Truckers, lets see your rigs!

[malibu795]

Originally Posted by Ram12vcummins

Yup interest is a write off anyway

So are parts...
Loan means payments.. currently don't have payments and I don't what to start again... Just more money I HAVE to make. Raises overhead, and is economy goes to **** I risk losing the leined equipment..

One of my Business goals is to be able to buy everything cash in hand.

[Ram12vcummins]

Doesn't make sense to me to not do it properly the first time. I get what your saying so if that's the case then I'd put the build on the burner till the funds are there.

Also when your truck is down next time for the upgrade there is more money lost.... I hate pissing round that's all. But transport is my living. When the wheels don't turn I don't earn so I don't waste time or money on half built till I can afford it.

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[BRE]

Guess I'm different cause I'm young... the days of paying for things in cash money, seem to be gone if you ask me.

[malibu795]

Originally Posted by Ram12vcummins

Doesn't make sense to me to not do it properly the first time. I get what your saying so if that's the case then I'd put the build on the burner till the funds are there.

Also when your truck is down next time for the upgrade there is more money lost.... I hate pissing round that's all. But transport is my living. When the wheels don't turn I don't earn so I don't waste time or money on half built till I can afford it.

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Maybe I'm little worried about repowering an older chassis with a new electronic engine again, last one I did was some what of a pleasant nightmare. Mainly due to the electronic side of things and harness related. The harness stuff added close to 2 months to the build/repower.

The mechanical Basically eliminate the harness nightmare..

Going mechanical means less problems and things that need done to get the truck up and running.

I'm taking a truck setup for P&D/short haul and setting it up to run OTR @70mph without screaming.
This is more than just an Engine swap...

I'm already have to look at new rear axle to get one that has tall enough gear..
current axle is a RS-15-120 with 3.73.. tallest gear that was made for said was 3.31:1 if they can be found....

Looking hard at meritor MS-17-14X gear option range from 2.64-7.17, with diff lock options.. plus they can be had with HYD disc, air drum and disc brakes. And rated for 50,000lbs

New axle? Idk what that cost, probably match the front as well or where/who to get it from.
Junkyards have them around 1500.00 with HYD brakes plus additional $$$ to swap gears

Also need to swap transmissions current is a rt-8609, plan is to put a rtlo-XX913A in. That's another $4-5000.00

With 245/70/19.5(33") and a .76 OD that's ~1700 at 70mph with 3.31:1
3.08:1 would put cruise at 1600 in top gear and can drop 1-2 gears, while maintaining speed and not screaming the engine.

I've read the peak tq of a 8.3 is 13-1400rpm and peak hp is 1800-1900rpm, replace the stock hx40 with a S362/s364 size turbo. Cruising at 1600 should be pretty close to the sweet spot

Swapping from 22.5 back to 19.5, like to put 6 aluminum rims on.. truck has a 8 lug bolt pattern @275mm? Idk haven't measured that yet.. odd ball bolt pattern.. idk, if I order new axles... I'll get common them with 10 bolt pattern..


While I'd like to have a ISL9, the engine is just part of the whole equation.

[Ram12vcummins]

Originally Posted by malibu795

Maybe I'm little worried about repowering an older chassis with a new electronic engine again, last one I did was some what of a pleasant nightmare. Mainly due to the electronic side of things and harness related. The harness stuff added close to 2 months to the build/repower.



The mechanical Basically eliminate the harness nightmare..



Going mechanical means less problems and things that need done to get the truck up and running.



I'm taking a truck setup for P&D/short haul and setting it up to run OTR @70mph without screaming.

This is more than just an Engine swap...



I'm already have to look at new rear axle to get one that has tall enough gear..

current axle is a RS-15-120 with 3.73.. tallest gear that was made for said was 3.31:1 if they can be found....



Looking hard at meritor MS-17-14X gear option range from 2.64-7.17, with diff lock options.. plus they can be had with HYD disc, air drum and disc brakes. And rated for 50,000lbs



New axle? Idk what that cost, probably match the front as well or where/who to get it from.

Junkyards have them around 1500.00 with HYD brakes plus additional $$$ to swap gears



Also need to swap transmissions current is a rt-8609, plan is to put a rtlo-XX913A in. That's another $4-5000.00



With 245/70/19.5(33") and a .76 OD that's ~1700 at 70mph with 3.31:1

3.08:1 would put cruise at 1600 in top gear and can drop 1-2 gears, while maintaining speed and not screaming the engine.



