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7.3 Powerstroke 99-03 Powerstroke Discussion

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Old 01-30-2017, 11:47 PM   #21
Bersaglieri
 
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Malibu: I also looked very hard a 2500 Suburbans from 01 to 2010 with the end game buildibg a Duraburb. However I dislike the IFS front end and there is certainly more room in an Excursion. Plus the time/cost of the swap done right. I needed something that was ready for a trip the day after I tagged it. If I saw a nice black or green Duraburb on the way to get this Excursion I doubt there would be a Ford in my driveway today

Edit: Nothing against Malibu, but that is the reason I didn't want another GM gas SUV. After 200k alot needs replaced. We are stacking miles on a Tahoe and it just doesn't add up for me compared to a diesel. No vehicle is immune to problems, but for me it seems like this is the right direction to go.

zstroken: Fortunately..or maybe unfortunately, I am still "Young, Dumb, and full of cum."
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Old 01-31-2017, 01:03 AM   #22
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Do you mind sharing what you paid for it? I may be in the market soon if the wife gets her way.
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Old 01-31-2017, 07:30 AM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bersaglieri View Post
What would you estimate the cost of this coil front end conversion, upgraded rear setup? I feel like it might be better to convert a newer F250/F350 for the amount of work involved.

That just depends on what you can find the parts or donor chassis for.
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Old 01-31-2017, 07:46 AM   #24
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Originally Posted by npe3484 View Post
Do you mind sharing what you paid for it? I may be in the market soon if the wife gets her way.
I've seen "spotless" or low mile ones for $20k, but most clean title 7.3l Excursions over 150,000 miles go between 10 and 15k depending on condition. Salvage or orher issues come in below that. People give away 6.0l and V10 versions. I could have had quite a few real nice 6.0s for under 8k.
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Old 01-31-2017, 07:59 AM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bersaglieri View Post
Malibu: I also looked very hard a 2500 Suburbans from 01 to 2010 with the end game buildibg a Duraburb. However I dislike the IFS front end and there is certainly more room in an Excursion. Plus the time/cost of the swap done right. I needed something that was ready for a trip the day after I tagged it. If I saw a nice black or green Duraburb on the way to get this Excursion I doubt there would be a Ford in my driveway today

Edit: Nothing against Malibu, but that is the reason I didn't want another GM gas SUV. After 200k alot needs replaced. We are stacking miles on a Tahoe and it just doesn't add up for me compared to a diesel. No vehicle is immune to problems, but for me it seems like this is the right direction to go.

zstroken: Fortunately..or maybe unfortunately, I am still "Young, Dumb, and full of cum."
I went in knowing alot had been neglected and needed to be replaced/rebuilt.. original sale add was "$700 engine problems"

Good luck
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Old 01-31-2017, 09:40 AM   #26
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Originally Posted by malibu795 View Post
I went in knowing alot had been neglected and needed to be replaced/rebuilt.. original sale add was "$700 engine problems"

Good luck
Thanks. If anyone likes a challenge, it's you friend. If my situation allowed for a suburban project like that I would have gladly done what you are doing. But for the number of miles I put on an SUV in year it has to be a diesel. I hope to follow your project thread.
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Old 01-31-2017, 09:42 AM   #27
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Brad: The coil swap might be best, but for now I will have to use bandaids instead of organ transplants.
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Old 01-31-2017, 10:20 AM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bersaglieri View Post
Thanks. If anyone likes a challenge, it's you friend. If my situation allowed for a suburban project like that I would have gladly done what you are doing. But for the number of miles I put on an SUV in year it has to be a diesel. I hope to follow your project thread.
I haven't done enough to make a thread, yet, mainly get it mechinally sound enough to be an A-B possibly C vehicle, I can use to get parts etc... The FL60 mut gets attention First..
Which hopefully markets pickup quicker than expected with trump rolling excessive EO related regs back
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Old 10-23-2017, 08:41 AM   #29
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Old 10-23-2017, 10:08 PM   #30
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Dead thread is alive
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Old 02-14-2018, 12:54 AM   #31
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I guess it's time for a one year update?! Let's see if I can remember it all

Performance

K&N Panel Filter - Read on almost all online sites that putting a K&N filter on your Powerstroke will cause total failure of everything in the engine bay. Paper one was bad, so I went with this...an engine failure means a Cummins swap so...

PHP Hydra Chip from Full Force - It came with 7-8 tunes. Stock, low idle, high idle, tow heavy, tow light, economy, performance, hot performance. I leave it on the "Economy" for the wife, and I run 7 "Performance" when I drive. Woke the truck up a lot, shifts are firmer, I only have the tunes that were preloaded by Full Force. Actually had to get a second chip after the first one conflicted with the anti-theft. Full Force was great on getting me a new one out quick.

