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10-23-2017, 11:48 PM
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#1
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Name: Lance
Title: Loner
Status: Not Here
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Albuquerque
Member`s Gallery
Posts: 293
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Blown head gasket, what to do?
I have had a coolant leak between the block and head under the #6 exhaust outlet for a while. I decided to fix it finally.
Plan on:
New Cummins gasket
Isky tool to O ring the block
O rings
ARP lower end studs
New valve seals
60lb springs
Head resurfacing
Anything else I should do while it's off? Any other seals or gaskets I might need? Special tools to make it easier?
__________________
95 2500, 100 plate, 3800 washer mod, BHAF, Auto meter, TC lockup switch, Goerend trans, New Era 435s, water/meth, 6 inch lift, DT track bar, Irok Radial 41s with Staun beadlocks, Atlas springs, 4.10s, Detroit in rear, Lock right in the front
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10-23-2017, 11:52 PM
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#2
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Name: BRE
Title: Too Much Time
Status: Not Here
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Southwest MO
Member`s Gallery
Posts: 12,705
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Here my opinion on the deal... as I stated, my opinion.
1. Check the block to make sure it’s true as well.
2. Spring for a better set of springs.
3. Depending on a lot of things, might look into a tappet cover gasket since you’ll be elbow deep in in it already.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
__________________
Rick
07 Dodge 3500 - Tow mirrors, silencer ring MIA, Spectra air filter.
Quote:
Originally Posted by jfaulkner
There really is nothing better than OEM. That goes for anything from turbos to boobs.
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RIP Dex KCCO
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10-24-2017, 03:57 AM
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#3
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Name: Stox5225
Title: Green Behind the Ears
Status: Not Here
Join Date: Nov 2016
Location: Lillington, NC
Member`s Gallery
Posts: 97
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Certainly thoroughly check the block and head. I had a leak in the same spot. Cracked head in multiple places and slightly warped deck (P.O. beat the piss out of the truck in the mud). I o-ringed the head (easier to replace/fix if something goes wrong).
I used a couple light coats of permatex copper seal-a-gasket on both sides of my Cummins hg. Holding up so far!!!
Don’t be so crazy about a “smooth” surface. The gasket needs something to bite on to. Levelness and cleanliness are the two most important factors. Otherwise, enjoy!!! Straight forward job.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
__________________
1997 Cummins 2500; NV4500HD; SB DD; 315/75R16; 3rd Gen Track Bar; 63/65/14; AFC Live; 7mm DV's; 4 GSK; Mac Rack Plug; Custom Fuel System; 5x.012; Colt Cam Big Stick; 60# Springs; PDD Stage 1 Push Rods; O-Ring Head; Head Studs; Fluidampr; Boost/EGT/FP Gauges
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10-24-2017, 06:42 AM
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#4
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Name: jasonc
Title: Too Much Time
Status: Not Here
Join Date: Nov 2009
Member`s Gallery
Posts: 4,412
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Get the head o-ringed instead of doing the block yourself, make sure the shop doing the head knows what they're doing as far as placement and protrusion. Local shop to me does alot of them, for resurface and rings is $300. Also don't get surprised to see cracks everywhere in the head when you pull it, especially if the trucks been turned up, they all crack and it will be fine, put it back on.
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10-24-2017, 06:37 PM
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#5
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Name: Big Blue24
Title: Comp Diesel Sponsor
Status: Not Here
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Cedar City, UT
Member`s Gallery
Posts: 6,310
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Be sure to do a warm re-torque on the new headgasket setup when you finish the job, take it easy powerwise until you get a good retorque on it or you will be doing the head gasket again.
__________________
95' 2wd Junker Drag Truck
1502 HP Fuel-Only 12mm P7100 Pump
SXE 472 over GTX55 116mm
OEM 12v Block
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10-24-2017, 06:48 PM
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#6
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Name: BRE
Title: Too Much Time
Status: Not Here
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Southwest MO
Member`s Gallery
Posts: 12,705
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Big Blue24
Be sure to do a warm re-torque on the new headgasket setup when you finish the job, take it easy powerwise until you get a good retorque on it or you will be doing the head gasket again.
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Or a retorque period. Everyone has their personal opinion on which retorque style is better.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
__________________
Rick
07 Dodge 3500 - Tow mirrors, silencer ring MIA, Spectra air filter.
Quote:
Originally Posted by jfaulkner
There really is nothing better than OEM. That goes for anything from turbos to boobs.
