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Old 10-24-2017, 12:48 AM   #1
Lance

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Blown head gasket, what to do?

I have had a coolant leak between the block and head under the #6 exhaust outlet for a while. I decided to fix it finally.

Plan on:
New Cummins gasket
Isky tool to O ring the block
O rings
ARP lower end studs
New valve seals
60lb springs
Head resurfacing

Anything else I should do while it's off? Any other seals or gaskets I might need? Special tools to make it easier?
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Old 10-24-2017, 12:52 AM   #2
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Here my opinion on the deal... as I stated, my opinion.

1. Check the block to make sure itís true as well.
2. Spring for a better set of springs.
3. Depending on a lot of things, might look into a tappet cover gasket since youíll be elbow deep in in it already.


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Old 10-24-2017, 04:57 AM   #3
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Certainly thoroughly check the block and head. I had a leak in the same spot. Cracked head in multiple places and slightly warped deck (P.O. beat the piss out of the truck in the mud). I o-ringed the head (easier to replace/fix if something goes wrong).

I used a couple light coats of permatex copper seal-a-gasket on both sides of my Cummins hg. Holding up so far!!!

Donít be so crazy about a ďsmoothĒ surface. The gasket needs something to bite on to. Levelness and cleanliness are the two most important factors. Otherwise, enjoy!!! Straight forward job.


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Old 10-24-2017, 07:42 AM   #4
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Get the head o-ringed instead of doing the block yourself, make sure the shop doing the head knows what they're doing as far as placement and protrusion. Local shop to me does alot of them, for resurface and rings is $300. Also don't get surprised to see cracks everywhere in the head when you pull it, especially if the trucks been turned up, they all crack and it will be fine, put it back on.
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Old 10-24-2017, 07:37 PM   #5
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Be sure to do a warm re-torque on the new headgasket setup when you finish the job, take it easy powerwise until you get a good retorque on it or you will be doing the head gasket again.
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Old 10-24-2017, 07:48 PM   #6
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Originally Posted by Big Blue24 View Post
Be sure to do a warm re-torque on the new headgasket setup when you finish the job, take it easy powerwise until you get a good retorque on it or you will be doing the head gasket again.


Or a retorque period. Everyone has their personal opinion on which retorque style is better.


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Old 10-24-2017, 09:19 PM   #7
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I ran mine to operating temp and let it cool then retorqued.


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Old 10-24-2017, 09:25 PM   #8
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No boost until you retorque
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Old 10-25-2017, 12:54 AM   #9
Lance

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Quote:
Originally Posted by BRE View Post
Here my opinion on the deal... as I stated, my opinion.

1. Check the block to make sure itís true as well.
2. Spring for a better set of springs.
3. Depending on a lot of things, might look into a tappet cover gasket since youíll be elbow deep in in it already.


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Which springs?
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Old 10-25-2017, 12:58 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jasonc View Post
Get the head o-ringed instead of doing the block yourself, make sure the shop doing the head knows what they're doing as far as placement and protrusion. Local shop to me does alot of them, for resurface and rings is $300. Also don't get surprised to see cracks everywhere in the head when you pull it, especially if the trucks been turned up, they all crack and it will be fine, put it back on.
I don't know of any local shops that have done them here. Reason for doing the block instead is it would save me all the freight costs. Unless I'm just not looking in the right places? A friend sent his off to sheid and spent 300+ just for the trip there and back
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Old 10-25-2017, 02:12 AM   #11
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Quote:
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Or a retorque period. Everyone has their personal opinion on which retorque style is better.
What torque spec for new/old head bolts? I believe I remember reading 125ft/lbs?
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Old 10-25-2017, 06:40 AM   #12
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I found a guy around me who had a honing plate (I did a full rebuild) as he built competition sled pull tractors. I just used a 4x4 forum for my state and asked around for a reputable individual who knows what heís doing with big engines. He cut my o-rings in my head for me.

Just follow the manufactureís torque specification including preload and whatnot. Youíll have to retorque to spec after you run it due to heat expansion.


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Old 10-25-2017, 07:20 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LORDDiESEL View Post
What torque spec for new/old head bolts? I believe I remember reading 125ft/lbs?


Iíve ran some to 135ftlbs however I canít remember what the torque to yield measurement comes out to off the top of my head.


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Been there done that, bought a tee shirt, and threw a big girl a pudding cup
RIP Dex KCCO
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Old 10-25-2017, 12:11 PM   #14
Lance

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What causes the HG to pop right there? The compression is fine and it's not leaking coolant into the oil. Is it possible that the water pump is pressurizing the system too much? Maybe before the thermostat opens up? I noticed the leak slows down if I drive easy but if I rev it high or have high boost the leak gets worse. I did add a coolant bypass on the back of the block and it's tapped into the return line on the heater core hose.
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Old 10-25-2017, 12:15 PM   #15
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It lifted the head and cyl press escaped and broke the seal of the gasket.
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Old 10-25-2017, 02:46 PM   #16
Lance

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called a few diesel shops in Albuquerque and no one in the entire state does O-rings. They said the send all their heads off out of state to get done. What kind of machine is required for this that a normal machine shop doesn't have?

Also does $400 seem about right for head resurfacing and a valve job?
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Old 10-25-2017, 06:24 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lance View Post
called a few diesel shops in Albuquerque and no one in the entire state does O-rings. They said the send all their heads off out of state to get done. What kind of machine is required for this that a normal machine shop doesn't have?

Also does $400 seem about right for head resurfacing and a valve job?
https://www.summitracing.com/search/...-ringing-tools

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Old 10-25-2017, 07:00 PM   #18
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How much is shipping to fl?
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Old 10-25-2017, 08:05 PM   #19
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Quote:
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Iíve ran some to 135ftlbs however I canít remember what the torque to yield measurement comes out to off the top of my head.
Thanks! I knew it was somewhere around there. I have a brand new engine that I will have to retorque when I flash her up.
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Old 10-26-2017, 12:28 AM   #20
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Iíve ran some to 135ftlbs however I canít remember what the torque to yield measurement comes out to off the top of my head.


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I do know that when I bought new head bolts from Cummins in 2009, they spec'd the torque plus angle method. The final torque value was 89ft lbs and then an additional 90į.

I recall checking them years later and finding that my torque wrench clicked at 125ft lbs but I didn't go beyond that to see where exactly they were.
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