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Old 10-29-2014, 03:59 PM   #101
F8L GTO

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Retorqued the head studs last night since its been about 6 months, although very few miles and heat cycles. Most of the nuts tightened about 5 deg @130ftlbs. Is that normal?

Also is it necessary to do a hot and cold retorque every time or is just the cold retorque sufficient. Haisley instructions didn't say explicitly.

Also installed the afc and #100 fuel plate but have not driven it yet. I didnt want the high manifold pressure to hurt the diaphragm in the afc so I made a spring valve to bleed off manifold pressure from the afc line after it reaches full travel.
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1997 1500 RCSB, 24v, nv5600, SB 3600DD, 12mm Scheid Ppump, s364/s480, 7x.014, .093 lines/tubes, Colt stg4 cam, Scheid adjustable timing gear, AirDog2

Last edited by F8L GTO; 10-29-2014 at 04:00 PM.
 
Old 10-29-2014, 04:25 PM   #102
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Quote:
Originally Posted by F8L GTO View Post
I didnt want the high manifold pressure to hurt the diaphragm in the afc so I made a spring valve to bleed off manifold pressure from the afc line after it reaches full travel.
That's a good idea, but I have seen those things with 300,000 miles of use take 80psi and not break. Cummins found magic rubber when they made them!
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Old 10-29-2014, 05:52 PM   #103
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Quote:
Originally Posted by F8L GTO View Post
Retorqued the head studs last night since its been about 6 months, although very few miles and heat cycles. Most of the nuts tightened about 5 deg @130ftlbs. Is that normal?

Also is it necessary to do a hot and cold retorque every time or is just the cold retorque sufficient. Haisley instructions didn't say explicitly.

Also installed the afc and #100 fuel plate but have not driven it yet. I didnt want the high manifold pressure to hurt the diaphragm in the afc so I made a spring valve to bleed off manifold pressure from the afc line after it reaches full travel.
If it was the first retorque, movement is normal. I did several retorques on my 24v, not much movements after the first one. I think I did two on my 12v. All cold. I don't like working on hot engines.
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Old 10-29-2014, 07:06 PM   #104
F8L GTO

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tate View Post
If it was the first retorque, movement is normal. I did several retorques on my 24v, not much movements after the first one. I think I did two on my 12v. All cold. I don't like working on hot engines.
This was my 1st retorque after the initial install (includes one hot and one cold)....I think. Maybe the 2nd.

Drove the truck for a bit. Throttle response is MUCH better. I had the adjustable plate backed down so far that it must have been choking off at anything over 1600rpm or so. It really comes alive now. I think im going to back the star wheel down some more though.
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Old 10-29-2014, 09:08 PM   #105
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Looks much better lowered!
 
Old 12-10-2014, 01:42 PM   #106
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Thanks guys.

Question on rear end gearing. I have a 3.55 gear open diff in the stock 9.25. I would like to change two things. It needs less gear (lower hwy cruising rpm) and i would like some sort of lsd. I havnt found any gear options around 3.07 ish. Am I better off swapping to a 9inch or d60 for more gear options?
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Old 12-10-2014, 02:37 PM   #107
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personal preference is 9" based on all of the available options.

What model of shock did you use?
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Old 12-10-2014, 06:36 PM   #108
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I threw out a 9.25" rear end that had 3.23 gears in it. Came out of a 96' 1500 with a v6 and 5spd. Figured it would have shorter gears, not taller. Point being, you should be able to find those relatively cheap without having to swap rear ends.
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Old 12-10-2014, 09:14 PM   #109
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http://www.ringpinion.com/b2c/Produc...Brand=Chrysler

Here a taller gear. Kinda expensive though.
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Old 12-10-2014, 10:07 PM   #110
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In my 1/2 ton I went with a 9". Found a set of 3.42 Richmond pro gears on eBay and put it all together with a MW center section and a Detroit TruTrac .
 
Old 12-11-2014, 05:13 PM   #111
F8L GTO

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hurley View Post
personal preference is 9" based on all of the available options.

What model of shock did you use?
They are belltech nitro I think. I will get the part number. Their recommendation for a 4" drop in the rear. I tried to find a shorter body shock that came on something oe but didnt have any luck. They were about $65 each.
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Old 12-15-2014, 07:32 AM   #112
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(talking about front shocks only) I have the Nitro-2 drop shocks on the front of my RCSB, and they more or less wore out around 5k miles.
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Old 12-15-2014, 09:25 PM   #113
F8L GTO

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Quote:
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(talking about front shocks only) I have the Nitro-2 drop shocks on the front of my RCSB, and they more or less wore out around 5k miles.
Ahh. I just used stock replacement Monroe Gas magnums. They are the same part# used on the 1ton trucks. Im assuming they wont last long either but they were cheap and available.

How did you lower your truck? I used Belltech 3" 1ton drop springs.
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Last edited by F8L GTO; 12-15-2014 at 09:27 PM.
 
Old 01-21-2015, 12:23 PM   #114
F8L GTO

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I am trying to source a complete ac system if anyone has a good working system they dont need or from a parts truck. Thanks.
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Old 01-21-2015, 12:27 PM   #115
Hurley
 
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I used the same springs on the front of mine, and got the matching Belltech shocks.
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95 2500 RCSB 2wd back-halfed and 4-linked
5x14/7mm +100cc/4k/11-blade billet 63/68/.91 T4
539/989

03 RCLB 4x4, SSR
 
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