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10-12-2017, 09:18 PM
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#1
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Name: jhastings
Title: Diesel Enthusiast
Status: Not Here
Join Date: May 2011
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Posts: 129
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98 12v Electrical problems
Just got the truck back together and I'm having some electrical issues. I have two brand new batteries and all connections are clean and tight.
When starting, truck is slow to crank sometimes. Also, the speedometer bounces all over the place. Lastly, the windows and accessories are really slow as if there is low voltage. Tonight on the way home, all gauges died and the dash lights were really dim. Then gauges would come back. Voltage is showing 14 or so on the gauge.
Any ideas? ECM....? How do I test it?
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1998 2500 12V SLT QCLB 5-speed 4X4 3.54, LSD F+R, 62/68/12, DDP2, 4"exhaust,841 Pump, 16* timing, #10 full back, 3K GSK, 191's, Oregon Cam, 13 " Con-O 241HD, ARP Studs, 60# over springs, 4" inline pacbrake, 226K.
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10-13-2017, 09:19 AM
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#2
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Name: jlbayes
Title: Too Much Time
Status: Not Here
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: michigan
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Posts: 2,399
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Sounds like you lost a ground or two. Possibly a poor connection at a main harness connector.
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Jacob, 97 rclb
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10-13-2017, 09:46 AM
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#3
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Name: CorneliusRox
Title: Seasoned Rookie
Status: Not Here
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Detroit, MI
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Posts: 4,154
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I'd agree that it's most likely ****ty or disconnected grounds.
That being said, I think your starter has a different issue. The only time I've had poor starting speed is:
1) bad batteries
2) bad starter
3) not good enough current running to the motor. Make sure you run some decent 0 awg line from your starter to your battery, jump the ground from the relay to the starter ground (neg), and make sure your positive line from the relay is getting a full 12V when you hit the ignition (easy to test with a multimeter).
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Corey - BSME '21 Tesla Model 3 Perf
'22 DMax AT4 2500
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10-13-2017, 10:08 AM
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#4
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Name: BigPapa
Title: Truckless
Status: Not Here
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Springfield, TN
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Posts: 5,034
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I agree, you have a ground/connection issue, bad starter, or bad batteries. Most likely a bad ground/connection issue.
Just FYI, 12V's don't have an ECM. There is a PCM (Power Control Module) on the passenger side firewall.
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Scott
2003 Avalanche Z71
Common sense is like deodorant. The people that need it most never use it.
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10-13-2017, 11:08 AM
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#5
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Name: Kryp2nitE
Title: Green Behind the Ears
Status: Not Here
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: San Diego, CA
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Posts: 64
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98 12v Electrical problems
Do yourself a favor and don’t buy a reman from a parts house if you replace the starter. They tend to be junk and will have the same issue. There are threads on upgrading the contacts to one with a larger contact patch. Best thing I ever did was drop it off at a place to be rebuilt and cleaned up inside. It was so bad inside the guy said he had to let the dust settle for a couple hours before going back in the workshop. If I. Remember correctly the life expectancy was about 100k with stock parts. Went from cranking very slow and needing throttle to start to cranking over easily.
Larryb - Dodge Cummins starter rebuild kits
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95 2WD HE351/BHT3B twins, OFV060HP, Built 47RH, Airdog 150, 18* Timing, AFC Live Stage 2
Last edited by Kryp2nitE; 10-13-2017 at 11:09 AM.
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10-13-2017, 11:30 AM
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#6
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Name: CorneliusRox
Title: Seasoned Rookie
Status: Not Here
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Detroit, MI
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Posts: 4,154
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kryp2nitE
Do yourself a favor and don’t buy a reman from a parts house if you replace the starter. They tend to be junk and will have the same issue. There are threads on upgrading the contacts to one with a larger contact patch. Best thing I ever did was drop it off at a place to be rebuilt and cleaned up inside. It was so bad inside the guy said he had to let the dust settle for a couple hours before going back in the workshop. If I. Remember correctly the life expectancy was about 100k with stock parts. Went from cranking very slow and needing throttle to start to cranking over easily.
Larryb - Dodge Cummins starter rebuild kits
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I've been hearing this for years and when my starter finally went at about 230k, it was too corroded to rebuild. I bought a cheap autoparts store one (Napa I think) and it's been very reliable for 70k. I don't think they're as bad as people have been saying.
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Corey - BSME '21 Tesla Model 3 Perf
'22 DMax AT4 2500
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10-13-2017, 08:07 PM
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#7
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Name: badbowtie
Title: custom engine daydreamer
Status: Not Here
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Plainfield IN
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Posts: 475
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Napa is still better than AutoZone or the like. I have swapped my father inlaw's cheap starter 3 times in 3 years. He is retired and doesn't mind because I do the work, but I wouldn't want to count on one.
