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Old 01-16-2018, 07:22 AM   #21
Red Sleeper
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SCHMITTY View Post
I should be ok as long as I don't go crazy with the power screw right ? Bigger injectors would make it so I don't need to crank the fuel screw in as far right ?


There's quite a bit left on the table with an unmodified VE. Before my lift pump failure, I had plenty of fuel with stock injectors and stock turbo once the pump was tuned, gov spring, and Denny 2 fuel pin. Running down a 5.3L chevy truck was achievable.

Meaning, take some time to play with the pump. My AFC has the embossment machined flat for more travel, adjusted the star wheel, and fuel screws were turned. Also removed the stock throttle linkage due to slop and wear. Replaced with metal ball & socket ends, all thread in between. Clocked the pump toward the head much as possible.
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Old 01-16-2018, 12:05 PM   #22
SCHMITTY
 
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I showed him your vid . He wants the size injectors you have, plus supporting mods
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Old 01-16-2018, 12:09 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Red Sleeper View Post
There's quite a bit left on the table with an unmodified VE. Before my lift pump failure, I had plenty of fuel with stock injectors and stock turbo once the pump was tuned, gov spring, and Denny 2 fuel pin. Running down a 5.3L chevy truck was achievable.

Meaning, take some time to play with the pump. My AFC has the embossment machined flat for more travel, adjusted the star wheel, and fuel screws were turned. Also removed the stock throttle linkage due to slop and wear. Replaced with metal ball & socket ends, all thread in between. Clocked the pump toward the head much as possible.
I'll re index the linkage, throttle stop, and trim some if needed. He has a gov spring ready to go and I have a an old stock pin I may grind in or he might buy a Denny t stage 2. He's going to have me advance the timing or he may do it himself. I'll check out the afc surface you machined. My neighbor has a mill and lathe so that might be another possibility.
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Old 01-16-2018, 12:35 PM   #24
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Looks like a clean pick up.

Contact M&H about a timings spacer. If the truck has been sitting a decent amount of time resealing the VE is typically a good idea.
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Old 01-16-2018, 12:40 PM   #25
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Agreed. Gov spring install will probably cause the throttle shaft seal to leak. Good practice to have a seal kit on hand at the same time for insurance.
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Old 01-16-2018, 12:53 PM   #26
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Good to know. I'll check around for a seal kit
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Old 01-18-2018, 06:11 PM   #27
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Bosch DGK-121 is the reseal kit. Pretty inexpensive. About $20, IIRC. If you have a fuel injection shop nearby, they should have some.

As mentioned, having the kit will be handy. Replace any seal that's accessible with the top off of the pump.
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Last edited by jimbo486; 01-18-2018 at 06:12 PM.
 
Old 01-18-2018, 06:27 PM   #28
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eBay had one for 20$. Free shipping to Ak. We one pump shop here. His prices reflect that. 300$ just to get injectors popped
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Old 01-19-2018, 12:15 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SCHMITTY View Post
We one pump shop here. His prices reflect that. 300$ just to get injectors popped
lol. Now that’s bush prices at it’s best.
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Old 01-19-2018, 12:56 PM   #30
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I was quoted less. I was already on the fence about building a pop tester and ordering the stuff to do it myself. If I had known that's what the final price was I would have bought new injectors or built the tester.
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Old 01-19-2018, 08:25 PM   #31
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Quote:
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I was already on the fence about building a pop tester and ordering the stuff to do it myself.
As an FYI: http://cppdiesel.com/fuel-injector-s...-pop-pressure/
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Old 01-20-2018, 04:06 AM   #32
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Thanks. The shim package I found before was 150$. I Just dropped the valvebody this evening and took the green tv spring out, and re adjusted the bands and new filter . He put a few hundred miles on the 518.

A previous owner bypassed the pcm for overdrive control. There's 5v feeding the tps and 12v feeding the temp sensor. Everything else on the truck works fine so that would lead me to believe the pcm is ok and maybe the po just wired in keyed power and a ground through a manual overdrive switch because they could figure out the tps or temp sensor. I accidentally left it on while slowing down. I'm pretty sure that's what killed the trans when the previous owner had it.

I took a quick look around for the pcm trying to find the factory wires for the od solenoid .

Where is the pcm and could somebody tell me the pin for overdrive ? I'll keeping looking online tonight
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