Front Driveshaft Issue - Competition Diesel.Com

USARMY12V · 12-26-2012, 07:12 PM

So, when I first purchased my truck, in the run down of maintenance the previous owner had just performed, he mentioned that he had to replace the old front driveshaft as something was wrong with it that I can now not recall. However, he did say that he could not find a 12V driveshaft and therefore replaced it with a newer 24V front driveshaft off of I believe a 99. Well, for the first couple months, I'd never used 4x4. Then one snow storm I used my 4x4 and once I took it out of 4x4, I'd have this weird harmonic resonance or vibration that I assumed was just my u-joint in my right front axle and I replaced it and it went away, or so I thought.

Having only used 4x4 exactly once in the last 14 months, today, I used it again, lo and behold, the resonance was back. Thinking to myself, I'm going to get this bastard home and look at it, naturally I do not make it home before the u-joint explodes. I'm going about 35 mph in 4x4 hi and all of a sudden it lets loose, so does my mouth with words that should not be expressed, but either way. Here I am. My question is, can I use this driveshaft or is it always going to be a problem? He told me it required some bastard u-joint in the first place to use, but I wasn't concerned as I've used 4x4 exactly twice now. I didn't have it for quite awhile as my CAD broke so I wasn't concerned. Now it's winter and I'm having to address this.

Will the 24V front driveshaft work with this bastard u-joint again or do I need to replace it with a 12V shaft? Or perhaps the "new" one is just worn out too??? I don't want a "fix" that's going to require me to re-do it every time I use 4x4 haha. I'd prefer it hold up to boosted launches as well. But I'd settle for just working plain and simple in the mean time.

HightechRedneck · 12-26-2012, 07:41 PM

What trans and transfer case do you have? If its an auto with a dld I have a brand new one sitting here as an option for ya.

We did just get a lot of snow here (8") can't imagine what you guys got in va.

USARMY12V · 12-26-2012, 07:49 PM

47RE DLD. We only got like 4 inches here. But we're getting ice too so it's kind of a pain in the ass. Especially with road crews that you never see. Most of my roads have been plowed by me or farmers :S how much for your driveshaft? They're like $300 new which blows balls.

HightechRedneck · 12-26-2012, 08:03 PM

I got mine from napa just over 400

Sell it to ya for 200 plus ship.

USARMY12V · 12-26-2012, 08:08 PM

Even worse than $300 haha I'm gonna try the $20 fix which is a u joint, if its messed up still I guess a new driveshaft is next.

HightechRedneck · 12-26-2012, 08:24 PM

Yeah It seems like the 12vs have an awkward length. Reason why mine was so much was custom length by napa. Everything they thought it was, was too long and didn't allow any movement.

72chevy · 12-26-2012, 08:26 PM

Sounds like you had a worn ujoint & your front axle was not disconecting causing the vibration after you went back to 2wd. I would replace the bad joint & see if the vibration goes away.

USARMY12V · 12-26-2012, 08:54 PM

It went away when the driveshaft was disconnected this evening so I'm sure it's it. Think it's worth doing my own u joint? How much do shops usually charge for that?

USARMY12V · 12-26-2012, 09:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by HightechRedneck

Yeah It seems like the 12vs have an awkward length. Reason why mine was so much was custom length by napa. Everything they thought it was, was too long and didn't allow any movement.

Is this to say you think the 24V are wrong length and thus my problem? Surely there's someone on here with a 12 and 24 shaft who could measure to see what's the deal.

HightechRedneck · 12-26-2012, 09:14 PM

If you have a vise, needle nose pliers, one socket smaller than the cap, and one larger than the cap you can do it. They are pretty simple and it sounds like yours wasn't that old. I think it will end up being that shaft like maybe its not balanced.

But on YouTube they have change out videos.

On edit.

They seem to be close in length but not exactly the same. Not one shaft we tried from napa in their book would work right so they custom made one. Weird I thought but maybe I'm not the only one.

USARMY12V · 12-26-2012, 09:21 PM

Guess I'll know tomorrow or Friday if it's the shaft hopefully then.

HightechRedneck · 12-26-2012, 09:29 PM

Exactly, try the cheap fixes first. If all else fails let me know 330-314-661five.

I know how it feels when it doesn't work.

72chevy · 12-26-2012, 09:35 PM

As long as the suspension can move through its range of motion without the slip joint bottoming out the length should be fine. As mentioned the shaft could also be out of balance. Replacing the ujoint would be a cheep form of diagnostics though.

CorneliusRox · 12-26-2012, 09:43 PM

It should be the same I believe in 99, but it is usually just the double cardan that makes that noise. They are a lot easier to rebuild than people like to say. If you can replace your own u-joints, you can do this. It does take more time, but you can get it for sure. Just dont lose the spring!