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RIP Dex KCCO
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10-24-2017, 08:19 PM
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#7
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Name: Stox5225
Title: Green Behind the Ears
Status: Not Here
Join Date: Nov 2016
Location: Lillington, NC
Member`s Gallery
Posts: 97
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I ran mine to operating temp and let it cool then retorqued.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
__________________
1997 Cummins 2500; NV4500HD; SB DD; 315/75R16; 3rd Gen Track Bar; 63/65/14; AFC Live; 7mm DV's; 4 GSK; Mac Rack Plug; Custom Fuel System; 5x.012; Colt Cam Big Stick; 60# Springs; PDD Stage 1 Push Rods; O-Ring Head; Head Studs; Fluidampr; Boost/EGT/FP Gauges
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10-24-2017, 08:25 PM
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#8
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Name: PPUMPFUMMINS
Title: Diesel Enthusiast
Status: Not Here
Join Date: Apr 2017
Location: Pennsylvania
Member`s Gallery
Posts: 128
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No boost until you retorque
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10-24-2017, 11:54 PM
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#9
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Name: Lance
Title: Loner
Status: Not Here
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Albuquerque
Member`s Gallery
Posts: 293
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BRE
Here my opinion on the deal... as I stated, my opinion.
1. Check the block to make sure it’s true as well.
2. Spring for a better set of springs.
3. Depending on a lot of things, might look into a tappet cover gasket since you’ll be elbow deep in in it already.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
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Which springs?
__________________
95 2500, 100 plate, 3800 washer mod, BHAF, Auto meter, TC lockup switch, Goerend trans, New Era 435s, water/meth, 6 inch lift, DT track bar, Irok Radial 41s with Staun beadlocks, Atlas springs, 4.10s, Detroit in rear, Lock right in the front
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10-24-2017, 11:58 PM
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#10
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Name: Lance
Title: Loner
Status: Not Here
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Albuquerque
Member`s Gallery
Posts: 293
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jasonc
Get the head o-ringed instead of doing the block yourself, make sure the shop doing the head knows what they're doing as far as placement and protrusion. Local shop to me does alot of them, for resurface and rings is $300. Also don't get surprised to see cracks everywhere in the head when you pull it, especially if the trucks been turned up, they all crack and it will be fine, put it back on.
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I don't know of any local shops that have done them here. Reason for doing the block instead is it would save me all the freight costs. Unless I'm just not looking in the right places? A friend sent his off to sheid and spent 300+ just for the trip there and back
__________________
95 2500, 100 plate, 3800 washer mod, BHAF, Auto meter, TC lockup switch, Goerend trans, New Era 435s, water/meth, 6 inch lift, DT track bar, Irok Radial 41s with Staun beadlocks, Atlas springs, 4.10s, Detroit in rear, Lock right in the front
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10-25-2017, 01:12 AM
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#11
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Name: Exodus
Title: Too Much Time
Status: Not Here
Join Date: Oct 2010
Member`s Gallery
Posts: 911
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BRE
Or a retorque period. Everyone has their personal opinion on which retorque style is better.
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What torque spec for new/old head bolts? I believe I remember reading 125ft/lbs?
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10-25-2017, 05:40 AM
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#12
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Name: Stox5225
Title: Green Behind the Ears
Status: Not Here
Join Date: Nov 2016
Location: Lillington, NC
Member`s Gallery
Posts: 97
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I found a guy around me who had a honing plate (I did a full rebuild) as he built competition sled pull tractors. I just used a 4x4 forum for my state and asked around for a reputable individual who knows what he’s doing with big engines. He cut my o-rings in my head for me.
Just follow the manufacture’s torque specification including preload and whatnot. You’ll have to retorque to spec after you run it due to heat expansion.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
__________________
1997 Cummins 2500; NV4500HD; SB DD; 315/75R16; 3rd Gen Track Bar; 63/65/14; AFC Live; 7mm DV's; 4 GSK; Mac Rack Plug; Custom Fuel System; 5x.012; Colt Cam Big Stick; 60# Springs; PDD Stage 1 Push Rods; O-Ring Head; Head Studs; Fluidampr; Boost/EGT/FP Gauges
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10-25-2017, 06:20 AM
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#13
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Name: BRE
Title: Too Much Time
Status: Not Here
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Southwest MO
Member`s Gallery
Posts: 12,705
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LORDDiESEL
What torque spec for new/old head bolts? I believe I remember reading 125ft/lbs?
