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Old 01-10-2012, 01:19 PM   #41
syrupdawg
 
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We always replace tappets the few times we didnt they grab and break...plus they are cheap
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Old 01-10-2012, 01:44 PM   #42
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Makes sense. Cheap insurance.
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Old 01-10-2012, 02:05 PM   #43
burnin oil

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I didn't replace the tappets when I swapped the cam out. This was only because my tray was to thick and the lifter wouldnt clear the block. I had new ones waiting to go in that I would rather have installed. Luckily it was a low milage rebuild so hopefully everything is fine in the long run. I have seen posts from alot of guys that have not changed them. Next time I know to go with a thinner tray and they will get swapped out. As far as performance goes, for me it was night and day difference driving around. My rebuild motor had a Cummins cam (392*090 bus cam) in it that didn't spool very well below 1800 RPM and now I have boost down low and massive amounts of lowend torque. Smoke output is vastly reduced and cruising EGTs are down 150-200 degrees. Light acceleration on the interstate usually doesn't break 650* and I quit looking at the pyro as I am fuel limited till my new injectors show up. The power band is definatly improved but I wouldn't waste my time on a stock truck. Being this is CompD and we all are adding power I would add this to the must do list. I should of done it when the motor was swapped (money). Honestly I believe that you should do the basic pump mods, upgrade the turbo, and then swap the bump stick as it made that much of a difference. I really like the 181/210 Hamilton and am curious of how much better the 188 is that was just getting ready to get produced when I purchased the 181. I have seen a few guys actually talking about pulling the 188s out due to to much torque!
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Last edited by burnin oil; 01-10-2012 at 02:07 PM.
 
Old 01-10-2012, 02:11 PM   #44
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When working for Cummins we had a stock cam failure around one ever month or two, 12v's and 24v's. You dont hear about them much because most of the people it happens to are not on the internet.
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Anybody that would not haul a dinosaur for an orphanage is no friend of mine.
To some people it's all about money. Geez
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Old 01-10-2012, 02:39 PM   #45
Red Sleeper
 
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Originally Posted by Lostnwalmart View Post
When working for Cummins we had a stock cam failure around one ever month or two, 12v's and 24v's. You dont hear about them much because most of the people it happens to are not on the internet.
On stock motors? Normal oil change intervals?
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Old 01-10-2012, 02:48 PM   #46
Lostnwalmart
 
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cant say normal oil change intervals and each truck was different some times a cr some times a 12v some times a 24v just each was different. But its not uncommon.
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Anybody that would not haul a dinosaur for an orphanage is no friend of mine.
To some people it's all about money. Geez
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Old 01-10-2012, 04:07 PM   #47
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My ~60,000 mile Maxspool will be coming out hopefully next month for a Hamilton 188/220, I'll post pics of it good or bad just for the info. I've used zinc additive or Rev-X at every oil change.
I won't have any driving impressions to give because the whole truck will be getting redone over the next several months....
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Old 01-10-2012, 04:11 PM   #48
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lostnwalmart View Post
When working for Cummins we had a stock cam failure around one ever month or two, 12v's and 24v's. You dont hear about them much because most of the people it happens to are not on the internet.
I've scrapped more junk stock cams that I can count. Probably half the engines I've been into have a cam that I wouldn't put back in. Seems like the industrial and medium duty truck world is alot harder on them than the light truck world.
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Old 01-10-2012, 04:14 PM   #49
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 9724VF350 View Post
I've scrapped more junk stock cams that I can count. Probably half the engines I've been into have a cam that I wouldn't put back in. Seems like the industrial and medium duty truck world is alot harder on them than the light truck world.
I would like to think it was the oil and amount of changes. My truck has had Valvoline Premium Blue since I bought it and pulled the stock cam at 170K. The thing looked mint to me. A educated eye might have said other wise, but it was flawless as far as wear that I could see. I've changed the oil every 5000 since it was new.
 
