Simple 'Timing for Dummies' question

The way they have you do it on the PDR's site takes a while. I listened to Smokem and now I can time one in not much longer than what time it takes to remove the IP to clean the pump shaft and gear. Thanks again Weston!
 
Are they not referring to the port on the side of the pump where you insert the plastic for into the gear in the gov housing?

To the guy that started the thread, what shims do you have under your injectors? The shims will change over all injection timing with respect to how much fuel ends up in the fuel bowl in the piston. Shooting fuel onto the top of the piston can make a "fuel knock" sometimes.
 
I put in the washers supplied with the sticks. I agree with what you're saying about the fuel hitting the bowl, of course. I'd love to get my hands on a borescope and look to see what's going on. I'm told 13mm pumps are inherently loud, though, too.
 
The way they have you do it on the PDR's site takes a while. I listened to Smokem and now I can time one in not much longer than what time it takes to remove the IP to clean the pump shaft and gear. Thanks again Weston!

So, has Weston's method been detailed anywhere? I'd like to see what he suggests...
 
So, has Weston's method been detailed anywhere? I'd like to see what he suggests...

I would like to see this method also... I am farly new to 12v's and have a question. To find top dead center could you just use a degree wheel like I use to degree my cams on my gas race engines?
 
yes

but as with any motor you either need to be able to put a indicator on number one or use some sort of a stop

some actually take clearance away from the intake valve and use that as their stop!
 
yes

but as with any motor you either need to be able to put a indicator on number one or use some sort of a stop

some actually take clearance away from the intake valve and use that as their stop!

x2.

The drop valve method is how the FSM suggests you accurately adjust the timing pin.
 
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