USARMY12V · 12-26-2012, 09:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by HightechRedneck

Exactly, try the cheap fixes first. If all else fails let me know 330-314-661five.

I know how it feels when it doesn't work.

Is your front driveshaft for some reason lacking a CV joint? I mean mine extends and contracts a little bit. They don't technically have to be a perfect length, but close enough?

CPSimpson · 12-26-2012, 10:03 PM

I think the difference would be from 95 to 96 or 47RH to 47RE. Overdrive is longer on the RE, I think.

USARMY12V · 12-26-2012, 10:06 PM

Well I know (well he said) that it came from a newer 24V which are 47RE 241 DLD unit's, so I assume it should be close enough in my case. I've had it off once, it took like 5 minutes to get off then 5 to get back on later. It didn't taking coaxing like it wasn't made for it or something.

USARMY12V · 12-26-2012, 10:21 PM

Also, for any of you guru's, is there any off the shelf u joint better than this MOOG 458 I'm about to buy? I had a Precision 458 which must of been a POS.

nrose07 · 12-26-2012, 10:32 PM

You want a spicer "cold forged". They were factory on my 99'. One of the magazines did a strength test a few years back and they were way ahead of the others, second only to custom Ox u-joints.

USARMY12V · 12-26-2012, 10:46 PM

Part number? I'm going to get this MOOG piece for the mean time. It's only gotta make it a few months haha. I think I need a 1310? If I'm correct...

12-26-2012, 07:12 PM	#1
USARMY12V Name: USARMY12V Title: Rally round the Virginian Status: Not Here Join Date: Jan 2012 Location: Virginia Member`s Gallery Posts: 711	Front Driveshaft Issue So, when I first purchased my truck, in the run down of maintenance the previous owner had just performed, he mentioned that he had to replace the old front driveshaft as something was wrong with it that I can now not recall. However, he did say that he could not find a 12V driveshaft and therefore replaced it with a newer 24V front driveshaft off of I believe a 99. Well, for the first couple months, I'd never used 4x4. Then one snow storm I used my 4x4 and once I took it out of 4x4, I'd have this weird harmonic resonance or vibration that I assumed was just my u-joint in my right front axle and I replaced it and it went away, or so I thought. Having only used 4x4 exactly once in the last 14 months, today, I used it again, lo and behold, the resonance was back. Thinking to myself, I'm going to get this bastard home and look at it, naturally I do not make it home before the u-joint explodes. I'm going about 35 mph in 4x4 hi and all of a sudden it lets loose, so does my mouth with words that should not be expressed, but either way. Here I am. My question is, can I use this driveshaft or is it always going to be a problem? He told me it required some bastard u-joint in the first place to use, but I wasn't concerned as I've used 4x4 exactly twice now. I didn't have it for quite awhile as my CAD broke so I wasn't concerned. Now it's winter and I'm having to address this. Will the 24V front driveshaft work with this bastard u-joint again or do I need to replace it with a 12V shaft? Or perhaps the "new" one is just worn out too??? I don't want a "fix" that's going to require me to re-do it every time I use 4x4 haha. I'd prefer it hold up to boosted launches as well. But I'd settle for just working plain and simple in the mean time. __________________ -Chris "God gave them 24 for those too dumb to use 12." Be a happy dinosaur 1998 QCLB 5.9 Auto Under the Knife 2010 MCSB 6.7 68RFE Draconian MCC soon to be EFI, Deleted Last edited by USARMY12V; 12-26-2012 at 07:14 PM.

12-26-2012, 07:41 PM	#2
HightechRedneck Name: HightechRedneck Title: Too Much Time Status: Not Here Join Date: Mar 2010 Location: Northeast Ohio Member`s Gallery Posts: 2,753	What trans and transfer case do you have? If its an auto with a dld I have a brand new one sitting here as an option for ya. We did just get a lot of snow here (8") can't imagine what you guys got in va. __________________ Dustin Bagged 00 Jetta big turbo TDI - DRTY DZL Bagged 03 Jetta Wagon TDI - DALY DZL 07 Dodge Ram Dually 12v swapped g56 - HULN DZL ISSPRO GAUGES, XS BATTERY DÜRTY DZL PERFORMANCE

12-26-2012, 07:49 PM	#3
USARMY12V Name: USARMY12V Title: Rally round the Virginian Status: Not Here Join Date: Jan 2012 Location: Virginia Member`s Gallery Posts: 711	47RE DLD. We only got like 4 inches here. But we're getting ice too so it's kind of a pain in the ass. Especially with road crews that you never see. Most of my roads have been plowed by me or farmers :S how much for your driveshaft? They're like $300 new which blows balls. __________________ -Chris "God gave them 24 for those too dumb to use 12." Be a happy dinosaur 1998 QCLB 5.9 Auto Under the Knife 2010 MCSB 6.7 68RFE Draconian MCC soon to be EFI, Deleted

