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Old 09-16-2011, 09:00 PM   #1
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New motor build for the puller

Well I started the build process for the new motor. Y'all know that my last setup broke the cam and bent some valves. It had stock so pistons. So anyway I started off with cam research and contacted Hamilton Zach was super good to deal with and set me up with one of his new steel cams with the 220/240 grinds. I also picked up springs, keepers and retainers.

Next I needed info on pistons. Scheid of course said Aries but I think 2000$+ is a bit much for my weekend warrior considering I didn't make it to one single national event. Plus I was running stockers that I cut the reliefs my self on a Bridgeport mill and they seemed to hold up just fine. So the middle of the road I settled on is stock 04.5-07 commonrail pistons that I will have 4 .120 valve reliefs cut which should put me in the 15:1-15.5:1 compression range. Once they are cut I will get them balanced and coated.

Now for the block. I had the bores checked and they were still perfect for standard piston. All i have to do here is hone the cylindars to be ready to go The cam tunnel is getting bored for cam bearings to go with the steel cam. Check the line hone for the mains and it should be ready to go by the way this was a new block from scheids and is a storm block. It has 14mm headstuds and their firering treatment. It does not hav 14mm main studs but I put the 12pm ARP studs in. Any comments or suggestion on the smaller main studs? I also have the Haisley girdle plate to help it out.

Crank, rods and pistons will all be balanced

Anybody have any comments good or bad about how I'm putting the bottom end together. I will update as things keep coming along. I'm wanting a good runner that will also be fairly consistant and trouble free for next season.

Tim
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99 DODGE 2500 P-PUMP 24v. Hamilton valvetrain, Northeast Diesel fuel and alot of other parts put together.
 
Old 09-16-2011, 09:20 PM   #2
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Polished rods and good rod bolts maybe?

Gonna fill the block some to run 3.0? May help with rigidity.
 
Old 09-16-2011, 09:31 PM   #3
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I have the h-11 rod bolts. I forgot to mention that. I'm am curious about partially filling the block. The problem is what I want to do with the truck. Our local class is the old 2.8 rules except for being a 2.6. But most of our pulls also have some sorta open classes to and we like to run them also. But I would still like to be able to pull 2.6 at scheids and ts. The national events don't allow the filled blocks do they?
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99 DODGE 2500 P-PUMP 24v. Hamilton valvetrain, Northeast Diesel fuel and alot of other parts put together.
 
Old 09-16-2011, 10:08 PM   #4
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What made you go with cr pistons? I've never seen s truck run good with em that wasn't a cr and they're expensive.
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Old 09-16-2011, 10:31 PM   #5
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Originally Posted by BigB82789 View Post
What made you go with cr pistons? I've never seen s truck run good with em that wasn't a cr and they're expensive.
Well, I wanted the bigger bowl to allow me more room for timing. If I stuck with stockers I would have to do more machine work to them to set them up for what I want. The new ones I just need to have the reliefs cut. I wanted something alittle better than stock but I couldn't justify spending the money for Ross or aries which are both over 2 grand. These are 1200$ That might not seem like much to some people but right now my wife is going back to school to get her nursing degree and not working very much so I don't have as much free cash as I used too. But I also was reading some threads on here and seen where Smokem was talking about these so I just decieded to go with them.

What would your suggestion be for some ppump 24v pistons?
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99 DODGE 2500 P-PUMP 24v. Hamilton valvetrain, Northeast Diesel fuel and alot of other parts put together.
 
Old 09-17-2011, 09:56 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ILLINOISRAM View Post
The national events don't allow the filled blocks do they?
I don't see why not. I can see shying away from a billet block, but filling the factory casting should be fine. You don't have to fill it to the top, either.
 
