Quote:
Originally Posted by 4x4dually
If anyone thinks the internet is serious they should seriously log off and burn their laptop.
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02-01-2011, 10:05 AM
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#7
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Name: smoken02
Title: Too Much Time
Status: Not Here
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Streator, Illinois
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Posts: 1,412
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LReiff
The tappet cover on a B-series Cummins is only good for one thing, leaking oil.
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Thats a good reason for me not to even touch it then. I have bad luck with seals.
I would love to pull the engine. If I do that though I will end up doing a full on cummins build. I know me too well. It will be a year before it runs again then.
__________________
14' Cummins C/C DRW 3500 4x4 G56
94’ Reg Cab 4x4 Just Rollin
R.I.P
02 Dodge QC/SB 4x4, Drag Comp,BD RAD, ARP studs, DDP HRVP44, HTT 62/71/14,SDX 200's,Killer B, Goerend trans,Billet input shaft, Billet Flexplate, AirdogII 200gph pump
13.16 @ 104mph 1/4 mile
Aaron
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02-01-2011, 10:28 AM
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#8
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Name: YOUNG GUNS15
Title: Im AWESOME!!!!
Status: Not Here
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Utah
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Posts: 7,346
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I dropped a tappet and said screw it, and i pulled the motor. Turned out I had other issues with rod bearings and oil squirters so if your that far might as well pull it and put it on an engine stand upside down.
__________________
Spence
-1994 4x4 12 valve 13mm, single 475 748/1292 Fuel 872/1470 N2O
-2005 4x4 12 valve CCSB 3rd gen '12-rail' 280hp
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02-01-2011, 10:52 AM
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#9
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Name: ETH/DEE
Title: Fick mich
Status: Not Here
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: CT
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Posts: 835
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The last time I replaced a cam/tappets I simply slid the tappet down the pipe with a long magnet and then grabbed the tappet with the wooden dowel. None of ball/magnet and string nonsense like you see in some write ups.
__________________
2002 QCSB P7100 24V
Colt
Fuelab
Sun Coast
II
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02-01-2011, 02:06 PM
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#10
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Name: LReiff
Title: The Antistock
Status: Not Here
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Newburg, PA
Member`s Gallery
Posts: 9,201
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ETH/DEE
The last time I replaced a cam/tappets I simply slid the tappet down the pipe with a long magnet and then grabbed the tappet with the wooden dowel. None of ball/magnet and string nonsense like you see in some write ups.
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You did this on cylinder #6 with the engine installed in a '94+ dodge ram?
__________________
Lee
Quote:
Originally Posted by 4x4dually
If anyone thinks the internet is serious they should seriously log off and burn their laptop.
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02-01-2011, 02:10 PM
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#11
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Name: smoken02
Title: Too Much Time
Status: Not Here
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Streator, Illinois
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Posts: 1,412
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Is this easier to do with the head off? Or is it a pain either way?
__________________
14' Cummins C/C DRW 3500 4x4 G56
94’ Reg Cab 4x4 Just Rollin
R.I.P
02 Dodge QC/SB 4x4, Drag Comp,BD RAD, ARP studs, DDP HRVP44, HTT 62/71/14,SDX 200's,Killer B, Goerend trans,Billet input shaft, Billet Flexplate, AirdogII 200gph pump
13.16 @ 104mph 1/4 mile
Aaron
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02-01-2011, 02:55 PM
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#12
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Name: Tate
Title: What?
Status: Not Here
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Airdrie, Alberta
Member`s Gallery
Posts: 3,419
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Quote:
Originally Posted by smoken02
Is this easier to do with the head off? Or is it a pain either way?
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The head really makes no difference. The hard part for me (and my friend that was giving me a hand) was getting the tappets stood up in the tray so I could stab it with the dowel straight enough to pull it through the tappet bore. Of course, we started on #6 cylinder, so our learning curve as a bit long. By the end we had it down to about 2 minutes a tappet from lubing it up, to having it secured on the end of the dowel in the bore. Long narrow magnets and the pump/tappet cover off made a big difference.
__________________
'98 3500 2wd, 24v, 5 spd, p-pumped
'98 2500 4wd, 12v, 6 spd, VP'd
'02 VW Jetta, 5 spd.
My p-pump conversion pics
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