I need new front rotors for my 95'

SCHMITTY

SCHMITTY

Not enough time
They're warped bad. Should I go with the napa specials with some upgraded pads or is there a better choice?
 
I just grabbed a set from O'Reilly's. But I also don't tow much. Took them on a 600 mi trip towing a Chevy Nova crossing the Appalachians. I had no issues stopping or slowing down. New pads as well


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What you need is a buddy that has an on car brake lathe. Just cut the rotors and go. I did it with the wife's jeep. Hers were warped but still had good life left on the pads.
 
If it is 4x4 buy the highest quality rotor you can afford. It is a real crappy job on those.
 
I buy good rotors, and have had the best luck with Hawk pads. They don't eat rotors like "premium" pads.

I believe I've ran the Severe Duty Hawks and the LTS on my old 95 when she was towing heavy, and could get 50-60K on front pads, and usually 100K on rotors.

Chris
 
RDPsmoker said:
What you need is a buddy that has an on car brake lathe. Just cut the rotors and go. I did it with the wife's jeep. Hers were warped but still had good life left on the pads.
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I think they have been turned already.


I warped them a little at the drag strip and really finished them off the other day playing around near my shop. The whole front of the truck shakes if I'm braking hard. I replaced the rear brakes awhile ago and thought I had them adjusted correctly but maybe I don't and the fronts have been doing 100% of the the stopping duty.

What's the correct way to adjust the rears ?

I had a truck over here the other day with slotted rotors up front - 97' 12 valve
 
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Signature600 said:
I buy good rotors, and have had the best luck with Hawk pads. They don't eat rotors like "premium" pads.

I believe I've ran the Severe Duty Hawks and the LTS on my old 95 when she was towing heavy, and could get 50-60K on front pads, and usually 100K on rotors.

Chris
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:rockwoot:
 

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Are your rotors held on by the wheel studs from the back side of the hub? If so, it would upgrade the hubs to the newer style that slip on the studs between the hub and wheel. It would allow quicker maintenance. May be cost prohibitive.
 
jedeka said:
Are your rotors held on by the wheel studs from the back side of the hub? If so, it would upgrade the hubs to the newer style that slip on the studs between the hub and wheel. It would allow quicker maintenance. May be cost prohibitive.
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Part # ????
 
jedeka said:
Are your rotors held on by the wheel studs from the back side of the hub? If so, it would upgrade the hubs to the newer style that slip on the studs between the hub and wheel. It would allow quicker maintenance. May be cost prohibitive.
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It's been a couple years since I've pulled the front wheels. I think the rotors are attached to the hub. I need to go check
 
Anyone have a preferred caliper. I need all of this stuff for my truck. Need good Dana 80 from parts to
 
I have frozen rotors with hawk pads and I love them. Looked at them for 15 years and finally got them and I don't regret it at all. They are definitely pricey but feel great and should last for ever with the hawk pads

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jedeka said:
Are your rotors held on by the wheel studs from the back side of the hub? If so, it would upgrade the hubs to the newer style that slip on the studs between the hub and wheel. It would allow quicker maintenance. May be cost prohibitive.
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Can you elaborate some more on this?
 
I was comparing a 96 to a 2000 truck. Both have a Dana 60 front axle with 33 spline outer and the same u-joint. The difference in outer stub lengths is just under 3/8". To be safe, upgrade to 2000 stub axles and hub assemblies, which will give you the slip on brake rotors. The only thing I cannot confirm is if there is any difference in caliper and caliper mounting bracket. If there is, the spindle will need updated to a 2000 part, too.
 
jedeka said:
I was comparing a 96 to a 2000 truck. Both have a Dana 60 front axle with 33 spline outer and the same u-joint. The difference in outer stub lengths is just under 3/8". To be safe, upgrade to 2000 stub axles and hub assemblies, which will give you the slip on brake rotors. The only thing I cannot confirm is if there is any difference in caliper and caliper mounting bracket. If there is, the spindle will need updated to a 2000 part, too.
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You're opening a can of worms.

Pre-99 has the rotors behind the hubs, calipers with the Allen head bolts that double as the slides, single big piston, no caliper mounting bracket, and ball joints in the knuckle (which I believe you just referred to as the spindle)

99-02 has the rotors that slip over the hubs, dual piston calipers that mount onto its own caliper bracket, that attach to a knuckle. They have the ball joints in the axle housing, NOT the knuckle.

What the OP should consider doing is getting the knuckles, hubs, rotors, calipers, outer axle stubs, and lockouts from a 92-97 F250 or F350, they are a direct replacement for the dodge knuckles and offer the locking hubs, simple tapered wheel bearings that you can adjust or re-pack, dual piston calipers, and larger rotors.

FWIW I always run the cheapest possible rotor I can find :lolly:
 
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I like and suggest Baer Brakes and EBC Brakes. They both make good rotors and pads, EBC has a little more variety available from upgraded stock replacement to high performance...
 
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