Will not rev in gear correctly

[desertboy]

Ok i didn't know a good title for the thread but this is the issue. Its a new build on a 300k truck. Head was redone and i have 4k gsk, 5x12's, afc kit (full afc travel at 22 psi), 0 plate, fuel pressure good, home built full trans (dtt kit , billets,valve body. dpc triple)stock turbo at this time. Revs perfectly fine in neutral/park.

In drive it will stall out at 1200 rpm. I can hold the brake and punch it to the floor and it will rise right to 1200. From there it will stall out and i can hold the pedal to the floor for about a minute and it will begin to build boost and take off like it should. This is the stall i imagine with a huge turbo but i have a stock one who already loves high egt's to the point of not being driveable.

Any ideas as right now it's undriveable? My high egt's (500-600) in drive at idle i'm attributing to the hx35 but there maybe a connection.

I couldn't find anything with my search terms and i need to get this thing going so all suggestions/comment are appreciated.

[BgBlDodge]

You should never have 5-600* egt's at idle. Ever. Sounds to me like something in the trans is acting up.

[CorneliusRox]

Originally Posted by BgBlDodge

You should never have 5-600* egt's at idle. Ever. Sounds to me like something in the trans is acting up.

x2

I had something similar when I tore a bunch of junk apart and it would stall after a couple seconds of putting it into drive. Found that I had snagged my TC lock up switch when I was putting a new hydroboost in and it was grounding. Took about 10 seconds to fix.

See if it happens in reverse, that'll narrow it down to the trans pretty quick if reverse is solid.

[desertboy]

Reverse acts exactly the same. It doesn't stall the motor it just doesn't allow rpms to climb almost like i have a 1200 brake stall converter, but hold it there and it will slowly creep to about 1600rpms after a while then rev/drive fine if the rpms stay up.

Also when it is in neutral and park the pedal feels normal. When in a gear the pedal is very stiff like the typical 12v pedal when the motor isn't running.

I should add it was running and driving fine for about 200miles after all the work (high egt's were always there) then this started happening

[BgBlDodge]

Where is your afc housing?

[desertboy]

The afc is currently all the way to the firewall as i adjusted it back to try and limit egt's. The pre-boost screw has been adjusted all over the place in the same attempt but was reset to where the screw is barely moving the afc foot to set it and with full travel occurring at around 25psi on the afc foot.

[BgBlDodge]

As an experiment try sliding it forward some.

[CorneliusRox]

Hook up a fuel pressure gauge just to be sure, and does it smoke like crazy while trying to get it to rev?

If you've got good pressure and it's smoking bad (because it's under the turbo), then I would stop concentrating on the engine and fueling, and start digging into the trans.

Drop the pan and see if there's a bunch of garbage in there.

[desertboy]

Fuel pressure is good, 25-30 at idle. There is no smoke when i put the pedal to the floor and it doesn't raise the rpms, but there is when i happen to get over 1600.

There was limited material in the filter when i did it originally when the problem arose, hasn't been driven except around the block since then.

Didn't get a chance to slide the housing forward this evening but will give it a shot tomorrow night.

[jasonc]

You need to come out with the preboost fuel screw or slide the afc forward if its just setting there under a load (assuming it isn't smoking).

[CorneliusRox]

Originally Posted by desertboy

Fuel pressure is good, 25-30 at idle. There is no smoke when i put the pedal to the floor and it doesn't raise the rpms, but there is when i happen to get over 1600.

There was limited material in the filter when i did it originally when the problem arose, hasn't been driven except around the block since then.

Didn't get a chance to slide the housing forward this evening but will give it a shot tomorrow night.

Check out the fuel shut off solenoid. I had the woodruff key fall out before on the shaft coming out of the pump that the solenoid junk hooks onto (the part that rotates when the solenoid is activated), and so when I put it back together, it was only turning on about 10-15% fuel. It sounded better than your truck, but it was having similar issues.

Maybe give that a check. An easy way is to grab it with vice grips (wrap it in a rag first) and just turn it. You wont be able to kill the engine until you move it back counter-clockwise.

[desertboy]

Cornelius thanks for pointing me in the right direction. The wiring to the shut off solenoid had been messed with long ago and once i had a buddy come over and press the throttle you could see the linkage wasn't moving right. The wiring to the solenoid has been redone and i can now drive the truck in a normal manner as it's getting fuel. Still needs some adjustment as my fiddling has got things a bit out of whack.

I'm curious on my EGT's at idle. What are people with an automatic and 5x12's seeing at idle in gear? In neutral my egt's are in line with my 24v 6spd at 300-350 but even after getting my 12v close on the settings i'm at 500-550 in gear at a stop light. Is this an automatic thing since i've never had an automatic trans before.

[56cummins]

If your stall is too low it will cause high egt.

[CorneliusRox]

Originally Posted by 56cummins

If your stall is too low it will cause high egt.

It's got to be really low for that. I have about 250-300rpm lower stall and mine sits at about 400-450 depending on ambient temp.

[BgBlDodge]

That's what mine always sat at with a 1600 stall.

[CorneliusRox]

Maybe at a stop light if it just came down from 800ish, but if I give mine time, it'll come down to ~400.

If I drive it like a manual and downshift, then lock the converter while coming to a stop, it'll get colder (maybe 200deg), and then while stopped at the sign in drive, it'll rise to the 400ish.