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03-05-2018, 10:39 AM
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#1
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Name: metchosin joe
Title: Rookie
Status: Not Here
Join Date: Jul 2012
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Posts: 26
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He351ve brake setup
So I’ve read just about every thread on this swap. Since photobucket destroyed most decent threads I’m hoping some of those that have done the He351ve setup could post how they got the exhaust brake to work.
I’ll be doing a double acting cylinder with boost and drive pressure to control the veins. That part looks pretty straight forward but getting the exhaust brake mode to work looks more complicated.
I have an air tank so I could do a compressed air or is there a simpler setup?
I’ve read some guys just run with the veins closed all the time and just the drive pressure open them..
CompD Mobile Device
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03-05-2018, 06:41 PM
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#2
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Name: Biohmmwv
Title: Green Behind the Ears
Status: Not Here
Join Date: Sep 2008
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Posts: 43
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Not meaning to thread jack, but you can download an extension for Firefox and Chrome that will bypass the photo block.
I'm reading the Firefox extention is not always working, but the Chrome one works....for now.
Look up "Firefox or Chrome embed fix."
Good luck
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03-05-2018, 09:19 PM
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#3
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Name: Redrider2911
Title: Too Much Time
Status: Not Here
Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: Yakima, WA
Member`s Gallery
Posts: 780
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Don’t use the boost/drive method. It will lead to unpredictable and inconsistent actuation as well as issues with turbo bark. Just run drive pressure and a spring.
__________________
49 Willys Pickup. 5600lb. 11.8sec @115mph 1/4. 12 valve. MegaSquirted 47RH. 3.54 posi rear. 35" tires. 64mm HE351ve, S475 (75/96/1.32), A/W Intercooler. AFC mods. 5x16s. 191 DVs, 180 pump. 23*. 85psi. Build Thread
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03-05-2018, 09:21 PM
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#4
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Name: Redrider2911
Title: Too Much Time
Status: Not Here
Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: Yakima, WA
Member`s Gallery
Posts: 780
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__________________
49 Willys Pickup. 5600lb. 11.8sec @115mph 1/4. 12 valve. MegaSquirted 47RH. 3.54 posi rear. 35" tires. 64mm HE351ve, S475 (75/96/1.32), A/W Intercooler. AFC mods. 5x16s. 191 DVs, 180 pump. 23*. 85psi. Build Thread
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03-05-2018, 09:42 PM
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#5
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Name: autoferret
Title: Too Much Time
Status: Not Here
Join Date: Jul 2012
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Posts: 1,350
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https://steeds.tech/
have you looked into this unit? I've been thinking of what way to go with my turbo upgrade. good luck!
__________________
1976 Ford F150 with a Detroit Diesel 3-53
2003 Dodge Ram 3500 Quad Cab LWB, 5.9l HO, 48RE, S&B intake, stright pipe, superchips on economy mod (till i can sell and get a smarty), EGT Boost Trany Temp guages
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03-06-2018, 12:38 PM
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#6
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Name: metchosin joe
Title: Rookie
Status: Not Here
Join Date: Jul 2012
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Posts: 26
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Thanks
So a single acting cylinder on only drive pressure is gonna act more predictable.
What about utilizing the exhaust brake mode?
Are you regulating the drive pressure?
I like all the after market electronic setups but im a cheap ass and want to build a mechanical setup
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03-06-2018, 01:42 PM
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#7
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Name: Redrider2911
Title: Too Much Time
Status: Not Here
Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: Yakima, WA
Member`s Gallery
Posts: 780
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No I am not regulating drive pressure, I wanted it to have full force to overcome any stickiness in the travel. I adjusted spring stiffness and then spring preload to get it to perform how I wanted.
I am not worried about the exhaust brake too much so I don't have it set up. You could use an electric solenoid to move the spring stop to allow a fully closed condition... On my setup I adjusted the set collar to where it wouldn't allow it to close any further than I wanted. If you could actuate the stop and move it out of the way, then the spring preload would be able to push it the rest of the way closed.
