Rear frame strenght idea

[smokinVE]

I have this kinda sorta hillbilly idea. I'm working with a 1st gen so I have a fully open "c" channel frame. I ordered an WFO torque arm kit. So I'll need a cross member to accept one end. Here's my hillbilly idea, using some 2" square 0.25" wall fallow the lower frame rail from rear bumper to the front door area. Drill it and put some 1/2" bolts every 18"-24". In my mind that would be just as good if not better than boxing the frame. Building off of that make a cross member right behind the 205 yoke. Build a cross member that's a bolt in style to my "sub frame". Build off of that to make a drive shaft loop.

Any of that make since?

Anyone see any flaws in my idea'r? I'm open to any suggestions. The torque arm is going to be in a rough environment, light single cab and a hand shaker .

I know this should be in the suspension area, but that's a dead area. If it needs to move then do it. Furthermore sorry for all the random threads. I'm not to a point to make my own thread to keep it exciting.

[TheSilverBullet]

Draw me a picture lol. I'd box it ya hillbilly

[Chris Tobin]

Originally Posted by smokinVE

I have this kinda sorta hillbilly idea. I'm working with a 1st gen so I have a fully open "c" channel frame. I ordered an WFO torque arm kit. So I'll need a cross member to accept one end. Here's my hillbilly idea, using some 2" square 0.25" wall fallow the lower frame rail from rear bumper to the front door area. Drill it and put some 1/2" bolts every 18"-24". In my mind that would be just as good if not better than boxing the frame. Building off of that make a cross member right behind the 205 yoke. Build a cross member that's a bolt in style to my "sub frame". Build off of that to make a drive shaft loop.

Any of that make since?

Anyone see any flaws in my idea'r? I'm open to any suggestions. The torque arm is going to be in a rough environment, light single cab and a hand shaker .

I know this should be in the suspension area, but that's a dead area. If it needs to move then do it. Furthermore sorry for all the random threads. I'm not to a point to make my own thread to keep it exciting.

I'd worry that the holes and bolts will become a weakness rather than a strength... Also is the bottom of the frame completely flat from the rear to the doors? If it bends or curves it would be difficult to make your 2-inch box tubing follow the frame.

Partially boxing the frame where needed would probably be stronger and lighter in the long run... You could build your crossmembers off the boxed portions you add.

[cumminspa75]

Originally Posted by Chris Tobin

Partially boxing the frame where needed would probably be stronger and lighter in the long run... You could build your crossmembers off the boxed portions you add.

I agree with Chris!

[dangerous06]

I would weld it bolts loosen up. So there is nothing on the bottom of the frame all the way to the front doors? Should work I would make the cross beams out of 2x4 or 2x6 box and weld it into the side of the frame to lock it all together.

[smokinVE]

Here's the only picture I have right now of my frame. Until you get to the rear axle "hump" it's 8"x2.25" and every height change is a straight line. Depending on how tall the torque arm ends up being off of the axle I plan on another cross brace above the diff that I can add a drive line hoop and a tie point for a Panhard bar.


This is the design I'm thinking about trying to make work. This is off of WFO's website.


I fully agree boxing the frame would be stronger. Here's my issue, all my brake and fuel lines run inside. I'd rather not go threw the hassle of all of that. I plan on boxing the frame 10-12" front and back of where I make the front cross member. With the 5' kit I ordered that puts me right at the rear of the 205

[Turbo Performance]

Looks like a bunch more work and not as strong as just boxing it. What's the problem with boxing in some of the fuel and brake lines? If you ever need to repair/replace them you could always box it in a way that you could potentially get them out, then run the fresh ones on the outside.

[oldestof11]

Don't box the whole frame. Box 6" of it where the crossmember needs to be.

[smokinVE]

Honestly I was worried about getting a good enough weld on the top rail with the cab still on.

Alright so boxing is the plan now.

Next question, Should I dempel the box plate to add strength? also add some spacers between orginal frame rail and new boxed portion, drill threw it and add some bolts? (I hope that makes since?)..

[Turbo Performance]

Originally Posted by smokinVE

Honestly I was worried about getting a good enough weld on the top rail with the cab still on.

Alright so boxing is the plan now.

Next question, Should I dempel the box plate to add strength? also add some spacers between orginal frame rail and new boxed portion, drill threw it and add some bolts? (I hope that makes since?)..

No. Just put a plate on it.

[oldestof11]

Loosen rear cab bolts, jack up cab slowly.

[Russ Roth]

I did some frame work on my '67 W200 when I rebuilt/rehabbed it. I was making changes that took out a crossmember so with it out I cut some 1/8" steel to fit inside the frame and bolted it in place from the rear front spring hanger to front rear spring hanger, if that makes sense. I have seen a similar thing done on another brand 4x4 where it was bolted on the outside of the frame and even hung a couple inches below.

In my case I have a different crossmember bolted in to include the steel strengthening and used the old crossmember holes for more bolts plus some holes already in the frame. I also drilled a couple where I felt more were needed. Has been in use for about 15 years, nearly 50,000 miles, loaded over GVW a number of times and once grossed 10,700 lbs with rock in the bed. Did NOT drive very well but I have air bags in the rear and easily pumped it up to sit taller than without the rock.

Done this way you can't even tell the reinforcement is even there without some very, very close searching.