How do you stop a 47re pan gasket from leaking

[Kick Start]

Derailing of one's own thread. That is a new one.

[madmikeismad]

Originally Posted by Kick Start

Derailing of one's own thread. That is a new one.

No I've done it before, but usually to threads that have already served their purpose. This one still has a little life in her.

[Chris Tobin]

Check the flatness of the pan and the trans mating surfaces with a straight edge... The pan may be tweaked and not sealing, possibly there is a bulge from overtightening the bolts and it is not getting an even crush on the gasket???

Is this with the chrome cheapy pan or the factory pan?

Not to beat a dead horse but a good cast aluminum pan with an o-ring will seal better AND cool better!!!

On my Tahoe when I installed the rear diff cover I didn't have a 1/4-inch torque wrench handy so I just lightly tightened the allen bolts and called it good... Then a few months later I was under the truck to adjust the shocks and noticed that 5 of the 12 mounting bolts had fallen out!!! But it did not leak a single drip. The rigid cast aluminum Mag Hitec diff cover combined with their o-ring seal held fine with almost half of the bolts missing around the side and bottom of the cover!!! Unfortunately when the diff let go years later it took out the cover!

[madmikeismad]

Originally Posted by Chris Tobin

Check the flatness of the pan and the trans mating surfaces with a straight edge... The pan may be tweaked and not sealing, possibly there is a bulge from overtightening the bolts and it is not getting an even crush on the gasket???

Is this with the chrome cheapy pan or the factory pan?

Not to beat a dead horse but a good cast aluminum pan with an o-ring will seal better AND cool better!!!

On my Tahoe when I installed the rear diff cover I didn't have a 1/4-inch torque wrench handy so I just lightly tightened the allen bolts and called it good... Then a few months later I was under the truck to adjust the shocks and noticed that 5 of the 12 mounting bolts had fallen out!!! But it did not leak a single drip. The rigid cast aluminum Mag Hitec diff cover combined with their o-ring seal held fine with almost half of the bolts missing around the side and bottom of the cover!!! Unfortunately when the diff let go years later it took out the cover!

Both pans leaked the same way.

I would like a pan in the future, but money doesn't allow it right now after fixing everything else, and possibly finally getting a drivetrain for the vw. Plus I need a driveshaft for the race truck lol

[SHughes]

I might be able to hook you up with a driveshaft..mi have afew sitting around. Will need shortened of course.

Im starting to think its not the pan. Crack maybe...especially around a bolt hole??

[madmikeismad]

Originally Posted by SHughes

I might be able to hook you up with a driveshaft..mi have afew sitting around. Will need shortened of course.

Im starting to think its not the pan. Crack maybe...especially around a bolt hole??

I already have all the pieces needed, just need them put together and balanced. Actually thinking about just doing it this weekend, and skipping some other stuff for purple truck and vw. Especially since I just blew money on the awd swap for vw.

I'm going back out to check it now that it's cooled off some and the ground is "dry"

[madmikeismad]

Just went and looked. Everything is bone dry from the gasket up. It's definitely the gasket. When I hit it with a bright light it's just red all the way around

[CorneliusRox]

Mine leaks a little and I have a Mag Hytec... I cleaned the **** out of it but it still leaks... barely (maybe a drop every few weeks)
Note:checked flatness, torque on bolts, and that the o-ring isn't broken anywhere.

I don't recommend using an RTV style sealant. I go an mess with my VB pretty often. Sometimes depending on what I'm doing (towing vs daily vs just trying to pretend to be a little bit fast).

[madmikeismad]

Originally Posted by CorneliusRox

Mine leaks a little and I have a Mag Hytec... I cleaned the **** out of it but it still leaks... barely (maybe a drop every few weeks)
Note:checked flatness, torque on bolts, and that the o-ring isn't broken anywhere.

I don't recommend using an RTV style sealant. I go an mess with my VB pretty often. Sometimes depending on what I'm doing (towing vs daily vs just trying to pretend to be a little bit fast).

Since I don't know enough about these, I'm hoping it won't become an issue. And it's seeping so much I can't see the copper spray fixing it, but I'll try it first.

The ultra black is probably what I'll use if I go rtv. if you let it harden before you tighten the bolts down all the way, it will peel off like a gasket with a little work. right stuff though, might as well just junk the trans and swap in a new one

[CorneliusRox]

Originally Posted by madmikeismad

The ultra black is probably what I'll use if I go rtv. if you let it harden before you tighten the bolts down all the way, it will peel off like a gasket with a little work. right stuff though, might as well just junk the trans and swap in a new one

Ultra Black sounds good. International makes a grey paste that's pretty legit too. It isn't impossible to remove, but it's pretty close to being a structural epoxy!