Old 01-10-2012, 05:12 PM   #50
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I swapped my stock cam out of a Helix 2 cam and noticed a difference in spool up and egts dropped. I then pulled and sold that cam when I got a deal on a 181/210 and noticed even better spool up and the egts dropped a little more. I have about 30-40k miles on my 181/210 and the valve lash is still right where I set it. I would love to try a 188/220 to see the difference.
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Old 01-10-2012, 06:30 PM   #51
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SHughes View Post
So are Diesel Pro's cams I believe.
You are correct . I ran the killer b and on my truck it spooled 250 rpm sooner and reduced the egts by average of 150 . The powerband was broader as well it made the truck a fun dd . I just wish I had done the right thing and checked clearance's when I installed it . Since then and with a different long block I have run the 181/210 and now currently the 188/220 but I can't give any feedback back on either because there is something causing a slow spool issue since this motor went in .The one thing I can comment on about Hamilton most of you already know. The customer service is second to none. I am in the process of building a new motor and have a new DP-4 sitting on the bench ready to go in . I might put the DP-4 in and then try the 188/220 just for the fun of it .
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Old 01-10-2012, 06:59 PM   #52
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i will be one of the first to say that i hesitated for a long time before putting a cam in.. now even with having had some issues in the past i would not own a truck that doesnt have a cam in it.. it makes our diesel motors do what they do better and thats why we have them.. i would never dream of using the twins i have without a cam and with one they are unbelievably street/towing friendly.. cams just flat work.
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Old 01-10-2012, 07:04 PM   #53
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Quote:
Originally Posted by High Cotton View Post
What is the consensus with the failures? Bad blanks, bad grinds, or problems caused by wrong valve springs?
Not good enough oil.
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Old 01-10-2012, 07:05 PM   #54
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BLOWN84 View Post
You are correct . I ran the killer b and on my truck it spooled 250 rpm sooner and reduced the egts by average of 150 . The powerband was broader as well it made the truck a fun dd . I just wish I had done the right thing and checked clearance's when I installed it . Since then and with a different long block I have run the 181/210 and now currently the 188/220 but I can't give any feedback back on either because there is something causing a slow spool issue since this motor went in .The one thing I can comment on about Hamilton most of you already know. The customer service is second to none. I am in the process of building a new motor and have a new DP-4 sitting on the bench ready to go in . I might put the DP-4 in and then try the 188/220 just for the fun of it .
Please do.
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RIP DEX

2001 2500 2wd
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Walbro 392
Goff diesel injection
160hp pump
6x.013's by Weston
HTT 62/71/13 over FI 82/92/1.10
Levi's turbo blankets!
 
Old 01-10-2012, 07:08 PM   #55
bsmith
 
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F1= good injectors.
F1=shıtty cams and ok valve springs
F1 hyped up too much on dtr!

Bsmith=2 steel reserves
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RIP DEX

2001 2500 2wd
Diesel pro's cam
Walbro 392
Goff diesel injection
160hp pump
6x.013's by Weston
HTT 62/71/13 over FI 82/92/1.10
Levi's turbo blankets!
 
Old 01-10-2012, 07:23 PM   #56
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I have 20k miles on my new maxspool (not a regrind) and his valve springs along with new tappets. If i can this spring i would like to take a peek at it. I used zinc twice. On first start up and then first oil change after 3000 miles. Still runs strong. With all i read about cams i think it is worth a look. It runs the same as day one, strong......Yes i know, dont say it.
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Old 01-10-2012, 07:41 PM   #57
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Joesixpack View Post
I've got that 188/220 on the bench and will be doing a direct comparison against the stocker on a super flow load cell with all the instrumentation hooked up. Will be able to compare everything from egts,boost,back pressure you name it between the curves.

When I went back to stock from the H2 I'm positive I've got better bottom end and spool out of the stocker.....
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Originally Posted by SHughes View Post
For the love of peat, please take some videos too!!!!
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Originally Posted by wideopen View Post
That would be awesome!

These! ^^
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Old 01-10-2012, 07:47 PM   #58
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Quote:
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F1= good injectors.
Riiiiight....
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Old 01-10-2012, 07:59 PM   #59
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bsmith View Post
F1= good injectors.
F1=shıtty cams and ok valve springs
F1 hyped up too much on dtr!

Bsmith=2 steel reserves
F1= excellent 24V injectors.
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Old 01-10-2012, 08:26 PM   #60
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F1= excellent 24V injectors.
With my limited experiences, the F1's have been the best thus far.
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That statement just reduced the collective IQ of the entire forum.
 
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