Old 09-18-2011, 08:54 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ILLINOISRAM View Post
Well, I wanted the bigger bowl to allow me more room for timing. If I stuck with stockers I would have to do more machine work to them to set them up for what I want. The new ones I just need to have the reliefs cut. I wanted something alittle better than stock but I couldn't justify spending the money for Ross or aries which are both over 2 grand. These are 1200$ That might not seem like much to some people but right now my wife is going back to school to get her nursing degree and not working very much so I don't have as much free cash as I used too. But I also was reading some threads on here and seen where Smokem was talking about these so I just decieded to go with them.

What would your suggestion be for some ppump 24v pistons?
I think the factory style pistons are fine. Something like the Mahle stock replacement. That or QSB 480's.
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Old 09-18-2011, 09:33 AM   #8
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i think a mahle marine piston would work just fine. you can buy them coated for about $650 a set.
 
Old 09-18-2011, 10:15 AM   #9
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Plans sound great and I wouldnt worry too much about the 12mm mains for your goals. What are you planning for rings?

Ill 2nd the Mahle marines also.
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Old 09-18-2011, 10:36 AM   #10
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I thought the rules used to say, the block must circulate coolant, but i just looked through them and did not see anything about that anymore.
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Old 09-18-2011, 12:07 PM   #11
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Another reason I went with these pistons was when I looked at the Ross piston they were a wide mouth bowl that looked very similar to the 04.5 pistons. And I have to tell the truth here, I got a damn good deal on these cause they were bought to rebuild a motor and the guy changed his plans so they ended up costing me 800$ for pistons, rings and pins. I thought I couldn't hardly turn them down.
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99 DODGE 2500 P-PUMP 24v. Hamilton valvetrain, Northeast Diesel fuel and alot of other parts put together.
 
Old 09-18-2011, 12:10 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lenahan05 View Post
i think a mahle marine piston would work just fine. you can buy them coated for about $650 a set.
Quote:
Originally Posted by RobH View Post
I thought the rules used to say, the block must circulate coolant, but i just looked through them and did not see anything about that anymore.
The way I thought it used to read is it had to circulate coolant but by that you could run it through the head and that would meet the rules
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Old 09-18-2011, 12:20 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BigB82789 View Post
What made you go with cr pistons? I've never seen s truck run good with em that wasn't a cr and they're expensive.
Bowersock's old motor, injectors make a bit of a difference.

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Last edited by Smokem; 09-18-2011 at 12:22 PM.
 
Old 09-18-2011, 12:22 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BigB82789 View Post
Something like the Mahle stock replacement. That or QSB 480's.
Mahle does offer a Marine version of the VP piston. Curious to hear what injector you would use with the QSB piston since it is only a 56mm bowl?
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Old 09-18-2011, 03:08 PM   #15
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I think most of the rules for filled blocks are worded with the term "factory radiator" in stock location. So I would say if you fill the block, partially or full, you would be legal if your still running the radiator in stock location. Just use it to run coolant to the head.

Also x2 on the injectors being used?
 
Old 09-20-2011, 02:55 PM   #16
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Click the image to open in full size. not a real good picture but it's what we have run all year and I think motor runs pretty strong.
 
Old 09-20-2011, 03:01 PM   #17
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that's 5500 on a auto gov. That motor is actually the one I got off of Matt Jones last fall I just changed the cam and cut the pistons

Last edited by jones95runner; 09-20-2011 at 03:08 PM.
 
Old 09-20-2011, 04:03 PM   #18
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Quote:
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Mahle does offer a Marine version of the VP piston. Curious to hear what injector you would use with the QSB piston since it is only a 56mm bowl?
Anything with cr infront of the name makes me gun shy but are they the best option for pp24(not talking arias or ross) or is the marine malhe vp piston better?

Last edited by kleann; 09-20-2011 at 04:04 PM.
 
Old 09-20-2011, 06:25 PM   #19
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Depends on the spray orifice sizing and static timing that is desired.
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Old 09-20-2011, 06:35 PM   #20
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Depends on the spray orifice sizing and static timing that is desired.
What timing on the malhe would they be good for with 150* spray angle?
 
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