__________________
49 Willys Pickup. 5600lb. 11.8sec @115mph 1/4. 12 valve. MegaSquirted 47RH. 3.54 posi rear. 35" tires. 64mm HE351ve, S475 (75/96/1.32), A/W Intercooler. AFC mods. 5x16s. 191 DVs, 180 pump. 23*. 85psi. Build Thread
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03-06-2018, 02:23 PM
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#8
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Name: metchosin joe
Title: Rookie
Status: Not Here
Join Date: Jul 2012
Member`s Gallery
Posts: 26
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Your setup is very nice
My theory was to have the boost on return but have compressed air in line and use it to over come the boost to return the cylinder and close the vains.
But if the boost and drive together is too problematic I think I’ll go back to the drawing board
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03-07-2018, 08:03 AM
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#9
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Name: zfaylor
Title: Comp Diesel Sponsor
Status: Not Here
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: P-TOWN!, Indiana
Member`s Gallery
Posts: 5,024
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You need an electronic solution. Nobody tends to stick with their mechanical actuated vgt holsets because they can never truly get them to function how they want. Spend the money and get a controller and you will love it.
__________________
2015 half ton heavy chevy
81 Fairmont LS project
Many yard ornament projects...
North American Turbo
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03-07-2018, 09:12 AM
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#10
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Name: CorneliusRox
Title: Seasoned Rookie
Status: Not Here
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Detroit, MI
Member`s Gallery
Posts: 4,154
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zfaylor
You need an electronic solution. Nobody tends to stick with their mechanical actuated vgt holsets because they can never truly get them to function how they want. Spend the money and get a controller and you will love it.
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x2 we rigged a VGT off a 6.0L onto a 12V at one point and made it work with an Arduino.
I used the base code from a VW forum where some guy had done most the work.
Had to pull inputs off RPM, throttle position, and drive pressure, then there was a sort of 'open loop' matrix, and a closed loop section that had smoothing and +/- (piggyback style) for variables.
It worked surprisingly well, but could have used a lot more refinement/time. Time's just hard to come by!
__________________
Corey - BSME '21 Tesla Model 3 Perf
'22 DMax AT4 2500
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03-07-2018, 11:24 AM
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#11
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Name: Redrider2911
Title: Too Much Time
Status: Not Here
Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: Yakima, WA
Member`s Gallery
Posts: 780
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I dunno... SUPER happy with mine the last few months.
__________________
49 Willys Pickup. 5600lb. 11.8sec @115mph 1/4. 12 valve. MegaSquirted 47RH. 3.54 posi rear. 35" tires. 64mm HE351ve, S475 (75/96/1.32), A/W Intercooler. AFC mods. 5x16s. 191 DVs, 180 pump. 23*. 85psi. Build Thread
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03-07-2018, 01:59 PM
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#12
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Name: metchosin joe
Title: Rookie
Status: Not Here
Join Date: Jul 2012
Member`s Gallery
Posts: 26
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If the fleece setup wasn't so pricey I'd go that route.
the arduino setup also looks good and not that far out of my abilities but the mechanical setups just seem so much more simple to get going.
Seems like everyone was on board with these turbos from 2009-2013 then there was a lot less talk
Some one out there must have made a reliable way to get the brake to work mechanically
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03-27-2018, 12:24 PM
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#13
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Name: metchosin joe
Title: Rookie
Status: Not Here
Join Date: Jul 2012
Member`s Gallery
Posts: 26
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Figure I'll bump this back up as it getting closer to putting it on my truck
Any one with input?
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03-27-2018, 02:03 PM
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#14
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Name: wwentzler
Title: Diesel Enthusiast
Status: Not Here
Join Date: Jan 2017
Member`s Gallery
Posts: 152
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I wouldnt even waste your time with a mechanical setup, using an arduino is actually really cheap and easy. In fact, there is a thread buried somewhere on here that has almost all of the code already written, as well as a comprehensive parts list. Do some digging.
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03-28-2018, 11:21 AM
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#15
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Name: metchosin joe
Title: Rookie
Status: Not Here
Join Date: Jul 2012
Member`s Gallery
Posts: 26
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The arduino stuff looks like the best option now. Has any one tried the lbb stuff vol.1?
Buy that and the arduino then wire it sounds pretty straight forward
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