[madmikeismad]

Originally Posted by CorneliusRox

Ultra Black sounds good. International makes a grey paste that's pretty legit too. It isn't impossible to remove, but it's pretty close to being a structural epoxy!

haha if they market it right, it could take over the concrete business.

[madmikeismad]

Disclaimer: I've been doing all this work at night when I get home from work, so it's dark.

I got the pan gasket off, used a little ultra black on both sides of the gasket and sealed it back up. Even did it per the instructions and let it cure a bit before tightening all the way. Leak free. Went out this morning, another puddle, but only on the drivers side of the truck. Crawl under and find it's leaking at the band adjustment screw, and where the shifter goes into the trans. This whole damn time that was probably 90% of the leak and I just couldn't see it in the dark. Talked to the builder, he said he'll help me out with it. Might go ahead and have him do whatever's needed for the fluid to flow in park too. I really hate having to let it sit in N for a minute before I can move. Never knew converter drain back was a problem until this last rebuild .

[zfaylor]

That shift seal is extremely easy to replace. Drop the valve body and pop a new seal in. If the band adjustment keeps leaking maybe toss a copper washer under the nut?

edit: chit should have read your whole post better. Your builder can probably handle all of that I hear you on the waiting a minute for the converter to fill. I never had an issue with any trucks until this one. The TFOD full manual kit must not correct that

[CorneliusRox]

Originally Posted by zfaylor

I hear you on the waiting a minute for the converter to fill. I never had an issue with any trucks until this one. The TFOD full manual kit must not correct that

Yeah, does anyone know the most common cause? Mine does this slightly. More so than the stock trans for sure. I don't have to wait more than a few seconds, but still, I liked not having to wait at all!

[zfaylor]

Originally Posted by CorneliusRox

Yeah, does anyone know the most common cause? Mine does this slightly. More so than the stock trans for sure. I don't have to wait more than a few seconds, but still, I liked not having to wait at all!

I am sure somebody knows the cause on here. Lavon would more than likely know. IIRC my DTT shift kit I installed several years ago referred to their new shift valve correcting the issue. I may have to find the directions I had and see. The waiting doesn't bother me it is the worry of why I am waiting and the fact the pump probably doesn't appreciate it much.

[madmikeismad]

Originally Posted by zfaylor

That shift seal is extremely easy to replace. Drop the valve body and pop a new seal in. If the band adjustment keeps leaking maybe toss a copper washer under the nut?

edit: chit should have read your whole post better. Your builder can probably handle all of that I hear you on the waiting a minute for the converter to fill. I never had an issue with any trucks until this one. The TFOD full manual kit must not correct that

lol yeah I'm not comfortable taking valvebodies out. Too much crap to put back together wrong, and I have a short temper as it is these days.

Originally Posted by CorneliusRox

Yeah, does anyone know the most common cause? Mine does this slightly. More so than the stock trans for sure. I don't have to wait more than a few seconds, but still, I liked not having to wait at all!

Originally Posted by zfaylor

I am sure somebody knows the cause on here. Lavon would more than likely know. IIRC my DTT shift kit I installed several years ago referred to their new shift valve correcting the issue. I may have to find the directions I had and see. The waiting doesn't bother me it is the worry of why I am waiting and the fact the pump probably doesn't appreciate it much.

It was explained to me that there's a check ball or something that gets removed. I don't know why, and it makes no sense to me. I could have understood wrong too, I've been known to do that.

I Just don't like the of parts spinning around in there with no oil pressure. Especially the converter spinning when it's "empty". And the fact that I've never had a trans do this before. Just a little annoying. What if I need to run from the cops, and I have to wait a full minute to move the truck!

[SHughes]

If you can load a gun you can do the VB on the Dodge.

[madmikeismad]

Originally Posted by SHughes

If you can load a gun you can do the VB on the Dodge.

Well you say that..... truth is I've never tried. Transmissions are too expensive for me to risk f'ing up.

[cetaneaddict]

Dude I've removed and installed two VB's with success, and I have alot less trans experience than you!........... Another note we get off topic on the phone a lot. Such as I ask for info on my broken truck problems, then somehow we get off topic to glen halls 500+ hp drag sled.