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Old 12-20-2016, 05:29 PM   #21
GAmes

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tate View Post
That's what made me end up having a tool made to turn the pump without the gear on it.
That is why mine was made. Now I need to learn how to post a picture where it will appear on the post, not as a link.
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'97 Dodge 3500, G56, slightly bombed, A million+ miles, started 2nd million on 8/24/13 Now past 1.3 million and going strong.
 
Old 12-20-2016, 09:08 PM   #22
K204DR
 
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I've done a bunch and always torque to 180. never had a problem. I do use a new lockwasher though.
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Old 12-21-2016, 08:01 PM   #23
Tate
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 95cummins5.9 View Post
I always pop the gear and lightly re tighten it, so after you get it where you want it, she will pop off super easy and not jump
That's the way I always did it, but there are some pumps that are just super touchy and the slightest bump and they'll jump.

As far as the the thin nut not being able to take the torque, it is fine for that. The torque spec for a 8.8 20mm is 210 ft-lbs (285 N-m), and that's the lowest I found. And its the first three threads that take 90% of the clamp force.
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'98 3500 2wd, 24v, 5 spd, p-pumped
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Old 12-22-2016, 07:57 AM   #24
GAmes

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tate View Post
That's the way I always did it, but there are some pumps that are just super touchy and the slightest bump and they'll jump.

As far as the the thin nut not being able to take the torque, it is fine for that. The torque spec for a 8.8 20mm is 210 ft-lbs (285 N-m), and that's the lowest I found. And its the first three threads that take 90% of the clamp force.
My experience has been the same. Besides that the tool cuts down the time.

I'll take your word on the max tq, but I'll stick with spec tq since I've never had a problem. Getting the gear off some time down the road is important to me also.
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'97 Dodge 3500, G56, slightly bombed, A million+ miles, started 2nd million on 8/24/13 Now past 1.3 million and going strong.
 
Old 12-22-2016, 08:17 AM   #25
95cummins5.9
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tate View Post
That's the way I always did it, but there are some pumps that are just super touchy and the slightest bump and they'll jump.

As far as the the thin nut not being able to take the torque, it is fine for that. The torque spec for a 8.8 20mm is 210 ft-lbs (285 N-m), and that's the lowest I found. And its the first three threads that take 90% of the clamp force.
when I got my pump back from seth 3 years ago that 175 torque was what he recommended. Good to know the max she will hold. Thanks.
 
Old 12-22-2016, 08:18 AM   #26
95cummins5.9
 
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Originally Posted by GAmes View Post
My experience has been the same. Besides that the tool cuts down the time.

I'll take your word on the max tq, but I'll stick with spec tq since I've never had a problem. Getting the gear off some time down the road is important to me also.
How many miles currently, Gary?
 
Old 12-24-2016, 06:05 AM   #27
GAmes

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1,267,000 and change. A little over 300k on the current engine. Original p-pump with no repairs other than an oil seal and the original differential with no repairs other than pinion seals and a pr of axle seals. The interior is almost all original too. Dash top, drivers seat bottom, headliner and floor mats have been replaced.
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'97 Dodge 3500, G56, slightly bombed, A million+ miles, started 2nd million on 8/24/13 Now past 1.3 million and going strong.
 
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