Nv4500 to 47re swap I'm clueless

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Synergygreen12v

New member
I have a 98 12 valve with an nv4500 that I'm getting sick of so a friend of mine has a truck with a 47re that he wants to swap to a manual for a sled puller and wants to trade me for trans, crossmember, tcase, driveshafts, etc. I'm trying to figure out what would be the best way to control it. I'm getting all goerend parts to build the trans to handle the 800-1000hp goal I have for the truck that I want to be able to drive on the street and drag race on the weekends and occasionally sled pull. I wanted to do a manual vb but it sounds like they aren't exactly streetable. Do I need a standalone controller or do I need to swap the pcm and wiring harness out of his truck? I'm not very good with electrical or autos so I'm kind of lost.

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Manual valve body is great on the street. If you don't want to do the full manual go with Firepunks anteater.

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I'd recommend starting with swapping his PCM and yours too, so you can drive it first. Then you can decide on a VB setup. If you go full manual, then you'd have to wire up switches for overdrive and torque converter lockup.
If you want to stay auto, but you hate the timing/shift points on your OD and TC, then get in contact with joeFarmer/FirePunk for Anteater.

Synergygreen12v said:
Really? I guess I was told that they shift super hard for normal driving
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That's only if you tie off the TV cable. You can leave that hooked up and it'll change line pressure based on your throttle. They're great for larger charger setups, so you can stay in the RPMs you want to be in.
 
CorneliusRox said:
I'd recommend starting with swapping his PCM and yours too, so you can drive it first. Then you can decide on a VB setup. If you go full manual, then you'd have to wire up switches for overdrive and torque converter lockup.
If you want to stay auto, but you hate the timing/shift points on your OD and TC, then get in contact with joeFarmer/FirePunk for Anteater.



That's only if you tie off the TV cable. You can leave that hooked up and it'll change line pressure based on your throttle. They're great for larger charger setups, so you can stay in the RPMs you want to be in.
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Probably not a bad idea... if i go manual i wouldn't need to wire anything other than od and tc? I wouldn't mind doing all the shifting I'm used to that anyway as long as it shifts better than an nv4500 with a dual disc lol.. but if I were to swap pcms and go completely auto would I have to swap over the whole wiring harness or is the trans harness separate from the engine harness?

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Does anyone on here have a truck with a fully manual vb that they regularly drive on the street? Just looking for some pros/cons/tips what shifter they recommend? Ratcheting? Regular or reverse pattern etc

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I think there's one company that makes a reverse pattern MVB and I've never heard a review. I personally like ratcheting style, but a lot of people with fast trucks like gate style.

It's just a little annoying to hop in and ratchet a bunch to get to first, or if you're backing up a trailer and you don't hit it on the first pass, 1st and reverse are a long ways apart!
 
CorneliusRox said:
I think there's one company that makes a reverse pattern MVB and I've never heard a review. I personally like ratcheting style, but a lot of people with fast trucks like gate style.

It's just a little annoying to hop in and ratchet a bunch to get to first, or if you're backing up a trailer and you don't hit it on the first pass, 1st and reverse are a long ways apart!
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Gotcha I haven't decided yet between gated or ratchet if I go ratchet I would probably get reverse pattern, if I go gated probably normal pattern... I don't ever pull a trailer with it anymore, I have a 24 valve for that lol so that's no biggie I'm more concerned with issues of the shifter sticking halfway between gears and burning it up etc

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Synergygreen12v said:
Gotcha I haven't decided yet between gated or ratchet if I go ratchet I would probably get reverse pattern, if I go gated probably normal pattern... I don't ever pull a trailer with it anymore, I have a 24 valve for that lol so that's no biggie I'm more concerned with issues of the shifter sticking halfway between gears and burning it up etc
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If you get a quality unit, you won't have this issue. Just follow the directions.

matt05 said:
I thought everyone quit making reverse valve bodies?
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That could be. It's been ~3 years since I looked into it, and back then there was only one company I found. I forget who it was.
 
I ran a full manual vb. Didn't like it. Shift Shift Shift switch switch over and over. Might as well stick with the 5sp. I switched over to the Anteater and love it. You can have three tunes. Street, Race and sled if you want. And it's easy to set up. Plus if your going to pay to have a manual vb built you might as well just have Firepunk build you a vb for the anteater and just be out the price of one vb not two and a wiring harness. Just my two cents.
 
Ruben774 said:
I ran a full manual vb. Didn't like it. Shift Shift Shift switch switch over and over. Might as well stick with the 5sp. I switched over to the Anteater and love it. You can have three tunes. Street, Race and sled if you want. And it's easy to set up. Plus if your going to pay to have a manual vb built you might as well just have Firepunk build you a vb for the anteater and just be out the price of one vb not two and a wiring harness. Just my two cents.
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I would be sticking with a 5 speed if I could make one last but I get what you mean... I guess I haven't looked into the anteater I don't really know anything about them

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Has anyone done the manual to auto conversion in an all factory way? Would you need to change out the interior wiring harness too? What about the ctu?
 
Subbed, about to do this swap myself, with no donor truck to flip flop parts off of... should be interesting.


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I decided to go with a normal valvebody so I'm gonna be swapping pcms, anybody have any wiring diagrams I would need to wire the new trans to the pcm?

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