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1996 3500 4x4 5spd
1991 D350 5spd
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10-13-2017, 09:53 PM
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#8
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Name: jhastings
Title: Diesel Enthusiast
Status: Not Here
Join Date: May 2011
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Posts: 129
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Yep I think you are correct about the ground. Seems like that is 90% of all electrical problems. I have already rebuilt the starter with contacts/plunger.
What grounds should I check? I have two going to block and one going to body/frame off driver side battery ground cable.
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__________________
1998 2500 12V SLT QCLB 5-speed 4X4 3.54, LSD F+R, 62/68/12, DDP2, 4"exhaust,841 Pump, 16* timing, #10 full back, 3K GSK, 191's, Oregon Cam, 13 " Con-O 241HD, ARP Studs, 60# over springs, 4" inline pacbrake, 226K.
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10-14-2017, 11:31 AM
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#9
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Name: BigPapa
Title: Truckless
Status: Not Here
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Springfield, TN
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Posts: 5,034
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jhastings
What grounds should I check?
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ALL of them. Both ends.
I found the negative terminal on my passenger side battery was not getting good connection. I found it when jumping the truck off. Couldn't get power through the jumpers when clamped to the terminals. The terminal was tight.
__________________
Scott
2003 Avalanche Z71
Common sense is like deodorant. The people that need it most never use it.
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10-22-2017, 08:58 PM
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#10
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Name: jhastings
Title: Diesel Enthusiast
Status: Not Here
Join Date: May 2011
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Posts: 129
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Ok guys cleaned all terminals, grounds, etc with wire brush. Passenger battery is getting 13+ volts and driver side sits at 11.9v. Alternator is throwing 14.01v at the back of the alternator. The only thing I can find with my tester is the 50A fuse labeled BATTERY is grounded on one side unlike any of the other circuits. Mind you both batteries are brand new and take no charge on my charger.
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__________________
1998 2500 12V SLT QCLB 5-speed 4X4 3.54, LSD F+R, 62/68/12, DDP2, 4"exhaust,841 Pump, 16* timing, #10 full back, 3K GSK, 191's, Oregon Cam, 13 " Con-O 241HD, ARP Studs, 60# over springs, 4" inline pacbrake, 226K.
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10-22-2017, 08:58 PM
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#11
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Name: jhastings
Title: Diesel Enthusiast
Status: Not Here
Join Date: May 2011
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Posts: 129
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Shouldn't both batteries be the same when running since they are directly connected?
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__________________
1998 2500 12V SLT QCLB 5-speed 4X4 3.54, LSD F+R, 62/68/12, DDP2, 4"exhaust,841 Pump, 16* timing, #10 full back, 3K GSK, 191's, Oregon Cam, 13 " Con-O 241HD, ARP Studs, 60# over springs, 4" inline pacbrake, 226K.
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10-22-2017, 09:05 PM
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#12
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Name: jhastings
Title: Diesel Enthusiast
Status: Not Here
Join Date: May 2011
Member`s Gallery
Posts: 129
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Also, truck can be slow to shut off sometimes like the fuel shutoff solenoid is slow to move. It's new too
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__________________
1998 2500 12V SLT QCLB 5-speed 4X4 3.54, LSD F+R, 62/68/12, DDP2, 4"exhaust,841 Pump, 16* timing, #10 full back, 3K GSK, 191's, Oregon Cam, 13 " Con-O 241HD, ARP Studs, 60# over springs, 4" inline pacbrake, 226K.
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10-23-2017, 06:36 AM
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#13
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Name: jasonc
Title: Too Much Time
Status: Not Here
Join Date: Nov 2009
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Posts: 4,412
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Yes batts should read the same, disconnect the pos cable between the two and load check the batterys, if you don't have a load checker make sure they are both at like 12.8 disconnected from each other. Then if both are the same, hook a set of temporary jumper cables between the two batterys and see how it cranks.
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10-23-2017, 09:15 PM
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#14
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Name: jhastings
Title: Diesel Enthusiast
Status: Not Here
Join Date: May 2011
Member`s Gallery
Posts: 129
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Grid heater solenoid were stuck on and they were draining the batteries.
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__________________
1998 2500 12V SLT QCLB 5-speed 4X4 3.54, LSD F+R, 62/68/12, DDP2, 4"exhaust,841 Pump, 16* timing, #10 full back, 3K GSK, 191's, Oregon Cam, 13 " Con-O 241HD, ARP Studs, 60# over springs, 4" inline pacbrake, 226K.
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