12-26-2012, 08:03 PM	#4
HightechRedneck Name: HightechRedneck Title: Too Much Time Status: Not Here Join Date: Mar 2010 Location: Northeast Ohio Member`s Gallery Posts: 2,753	I got mine from napa just over 400 Sell it to ya for 200 plus ship. __________________ Dustin Bagged 00 Jetta big turbo TDI - DRTY DZL Bagged 03 Jetta Wagon TDI - DALY DZL 07 Dodge Ram Dually 12v swapped g56 - HULN DZL ISSPRO GAUGES, XS BATTERY DÜRTY DZL PERFORMANCE

12-26-2012, 08:08 PM	#5
USARMY12V Name: USARMY12V Title: Rally round the Virginian Status: Not Here Join Date: Jan 2012 Location: Virginia Member`s Gallery Posts: 711	Even worse than $300 haha I'm gonna try the $20 fix which is a u joint, if its messed up still I guess a new driveshaft is next. __________________ -Chris "God gave them 24 for those too dumb to use 12." Be a happy dinosaur 1998 QCLB 5.9 Auto Under the Knife 2010 MCSB 6.7 68RFE Draconian MCC soon to be EFI, Deleted

12-26-2012, 08:24 PM	#6
HightechRedneck Name: HightechRedneck Title: Too Much Time Status: Not Here Join Date: Mar 2010 Location: Northeast Ohio Member`s Gallery Posts: 2,753	Yeah It seems like the 12vs have an awkward length. Reason why mine was so much was custom length by napa. Everything they thought it was, was too long and didn't allow any movement. __________________ Dustin Bagged 00 Jetta big turbo TDI - DRTY DZL Bagged 03 Jetta Wagon TDI - DALY DZL 07 Dodge Ram Dually 12v swapped g56 - HULN DZL ISSPRO GAUGES, XS BATTERY DÜRTY DZL PERFORMANCE

12-26-2012, 08:26 PM	#7
72chevy Name: 72chevy Title: Too Much Time Status: Not Here Join Date: Jun 2008 Member`s Gallery Posts: 418	Sounds like you had a worn ujoint & your front axle was not disconecting causing the vibration after you went back to 2wd. I would replace the bad joint & see if the vibration goes away. __________________ 72 chevy 12v 913 pump 100 plate 4k gsk 5X14 inj htt 62 65 13ss/gt4202R, d60 front d80 rear nv4500 12.90 @ 105.xx

12-26-2012, 08:54 PM	#8
USARMY12V Name: USARMY12V Title: Rally round the Virginian Status: Not Here Join Date: Jan 2012 Location: Virginia Member`s Gallery Posts: 711	It went away when the driveshaft was disconnected this evening so I'm sure it's it. Think it's worth doing my own u joint? How much do shops usually charge for that? __________________ -Chris "God gave them 24 for those too dumb to use 12." Be a happy dinosaur 1998 QCLB 5.9 Auto Under the Knife 2010 MCSB 6.7 68RFE Draconian MCC soon to be EFI, Deleted

12-26-2012, 09:14 PM	#10
HightechRedneck Name: HightechRedneck Title: Too Much Time Status: Not Here Join Date: Mar 2010 Location: Northeast Ohio Member`s Gallery Posts: 2,753	If you have a vise, needle nose pliers, one socket smaller than the cap, and one larger than the cap you can do it. They are pretty simple and it sounds like yours wasn't that old. I think it will end up being that shaft like maybe its not balanced. But on YouTube they have change out videos. On edit. They seem to be close in length but not exactly the same. Not one shaft we tried from napa in their book would work right so they custom made one. Weird I thought but maybe I'm not the only one. __________________ Dustin Bagged 00 Jetta big turbo TDI - DRTY DZL Bagged 03 Jetta Wagon TDI - DALY DZL 07 Dodge Ram Dually 12v swapped g56 - HULN DZL ISSPRO GAUGES, XS BATTERY DÜRTY DZL PERFORMANCE Last edited by HightechRedneck; 12-26-2012 at 09:15 PM.