I've read the peak tq of a 8.3 is 13-1400rpm and peak hp is 1800-1900rpm, replace the stock hx40 with a S362/s364 size turbo. Cruising at 1600 should be pretty close to the sweet spot



Swapping from 22.5 back to 19.5, like to put 6 aluminum rims on.. truck has a 8 lug bolt pattern @275mm? Idk haven't measured that yet.. odd ball bolt pattern.. idk, if I order new axles... I'll get common them with 10 bolt pattern..





While I'd like to have a ISL9, the engine is just part of the whole equation.

Your worrried about an issue because of an improper installation? Good reliable electronic engines are to be had back in the 90's.
Personally I would be buying a truck closer to what I needed not swapping everything on it. 22.5 up here are cheaper and last longer. What mileage are you expecting with this truck loaded?
In my eyes it's seems like you'd be cheaper to buy a tandem axle truck with a 430 ish motor and single it out and up the rear ratio....a mid 90's might cost 10k, then $500 for new driveshaft setup, another $1500 for a differ not gear ratio in the rear. You'd have a reliable truck that has easy to find parts and cheap ones.

That fl will be shook apart and garbage before your done. You couldn't give me a frieghtliner. Haven't seen one dash that didn't rattle and fall apart.


You say you are eliminating the electronic for ease of harness nightmare...but my series 60 will run on blocks on the floor. No truck attached. Will do 12 mpg empty pullin my 9'6" lowbed grossed out at 19,500 kg.

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[RockinRam96]

I think what you're doing is pretty cool. I'd love to do something similar for a hot shot truck or just a camper toter.

In the end it is your build so do as you, please. But I think if you really want to go with an electronic engine do it the first time. As long as the chassis was manufactured pre-2000 your exempt from e-log. I think you're hurting yourself putting a mechanical engine in it the swapping electronic later. You have a truck to keep working now. Finish this truck the way you want the first time.

Also, on the drive train and chassis. Why not put an airliner suspension with a 20,000 lb axle under it. Easy, simple, parts are readily available and you'll get a great ride.

I agree with you on the 13 speed. I love my dads 13. It's almost like driving a pickup.

For wheels and tires I'd stay away from 19.5. I'd defiantly go with 22.5. They're a more common size. Plus I've been told 19.5 ride rough. There is less sidewall to cushion the bumps. Plus if you stay with 22.5s that about $1,800-$2,000 in just wheels you'll be saving on your budget for else where.


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[malibu795]

Originally Posted by RockinRam96

I think what you're doing is pretty cool. I'd love to do something similar for a hot shot truck or just a camper toter.

In the end it is your build so do as you, please. But I think if you really want to go with an electronic engine do it the first time. As long as the chassis was manufactured pre-2000 your exempt from e-log. I think you're hurting yourself putting a mechanical engine in it the swapping electronic later. You have a truck to keep working now. Finish this truck the way you want the first time.

Also, on the drive train and chassis. Why not put an airliner suspension with a 20,000 lb axle under it. Easy, simple, parts are readily available and you'll get a great ride.

I agree with you on the 13 speed. I love my dads 13. It's almost like driving a pickup.

For wheels and tires I'd stay away from 19.5. I'd defiantly go with 22.5. They're a more common size. Plus I've been told 19.5 ride rough. There is less sidewall to cushion the bumps. Plus if you stay with 22.5s that about $1,800-$2,000 in just wheels you'll be saving on your budget for else where.


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Original plan was a 8.3c then Chris Watson mentioned p pumped ISL 9 had been done before, and would allow me to have a engine brake, then another guy mentioned stand alone tunning was available for said engine.. all which sent the whole engine swap down current rabbit whole.. lol.

