Blown head gasket, what to do?

L

Lance

Loner
I have had a coolant leak between the block and head under the #6 exhaust outlet for a while. I decided to fix it finally.

Plan on:
New Cummins gasket
Isky tool to O ring the block
O rings
ARP lower end studs
New valve seals
60lb springs
Head resurfacing

Anything else I should do while it's off? Any other seals or gaskets I might need? Special tools to make it easier?
 
Here my opinion on the deal... as I stated, my opinion.

1. Check the block to make sure it’s true as well.
2. Spring for a better set of springs.
3. Depending on a lot of things, might look into a tappet cover gasket since you’ll be elbow deep in in it already.


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Certainly thoroughly check the block and head. I had a leak in the same spot. Cracked head in multiple places and slightly warped deck (P.O. beat the piss out of the truck in the mud). I o-ringed the head (easier to replace/fix if something goes wrong).

I used a couple light coats of permatex copper seal-a-gasket on both sides of my Cummins hg. Holding up so far!!!

Don’t be so crazy about a “smooth” surface. The gasket needs something to bite on to. Levelness and cleanliness are the two most important factors. Otherwise, enjoy!!! Straight forward job.


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Get the head o-ringed instead of doing the block yourself, make sure the shop doing the head knows what they're doing as far as placement and protrusion. Local shop to me does alot of them, for resurface and rings is $300. Also don't get surprised to see cracks everywhere in the head when you pull it, especially if the trucks been turned up, they all crack and it will be fine, put it back on.
 
Be sure to do a warm re-torque on the new headgasket setup when you finish the job, take it easy powerwise until you get a good retorque on it or you will be doing the head gasket again.
 
Big Blue24 said:
Be sure to do a warm re-torque on the new headgasket setup when you finish the job, take it easy powerwise until you get a good retorque on it or you will be doing the head gasket again.
Click to expand...



Or a retorque period. Everyone has their personal opinion on which retorque style is better.


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BRE said:
Here my opinion on the deal... as I stated, my opinion.

1. Check the block to make sure it’s true as well.
2. Spring for a better set of springs.
3. Depending on a lot of things, might look into a tappet cover gasket since you’ll be elbow deep in in it already.


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Click to expand...

Which springs?
 
jasonc said:
Get the head o-ringed instead of doing the block yourself, make sure the shop doing the head knows what they're doing as far as placement and protrusion. Local shop to me does alot of them, for resurface and rings is $300. Also don't get surprised to see cracks everywhere in the head when you pull it, especially if the trucks been turned up, they all crack and it will be fine, put it back on.
Click to expand...

I don't know of any local shops that have done them here. Reason for doing the block instead is it would save me all the freight costs. Unless I'm just not looking in the right places? A friend sent his off to sheid and spent 300+ just for the trip there and back
 
I found a guy around me who had a honing plate (I did a full rebuild) as he built competition sled pull tractors. I just used a 4x4 forum for my state and asked around for a reputable individual who knows what he’s doing with big engines. He cut my o-rings in my head for me.

Just follow the manufacture’s torque specification including preload and whatnot. You’ll have to retorque to spec after you run it due to heat expansion.


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LORDDiESEL said:
What torque spec for new/old head bolts? I believe I remember reading 125ft/lbs?
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I’ve ran some to 135ftlbs however I can’t remember what the torque to yield measurement comes out to off the top of my head.


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What causes the HG to pop right there? The compression is fine and it's not leaking coolant into the oil. Is it possible that the water pump is pressurizing the system too much? Maybe before the thermostat opens up? I noticed the leak slows down if I drive easy but if I rev it high or have high boost the leak gets worse. I did add a coolant bypass on the back of the block and it's tapped into the return line on the heater core hose.
 
called a few diesel shops in Albuquerque and no one in the entire state does O-rings. They said the send all their heads off out of state to get done. What kind of machine is required for this that a normal machine shop doesn't have?

Also does $400 seem about right for head resurfacing and a valve job?
 
BRE said:
I’ve ran some to 135ftlbs however I can’t remember what the torque to yield measurement comes out to off the top of my head.
Click to expand...

Thanks! I knew it was somewhere around there. I have a brand new engine that I will have to retorque when I flash her up.
 
BRE said:
I’ve ran some to 135ftlbs however I can’t remember what the torque to yield measurement comes out to off the top of my head.


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Click to expand...
I do know that when I bought new head bolts from Cummins in 2009, they spec'd the torque plus angle method. The final torque value was 89ft lbs and then an additional 90°.

I recall checking them years later and finding that my torque wrench clicked at 125ft lbs but I didn't go beyond that to see where exactly they were.
 
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