3.5" Straight pipe - Anymore I like the factory exhaust on low power daily drivers. Since it seems everyone else likes 10" tips on a 4" exhaust, I just went in the other direction. I straight piped the stock exhaust, it gave it a cackle but it also helped with MPG with the 265/75/16's. We got low 20's with that setup.

Suspension

Immediately I could notice how scary this thing was on curvy country roads. Bad on curves, bad on the highway, made my Dodge with "Alloversteering" seem like a Corvette. So I ignored the forums which said to call some guy who wants to sell you a whole kit with his special blend of wheels, tires, lift springs, shocks, etc thousands of dollars package. He hold me he was the only one who knew how to make them safe, yadda yadda. I also ignored Brad since I didn't want to get into axle swaps.

My goal here was to vastly improve handling and safety of the truck without lifting it a lot. Local spring shops, V/B/X code springs, add a leaf, and lift kits, all lifted the truck more than I wanted and were not exactly cheap options. The woman is short, my parents are old, and I didn't want another tall vehicle for people to struggle in and out of. I felt like raising the center of gravity would make matter worse. So this is what I did.

Ranch 9000 shocks - Replaced worn shocks, adjusted them stiff at first to bandaid other issues. After other mods I turned them down. These are made for heavy vehicles and it shows.

Firestone Rear Airbags - Really helped tighten up the rear that wanted to sway and wonder all over. Big improvement. Also helped a lot in the towing department, since soft stock springs cause nose up towing.

Hellwig Rear Sway bar - I actually found this on craigslist new in the box for cheap. I'm not sure I would have bought it new cause I'm cheap. I didn't have a rear sway bar and putting this on helped tighten things up out back

Hellwig Front sway bar - Tighten up the rear and the end links up front started to clunk. So for a little more than good endlinks I bought the front bar kit. It made things slightly better for stability and handling.

Front Firestone airbags - A War Wagon needs a War Grill. After adding a heavy craigslist Ranch Hand bumper, things were sitting low in the front. Firestone doesn't sell front airbags for the Excusion and the tech line wouldn't tell me if the F250/350 ones would fit. Well...they don't fit, however, I made them fit. This was the final piece of the puzzle. It handles great.

265 Michelins to 285/75/16 Cooper ST Maxx - These hurt mileage a little but are 10x better off road or in bad weather. They also seem to put the speedometer in check with radar/GPS speeds. The Michelins had dry rot and hydroplaned in mild rain. About 12,000 miles on them with almost no visible wear. Almost no noise as well. Big block tread doesn't seem to 'drift' on highway turns like other AT tires I have used.

Now the truck handles great, isn't much higher than stock, and tows well. Mission accomplished.

Maintenance and other

Around 300,000 it had a slight weep from the waterpump. It was getting worse so it got a new Napa water pump. I put a Napa thermostat and housing on it, as well as the "around the belt" upper hose. Also did a green fleet belt. The thermostat housing leaked, so I returned it in favor of a Bean's Diesel aluminum one. It had a thicker oring and stainless socket headed cap screws. Never leaked a drop.

08+ Mirrors were installed since those small ones are hell to tow with. I went with 1A Trail Ridge mirrors since they claimed to be better. Well, after seeing a friends ebay specials I would say that claim is correct. Better plastic, better glass, and mine didn't have all the slop and shake that his did.

It's first cold Ohio winter revealed an oil cooler leak. Under 20 degrees meant a big oil leak on start up. Once warmed up it was gone. If you plug in the truck, it didn't leak. Easy but time consuming. Felpro gaskets and orings were installed. The Dorman kit I had before Felpro was junk, the gaskets didn't even match up the flange surface correctly.

After 300,000 miles the windshield had met it's match. Several chips and cloudy from wear. We replaced it around 305,000.

I fluid filmed the Excursion a second time this fall. It's rust free and I am trying to keep it that way. About 3/4 of a gallon air sprayed seems to do the trick.

Rear Diff fluid and newer Ford Aluminum diff cover, Napa coated rotors and pads, oil and filters were some of the normal maintenance we did.



The first 28,000 miles have been pretty good, the woman and I love this thing. It's awesome for trips. A lot of the stuff I did was unnecessary, but I feel like it has become exactly what we were looking for. Even with the big tires, ranch hand, and tunes it still gets better mileage than our Tahoe. It has more room, more power, more seats, and can tow a skid steer with ease.