Been running 19.5 for 300,000+mile between two trucks haven't had an issue with availability

I can swap 6 new 19.5 tires and rims for little more than what the guy payed for 4 new 11r22.5 tires, plus I'm not heavy enough to flex sidewalls of a light 22.5
Answered same question in a my build thread

Originally Posted by malibu795

Weight,
drops frame/truck 4-5"
The GN pin height is maxed out about 38" vertically.. your avg 22.5 is 40-43" tall, trucks frame is 41".. lower the bags too much throws ujoints out and messes up ride quality

225 and 245/70/19.5 are extremely common with class 4/5/6 trucks. Ford 450/550, dodge 4500/5500 and the like chassis trucks, 50/50 on class 6 trucks 650/6500

While they make 245-255/70/22.5 which is mainly used on single/double drop trailer and like.. I have limited dedicated steer/drive tire options compared to 225/70/19.5 and 245/19.5

Another aspect is weight capacity of tire compared to what I'm running.. I have similar issue with the 19.5 and my LMM.. even at the lowest weight rating of 3600(dual)lbs I have 21000lbs of tires on a truck that rarely weighs more than. 13,000lbs, rear end skips like a Mg in bobtail fashion, any slick conditions increases chances of get squirrelly while empty

Same principle applies with 22.5, 6 tires at 5-6000lbs a piece, 30-36k, on a truck that won't weight more than 23k.
You can only let soon much air out to soften ride quality before you risks over heating the tire due to under inflation

[malibu795]

Two good reasons why not to put an electronic engine in..

And I'm pretty sure this isn't a freightliner fuse box.. it would be simpler to strip the stuff out get a 20 some circuit fuse box like painless and wire a mechanical up

Original engine transmission is/was 3126/eso66-7b

[SmokinCAT]

That had nothing to do with the electronic engine, that is freightliners bull crap.

[will24]

Looks like an FL fuse box


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[malibu795]

Originally Posted by SmokinCAT

That had nothing to do with the electronic engine, that is freightliners bull crap.

Cool..

I still have to rip out all the international stuff and figure out what freightliner stuff is missing

[BRE]

I guess I don't see the fascination with mechanical is all about. They are fun to play with, and I enjoyed driving the Bmodel in the 359 but... electronic wins every time

[chevota84]

Originally Posted by BRE

I guess I don't see the fascination with mechanical is all about. They are fun to play with, and I enjoyed driving the Bmodel in the 359 but... electronic wins every time

X2. Power and mileage win for me. This lightly warmed over 550 Cat will run away from my pretty hot B and beat it by almost 1 mpg doing the same work.

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[BRE]

Originally Posted by chevota84

X2. Power and mileage win for me. This lightly warmed over 550 Cat will run away from my pretty hot B and beat it by almost 1 mpg doing the same work.

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And the b you have to baby sit gauges...

[chevota84]

Originally Posted by BRE

And the b you have to baby sit gauges...

That one wasn't too bad, but for the most part I agree.

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[malibu795]

Yes the electrical Engine can/will out run the mechanical...

The electrical could easily add over 100 hours of labor additional to the swap, just to get it working wish the dash to work in just electrical side of things.. that's not including time hunting down a dash and related items that are needed to work

Mechanical
Throttle cable
Fuel solenoid wire
Fuel pressure
Oil
Water
Boost
EGT
Tach
Speedo
Volts
Air pressure gauges

Done

[BRE]

I'd rather have the 100hrs swapping an electronic than the 100hrs of utter pain in the arse it's gonna be on the road.

[chevota84]

10 mpg at 3k a week is 300gal
11 mpg is 272 gal
2$ a gal x 28 is 56$ a week.

So if you figure your time at $50/hr it's less than 2 years.

I really don't see 100 hrs and the difference is probably more than 1 mpg

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[Ram12vcummins]

Electronic engine don't need to run all electronic dashes. Only the speedo an tach. The air an oil pressures an temp are all easy hookups. Vss need to be hooked up regardless of mechanical or electronic. The electronic engines does all its own crap with its own engine harness an ecm mounted right to the block.


Is it gonna get the proper job done when you switch to electronic in the future? When it's your only rig and it's all together?

[chevota84]

Originally Posted by Ram12vcummins

Electronic engine don't need to run all electronic dashes. Only the speedo an tach. The air an oil pressures an temp are all easy hookups. Vss need to be hooked up regardless of mechanical or electronic. The electronic engines does all its own crap with its own engine harness an ecm mounted right to the block.


Is it gonna get the proper job done when you switch to electronic in the future? When it's your only rig and it's all together?

That's pretty much what I figured, the dash needs the same inputs no matter what engine is there. I just haven't been around MD stuff much.

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