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Old 05-05-2017, 01:17 PM   #21
SPEEDSHIFT
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sootie View Post
any skid plates you can do away with? trailer hitch? spare tire?
Yeah, there are still several things I can do to remove weight easily. It still has the receiver hitch and a home made goose neck hitch that is made out of 1" plate. I plan on using a roll pan as well and maybe later on once its faster run a hood stack.

I already removed the spare tire, pass battery and tray, subs, amp, leafs, tailgate, rear seat, and a few other small things.
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Old 05-06-2017, 12:30 AM   #22
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SA raceway is hard to 60ft well at in general, at least on TNT nights. I go out there from time to time testing and generally cut at least a .10 slower 60ft then I normally do at other events. My best 60ft there has been a 1.58 while my best else where has been a 1.39 so I take my times from SA with a grain of salt, I just look at mph to make sure the power is there.
 
Old 05-06-2017, 06:34 AM   #23
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Originally Posted by PhillipF View Post
SA raceway is hard to 60ft well at in general, at least on TNT nights. I go out there from time to time testing and generally cut at least a .10 slower 60ft then I normally do at other events. My best 60ft there has been a 1.58 while my best else where has been a 1.39 so I take my times from SA with a grain of salt, I just look at mph to make sure the power is there.
Yessir, I learned that last night! Ran a 11.44 at 118 with a 1.67 60ft on my first pass when the track was fresh. It was all downhill from there. 11.61 and 11.66s the rest of the night with anything from 15-22lb launches and 1.77 60fts.
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Old 07-25-2017, 12:19 PM   #24
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Guys I am still fighting my 60ft times with this truck. I went out this weekend and couldnt get any better than a 1.80. I really cant say it was the track because a buddy was cutting 1.6xs all night on all terrain tires. It has me looking for a set of drag radials or slicks, but I would rather not spend the money because I know there are guys way faster than me with the same setup.

My setup this weekend:

Stock stall converter
only held 12-15lbs all night
RPM is about 2400 at the launch
35psi front and 25psi rear
Caltracs setup fairly loose
67.7 turbo with 90 housing

The rear tires have a decent amount of tread but are far from new, I also wonder if maybe they are just old hard tires. Maybe the combination on the stock stall and a small, fast lighting turbo is too much power right off the brake.

Any ideas?
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Old 07-25-2017, 01:48 PM   #25
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So is it spinning? A video would help
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Old 07-25-2017, 01:59 PM   #26
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So is it spinning? A video would help
Yes, it spins with anything over 15-18psi depending on the track. I dont have any close up videos, but I will try to post something so yall can get an idea of how it launches.
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Old 07-25-2017, 02:19 PM   #27
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These videos suck, but its about all I got for now.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4ZXi...m-upload_owner

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AiMk2r37Yxs
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Old 07-25-2017, 07:41 PM   #28
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Looking through my data from Friday and it looks like I am holding first gear too long and it is cutting power. Check out the flat spot in my speed. That's either a spin or over reving.Click the image to open in full size.
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Old 07-25-2017, 10:30 PM   #29
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You might do better with a higher stall converter, this will let you leave at lower boost so it doesn't blow off the tires but will allow the engine to rev higher faster to get the power to come in quickly once moving. My theory is if you leave at 10 psi where it sticks the launch, it falls on it's face and comes out too soft. If you leave at 18 psi it comes out hard but leaves the line to violent and spins at the hit.

A go pro mounted under the chassis pointed at the tires will help you see if it's spinning, bouncing, or just dead hooking and not making power early enough. I will say this, in my personal drag racing, each time I've increased the size of the turbos, I had to leave at higher boost to make it light quickly and it required changes to the suspension/tire pressure/bar settings to make it handle the higher boost launch.
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Old 07-25-2017, 10:45 PM   #30
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Are you running a manual Valve body?
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Old 07-26-2017, 06:22 AM   #31
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Originally Posted by Big Blue24 View Post
You might do better with a higher stall converter, this will let you leave at lower boost so it doesn't blow off the tires but will allow the engine to rev higher faster to get the power to come in quickly once moving. My theory is if you leave at 10 psi where it sticks the launch, it falls on it's face and comes out too soft. If you leave at 18 psi it comes out hard but leaves the line to violent and spins at the hit.

A go pro mounted under the chassis pointed at the tires will help you see if it's spinning, bouncing, or just dead hooking and not making power early enough. I will say this, in my personal drag racing, each time I've increased the size of the turbos, I had to leave at higher boost to make it light quickly and it required changes to the suspension/tire pressure/bar settings to make it handle the higher boost launch.
I really feel like a lower stall would help because once you let off the brake and go to WOT it instantly lights and blows the tires off. If it wouldnt build boost quite as fast it would give it time to leave a little softer and hold traction. Either slower spool or tighter stall, I am going to put a larger exhaust housing on it soon, see if that helps.

I will mount a GoPro under the truck before I go next time. I appreciate the help.
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Last edited by SPEEDSHIFT; 07-26-2017 at 06:27 AM.
 
Old 07-26-2017, 06:23 AM   #32
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Are you running a manual Valve body?
Yes, I held 1st too long on this logged pass either because I was sleeping or spinning, looks like it was spinning a little.
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Old 07-26-2017, 08:10 AM   #33
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Get rid of that stupid brotastic technology, and get an Anteater. One less thing to worry about.
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Old 07-26-2017, 08:25 AM   #34
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Get rid of that stupid brotastic technology, and get an Anteater. One less thing to worry about.
LMAO "brotastic technology"

I would love to, but $$$$
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Old 07-26-2017, 01:58 PM   #35
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I'd say you just held it too long. Your mph doesn't spike, just flatlines. Do you have the limiter set at 4k?

I'm not a dodge trans guy, so correct me please. But can't you select OD in first gear then just shift twice? That would soften the hit, and you could potentially leave with more boost by loading the engine harder.
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Old 07-27-2017, 06:13 AM   #36
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Quote:
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I'd say you just held it too long. Your mph doesn't spike, just flatlines. Do you have the limiter set at 4k?

I'm not a dodge trans guy, so correct me please. But can't you select OD in first gear then just shift twice? That would soften the hit, and you could potentially leave with more boost by loading the engine harder.
I have no idea on the OD, that sounds like you're asking for smoked OD clutches to me though.

What about a front locker?
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Old 08-01-2017, 11:46 PM   #37
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I would look at changing to adjustable shocks. It also looks like you are lifting the front end to much.
 
Old 08-02-2017, 07:21 AM   #38
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You ought to try setting your caltracs more aggressive, move the bars up one hole. That would plant the rear tires harder and lift the back of the truck more at launch and help keep the front down.
 
Old 08-06-2017, 01:44 PM   #39
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Here's a slow-mo video of the truck launching on the street at 15psi.

4wd boost launch - YouTube
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Old 08-07-2017, 07:43 PM   #40
they all break

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Front end is coming up to much. I know you want to transfer weight to back but to much and you defeat the purpose of 4x4.
 
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