Air To H20 Cooler Parts......

We run a air to water on both are 3.0 and 2.8 truck. It drops are air temp from 550 to 60-90. On the dyno we seen the most HP difference when we got the temp below 100. we seen around 30 to 50 hp gain when the temp was 100, any lower and HP gain will go up.
 
TheWrench said:
We ran them on 2 trucks last season no significant gain in performancejust weight that you can't have out front I switched to an aftermarket air to air and them temp before and after was about the same.
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Air to water is at least 15% more efficient. Something was up with your setup then. If you ran ice water, you should have picked up another 100 cfm.
 
timlb703 said:
Frozenboost.com
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Their 1,200 hp kit is tiny.....


This is much better....
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An air to water cooler is much more efficent for 300 ft and it will make you more power. brandon we put one the maddog truck that we built for the 3inch class and with a good pump you are going to burn at least 40 lbs of ice with just enough water in the cooler to get the system full.
 
It also helps spoolup time tremendously on an automatic. I went from 30-45 to 10 seconds spoolup time.
 
Just be care full and get a good inter cooler. Not all of the ones out there will take high boost. Heck, even the smoker tractor IC I have wouldn't take a lot of boost.
 
3.5" for the air. -12AN for the water inlets on bottom and outlets on top. This one is a double core design. It sits between the two stages, it cools the charge from the big turbo. The outlet of the s510 is 3.5" so i just kept with that pipe sizing up to the small turbo.

Lol at your sig.... it's right though.
 
Thanks Erick - figured it had to be 3 something from the bucket... that doesn't look like a Treadstone - guess it could still have their bar & plate cores. Did ya make it or buy it? :pop:
 
Lol... yeah, that 5 gallon bucket doesn't look too big under the intercooler.

I bought it. It is from Bell Intercoolers. http://www.bellintercoolers.com/pages/about.html

You tell them what space you have and they will make if for you. They are not cheap, but Gerhard knows his stuff. (little hard to understand also). Pius is the one that recommended him to me.

You'll need a rough number on your cfm flow. My setup will be around 1,900 to 2,000 cfm, so I had them build it for 2000+. Also you need to know the pressure rating it needs to be. Mine is at 80 psi. They will set you up with a flow rate for cooling also. I have a 35 gph pump on mine. In the bed is a heat exchanger I had made at a local radiator shop and then it has an 8 gallon plastic reservoir off to the side. I can up the size of the tank if i want. This lets you fill it up with ice and water to top it off.
 
What kind of a difference does it make - do you have any before/after charge-air temps, boost #s or dyno HP to compare?

Your chargers ought to be big enough to flow over 140lbs/min (sounds like 1K HP of #2), but I'm interested in how much of a benefit the air/water IC is when the secondary isn't being leaned on so much.
 
XLR8R said:
What kind of a difference does it make - do you have any before/after charge-air temps, boost #s or dyno HP to compare?

Your chargers ought to be big enough to flow over 140lbs/min (sounds like 1K HP of #2), but I'm interested in how much of a benefit the air/water IC is when the secondary isn't being leaned on so much.
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No clue on anything.... This is a brand new setup for me. My old setup was flux 3s, smarty, tst, ez, and *nx* , super B special. It made 870 but the head gasket didn't like it. I lifted the head on the dyno, but was able to run it for another couple of months.

I've been building this setup forever, finally getting very close putting it on the dyno. We'll see what happens. It is a crazy tight fit. In the middle of the fab work....
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I started to do the homework on it a couple of months before i started the project. Right now there is no heater or AC hooked up. It can be done, but custom lines need to be made. The PCM is in the cowling now. No more shock tower either.
 
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