Next up, gauges, some paint repair, 4R100 bypass kit, possibly a aftermarket valve body and converter [or build], aftermarket radio, new front seat leather, and just drive the piss out of it some more.
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Last edited by Bersaglieri; 02-14-2018 at 01:03 AM.
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Old 02-14-2018, 01:05 AM   #32
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By the way we are currently at 312,xxx miles.
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Old 02-14-2018, 11:22 AM   #33
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updated pictures?! Sounds like you've got it right!
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Old 02-14-2018, 05:51 PM   #34
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Link to the Fluid Film? I have some serious work to do on my Ford

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Old 02-14-2018, 09:41 PM   #35
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It's dirty, but you get the idea.

Almost forgot, 2004 Harley Davidson grill. Old one was broken and faded. It made the truck look like it had Austin Power's teeth.

Click the image to open in full size.

Fluid Film can be bought on eBay by the gallon and with a sprayer for about $75. I don't have a link but the stuff works on the prevention side of rust. Not sure on stopping it yet.
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Old 02-15-2018, 08:48 AM   #36
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Ride height is nice. Looks good!
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Old 03-13-2018, 10:43 PM   #37
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Definitely go hydra with Wildman or Gearhead tunes. Slap some Stage II injectors in it with a GTP38R and you'll be able to go anywhere pulling anything you desire. PMRs for rods so no more than 450hp at the wheels. Talk to Bryan at BTS about your trans work. Good Luck.
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Old 06-11-2018, 12:23 AM   #38
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Thanks guys!

I installed an Edge Insight for gauges and diagnostics. I was going to do my typical ISSPRO setup but on a newer diesel, haha, you need to check things like ICP, IPR duty, etc. So far it works well and I am glad I bought it. I have already used it on a friend's truck to trouble shoot some issues he had after an injector upgrade.

We have had a vibration at 65mph since the truck was first ours. Found out that it seems to be play in the splines of the slip joint in the rear driveshaft. Looks like I need a new one.

I have a Hydra with the generic PHP tunes, I was thinking of going with some better ones but I heard Gearhead won't do Excursions. I honestly need to call around. It runs good, but if we do injectors down the road I don't want canned tunes. Some people say Wildman or Gearhead tunes on a stock motor are worth it, maybe I will try some.

Did the trans cooler bypass rebuild. Now I feel like I should have just deleted it. Trans and oil temps seemed high to me during my last 75mph for 3 hours drive. Trans hovered around 220, Oil Temp around 235.

The barn door cable broke. I guess that's a thing. It has plastic ends. I bought aluminum ones from ebay, probably will install them this week.

The ole girl needs a paint job, the black on these trucks seems to delaminate and it has acid rain spots that I can't get off. We are thinking about going Tuxedo black on the whole truck.

Current miles: 320,xxx
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Old 06-20-2018, 07:17 PM   #39
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320,8xx miles.

About a week ago the woman said the truck "feels funny" it "sputters". Well me being new at the 7.3l, I have tried to diagnose it, but I figured someone on here might be able to help.

Let me start by saying I have never had a good ear for hearing misses on a motor unless it's a total dead hole. That being said I think we have a miss. I can't hear it at idle but I do notice it on the 1200rpm high idle. The motor shakes a little more now and you can feel it in the seat and wheel at rest during the high idle. I have had it on two different SnapOn scanners and they both show #8 failing a contribution/balance check. The second shop/scanner showed P1670 which seemed to be related to the IDM. So, I borrowed a spare IDM and tried it. It did nothing. I put a new Ford CPS in to try, it did nothing. My ICP and IPR numbers are in check and the HPOP is allegedly "fresh". Where do I go next? Is there anywhere in southern or eastern Ohio that could definitively tell me it's a bad injector? Local Ford dealer is backed up to mid July.

If it is the injectors, who are the better shops and what size for a PMR motor that the wife drives but I also want to enjoy driving? I was considering Swamp 175/0, Full Force 180, and Full Force 180/30.

On the other hand... I am HEAVILY considering a Cummins swap. I count off a million reasons why I would love to have one in there, especially right now. Spare parts, knowledge, simplicity, low end grunt, power, etc, etc. The only issue holding me back is cold starting in the winter. The woman drives this and I don't want her dealing with 10 minute smokey cold starts. My buddy's VE truck starts pretty good in the winter. My 2nd gen without a grid heater and timing around 19 does not. Any advice if I go that route? Maybe run a intake plate with two grid heaters and keep the timing reasonable? Transmission control?
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Old 06-22-2018, 11:47 PM   #40
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Check the injector plug's insulation for the drivers side valve cover. Could just be grounding out on something. Old as the 7.3's are getting the insulation crumbles if you look at it wrong.

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