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I’ve ran some to 135ftlbs however I can’t remember what the torque to yield measurement comes out to off the top of my head.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
__________________
Rick
07 Dodge 3500 - Tow mirrors, silencer ring MIA, Spectra air filter.
Quote:
Originally Posted by jfaulkner
There really is nothing better than OEM. That goes for anything from turbos to boobs.
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RIP Dex KCCO
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10-25-2017, 11:11 AM
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#14
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Name: Lance
Title: Loner
Status: Not Here
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Albuquerque
Member`s Gallery
Posts: 293
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What causes the HG to pop right there? The compression is fine and it's not leaking coolant into the oil. Is it possible that the water pump is pressurizing the system too much? Maybe before the thermostat opens up? I noticed the leak slows down if I drive easy but if I rev it high or have high boost the leak gets worse. I did add a coolant bypass on the back of the block and it's tapped into the return line on the heater core hose.
__________________
95 2500, 100 plate, 3800 washer mod, BHAF, Auto meter, TC lockup switch, Goerend trans, New Era 435s, water/meth, 6 inch lift, DT track bar, Irok Radial 41s with Staun beadlocks, Atlas springs, 4.10s, Detroit in rear, Lock right in the front
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10-25-2017, 11:15 AM
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#15
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Name: jasonc
Title: Too Much Time
Status: Not Here
Join Date: Nov 2009
Member`s Gallery
Posts: 4,412
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It lifted the head and cyl press escaped and broke the seal of the gasket.
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10-25-2017, 01:46 PM
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#16
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Name: Lance
Title: Loner
Status: Not Here
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Albuquerque
Member`s Gallery
Posts: 293
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called a few diesel shops in Albuquerque and no one in the entire state does O-rings. They said the send all their heads off out of state to get done. What kind of machine is required for this that a normal machine shop doesn't have?
Also does $400 seem about right for head resurfacing and a valve job?
__________________
95 2500, 100 plate, 3800 washer mod, BHAF, Auto meter, TC lockup switch, Goerend trans, New Era 435s, water/meth, 6 inch lift, DT track bar, Irok Radial 41s with Staun beadlocks, Atlas springs, 4.10s, Detroit in rear, Lock right in the front
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10-25-2017, 05:24 PM
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#17
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Name: chevota84
Title: Too Much Time
Status: Not Here
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Prineville, OR
Member`s Gallery
Posts: 4,926
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lance
called a few diesel shops in Albuquerque and no one in the entire state does O-rings. They said the send all their heads off out of state to get done. What kind of machine is required for this that a normal machine shop doesn't have?
Also does $400 seem about right for head resurfacing and a valve job?
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https://www.summitracing.com/search/...-ringing-tools
Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
__________________
99 Dodge 2500 with stuff
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10-25-2017, 06:00 PM
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#18
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Name: jasonc
Title: Too Much Time
Status: Not Here
Join Date: Nov 2009
Member`s Gallery
Posts: 4,412
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How much is shipping to fl?
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10-25-2017, 07:05 PM
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#19
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Name: Exodus
Title: Too Much Time
Status: Not Here
Join Date: Oct 2010
Member`s Gallery
Posts: 911
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BRE
I’ve ran some to 135ftlbs however I can’t remember what the torque to yield measurement comes out to off the top of my head.
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Thanks! I knew it was somewhere around there. I have a brand new engine that I will have to retorque when I flash her up.
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10-25-2017, 11:28 PM
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#20
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Name: jimbo486
Title: Too Much Time
Status: Not Here
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Orange County, CA
Member`s Gallery
Posts: 1,617
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BRE
I’ve ran some to 135ftlbs however I can’t remember what the torque to yield measurement comes out to off the top of my head.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
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I do know that when I bought new head bolts from Cummins in 2009, they spec'd the torque plus angle method. The final torque value was 89ft lbs and then an additional 90°.
I recall checking them years later and finding that my torque wrench clicked at 125ft lbs but I didn't go beyond that to see where exactly they were.
__________________
1990 Dodge D350
Giles' 12mm VE - Airdog II 165 - 370s @ 75lpm - BW S362fmw/68/12 - Hamilton 182/214 - '01 NV5600
Last edited by jimbo486; 10-25-2017 at 11:30 PM.
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