12-26-2012, 09:21 PM	#11
USARMY12V Name: USARMY12V Title: Rally round the Virginian Status: Not Here Join Date: Jan 2012 Location: Virginia Member`s Gallery Posts: 711	Guess I'll know tomorrow or Friday if it's the shaft hopefully then. __________________ -Chris "God gave them 24 for those too dumb to use 12." Be a happy dinosaur 1998 QCLB 5.9 Auto Under the Knife 2010 MCSB 6.7 68RFE Draconian MCC soon to be EFI, Deleted

12-26-2012, 09:29 PM	#12
HightechRedneck Name: HightechRedneck Title: Too Much Time Status: Not Here Join Date: Mar 2010 Location: Northeast Ohio Member`s Gallery Posts: 2,753	Exactly, try the cheap fixes first. If all else fails let me know 330-314-661five. I know how it feels when it doesn't work. __________________ Dustin Bagged 00 Jetta big turbo TDI - DRTY DZL Bagged 03 Jetta Wagon TDI - DALY DZL 07 Dodge Ram Dually 12v swapped g56 - HULN DZL ISSPRO GAUGES, XS BATTERY DÜRTY DZL PERFORMANCE

12-26-2012, 09:35 PM	#13
72chevy Name: 72chevy Title: Too Much Time Status: Not Here Join Date: Jun 2008 Member`s Gallery Posts: 418	As long as the suspension can move through its range of motion without the slip joint bottoming out the length should be fine. As mentioned the shaft could also be out of balance. Replacing the ujoint would be a cheep form of diagnostics though. __________________ 72 chevy 12v 913 pump 100 plate 4k gsk 5X14 inj htt 62 65 13ss/gt4202R, d60 front d80 rear nv4500 12.90 @ 105.xx

12-26-2012, 09:43 PM	#14
CorneliusRox Name: CorneliusRox Title: Seasoned Rookie Status: Not Here Join Date: Dec 2012 Location: Detroit, MI Member`s Gallery Posts: 4,154	It should be the same I believe in 99, but it is usually just the double cardan that makes that noise. They are a lot easier to rebuild than people like to say. If you can replace your own u-joints, you can do this. It does take more time, but you can get it for sure. Just dont lose the spring! __________________ Corey - BSME '21 Tesla Model 3 Perf '22 DMax AT4 2500

12-26-2012, 10:03 PM	#16
CPSimpson Name: CPSimpson Title: Too Much Time Status: Not Here Join Date: Sep 2006 Member`s Gallery Posts: 1,212	I think the difference would be from 95 to 96 or 47RH to 47RE. Overdrive is longer on the RE, I think.

12-26-2012, 10:06 PM	#17
USARMY12V Name: USARMY12V Title: Rally round the Virginian Status: Not Here Join Date: Jan 2012 Location: Virginia Member`s Gallery Posts: 711	Well I know (well he said) that it came from a newer 24V which are 47RE 241 DLD unit's, so I assume it should be close enough in my case. I've had it off once, it took like 5 minutes to get off then 5 to get back on later. It didn't taking coaxing like it wasn't made for it or something. __________________ -Chris "God gave them 24 for those too dumb to use 12." Be a happy dinosaur 1998 QCLB 5.9 Auto Under the Knife 2010 MCSB 6.7 68RFE Draconian MCC soon to be EFI, Deleted

12-26-2012, 10:21 PM	#18
USARMY12V Name: USARMY12V Title: Rally round the Virginian Status: Not Here Join Date: Jan 2012 Location: Virginia Member`s Gallery Posts: 711	Also, for any of you guru's, is there any off the shelf u joint better than this MOOG 458 I'm about to buy? I had a Precision 458 which must of been a POS. __________________ -Chris "God gave them 24 for those too dumb to use 12." Be a happy dinosaur 1998 QCLB 5.9 Auto Under the Knife 2010 MCSB 6.7 68RFE Draconian MCC soon to be EFI, Deleted

12-26-2012, 10:32 PM	#19
nrose07 Name: nrose07 Title: I love high sulfur Status: Not Here Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: Grants Pass, OR Member`s Gallery Posts: 322	You want a spicer "cold forged". They were factory on my 99'. One of the magazines did a strength test a few years back and they were way ahead of the others, second only to custom Ox u-joints. __________________ 99'4x4SWB,QB,RV's,Hot Juice w/A2,CFM,BD trans,Snow3,4"exh,HPFP95,BD EB,and many more $$$

12-26-2012, 10:46 PM	#20
USARMY12V Name: USARMY12V Title: Rally round the Virginian Status: Not Here Join Date: Jan 2012 Location: Virginia Member`s Gallery Posts: 711	Part number? I'm going to get this MOOG piece for the mean time. It's only gotta make it a few months haha. I think I need a 1310? If I'm correct... __________________ -Chris "God gave them 24 for those too dumb to use 12." Be a happy dinosaur 1998 QCLB 5.9 Auto Under the Knife 2010 MCSB 6.7 68RFE Draconian MCC soon to be EFI, Deleted Last edited by USARMY12V; 12-26-2012 at 10:48 PM.