Puller Transfer Case NP205 or NP241DLD

DISTURBED said:
What's it going in? Hp/tq?
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My 1977 HighBoy - Compounds, estimate 600 or so HP, 1200 ft*lbs, 40" tires. Mostly daily driver but would like to be able to use 4x4 every once in a while. I just figured the pullers would push every case to the limit and have a better idea of which one would hold up.

Would love a NP271, just don't have the length to run one without bad driveshaft angle and then I would have to clock it so much to fit in the narrow frame rails.
 
I could break np205's with my 78 with a 460 (500hp ish) sitting 44's with 4.88 gear just about on command back in the day. good case for gas off road stuff, not 1200 ft lbs of tq and 40's.

my 2 cents
 
Tobin said:
My 1977 HighBoy - Compounds, estimate 600 or so HP, 1200 ft*lbs, 40" tires. Mostly daily driver but would like to be able to use 4x4 every once in a while. I just figured the pullers would push every case to the limit and have a better idea of which one would hold up.

Would love a NP271, just don't have the length to run one without bad driveshaft angle and then I would have to clock it so much to fit in the narrow frame rails.
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The 241DLD will last longer than the 205 but it won't last long with your setup. 205 case are weak. You would be money ahead to just get a 241DHD
 
DISTURBED said:
The 241DLD will last longer than the 205 but it won't last long with your setup. 205 case are weak. You would be money ahead to just get a 241DHD
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I have a 241DHD, BUT no slip yoke eliminator available for it and I really need to kill some transfer case length. I have some bad driveshaft angles and need to run a double cardan joint. The slip yoke is what is killing me.

I asked over at Pirate4x4 and they rave on how tough the NP205 is, but I just don't think they understand the Cummins torque. I think they are more used to mild gas engine.

Any other cases to run? I could use something with a drop, possibly a divorced case.
 
well aware of the problem with a married transfer case. and the comment was specifically for the front axle. I can get you pictures of my truck after work. if I can find them. its also helpful to eliminate the 2 part cv joint and just make it a one joint piece and clean the casting us to allow for more drive shaft droop.

my old 78 had 23 inches of total lift. 6 body. rclb and was a perfectly functioning 4x4 using a np205. rolling the hog head in the front a few degrees and manufacturing a degree block for the driver side is how one makes this work if you choose to stay married.
 
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Can barley see the drive shaft in there. Somewhere i have a nice suspension picture.


Man im a terrible reader. Front is good (somehow) back is the problem. My bad.
 

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turbo2387 said:
Can barley see the drive shaft in there. Somewhere i have a nice suspension picture.


Man im a terrible reader. Front is good (somehow) back is the problem. My bad.
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Cool, would love to see some more suspension pictures. Did you have a double cardan joint in the rear? That is what I plan to run.

For the front, if there is any issue, I can easily clock the case. Not worried about it at all plus it will have a double cardan joint and won't be used much.
 
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the back is easy as you can just buy degree blocks. I ran a standard driveshaft with 2 joints and a slip that was cut to the proper length an d balanced by Pattersons in Indy. nothing fancy. the front end is the sharp angle with a married t-case. tons more work with a big lift.

and the front should be your worry. with the steep angles if you don't have things just right the first time you rap on it the joint will break. wipe out an oil pan and rip the nose off the t-case and you will be sad.
 
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turbo2387 said:
the back is easy as you can just buy degree blocks. I ran a standard driveshaft with 2 joints and a slip that was cut to the proper length an d balanced by Pattersons in Indy. nothing fancy. the front end is the sharp angle with a married t-case. tons more work with a big lift.

and the front should be your worry. with the steep angles if you don't have things just right the first time you rap on it the joint will break. wipe out an oil pan and rip the nose off the t-case and you will be sad.
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No, you can't just rotate a rear axle up. The U-joints need to be at opposite but equal angles, so they cancel each other out. This is not true with a double cardan joint which the axle joint can be at about 1* (to rotate the bearings some). This is the problem though, the NP241DHD doesn't have the option to run a SYE, so a double cardan joint gets real goofy and sits way too far back.

The front axle is not my worry. The driveshaft angle is fine and I can easily clock the transfer case if needed.
 
jones95runner said:
Been awhile, but the ford 271dhd has a flange on it and not a slip yoke. Just going off pictures on internet might save you some room. But the 271 is a nice case. And what most run if not a 241dhd. Might have to swap the input to the right one. But not hard. Np271 Transfer Case - Photo 58120312 - 2013 Ford F-250 - Project Super Dirty: Part 6
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Yep, would love to run but to fit in a highboy frame, I would have to clock it way down to clear the frame rails. and the Ford case with a flange is very long. Trust me, that is the case I would like to run.
 
Tobin said:
Yep, would love to run but to fit in a highboy frame, I would have to clock it way down to clear the frame rails. and the Ford case with a flange is very long. Trust me, that is the case I would like to run.
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I have one of the Ford 271's here actually
 
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