One-Piece Rear Driveshaft

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01smoker

Diesel Enthusiast
Can somebody give me the specs on a one-piece rear driveshaft for a 2000 quad cab longbed, nv4500, and 241 dhd transfer case? Like length, diameter, wall thickness, yokes, etc. I am having my local machine shop make me one, just need to tell him the specs. Its going on a pulling truck btw. Thanks
 
You need to measure it from center to center.

I have a nice two piece I might be convinced to sell with 1480 yokes and an upgraded carrier bearing, that is the right length.

4" .095 wall should do the trick.
 
4 inch tube with .095 wall 72 inches center to center using 1480 slip yoke on transfer case and 1480 yoke on the dana 80
 
zstroken said:
You need to measure it from center to center.

I have a nice two piece I might be convinced to sell with 1480 yokes and an upgraded carrier bearing, that is the right length.

4" .095 wall should do the trick.
Click to expand...

Yeah I seen your ad in the classifieds, but I wasn't sure if it would work, bein yours is for an auto truck. How much would you have to have out of it?
 
01smoker said:
Can somebody give me the specs on a one-piece rear driveshaft for a 2000 quad cab longbed, nv4500, and 241 dhd transfer case? Like length, diameter, wall thickness, yokes, etc. I am having my local machine shop make me one, just need to tell him the specs. Its going on a pulling truck btw. Thanks
Click to expand...



Just pulling with the truck ?

You would need to measure from the t-case seal to the face of the comp flange on the rear...
That measurement will be the overall length, then they'll need to figure out the tubes length by weld yoke, slip yoke and flange yoke and slip travel....
Might i recommend not using a machine shop, but a driveline shop that does make shafts ALL day long.....
Remember, anyone can weld a piece of something to hold something.....and many good welders do just that...... many good welders that think there just that seem to have a issue with managing to holding a weld yoke to a tube that sees anywhere from 600 ft lbs to as much as 6500 ft lbs or more.....depending...

Now...you need to pick a material also based on many things....weight, power, speed/rpm and length..........you can't make the right shaft until you know all that....

.
 
Mine come from Acme driveline in Decatur IL. They didnt reccomend the one piece for driving but i cant tell any differance between it and the stocker. We have about 550$ in the whole setup for the rear.
 
ILLINOISRAM said:
Mine come from Acme driveline in Decatur IL. They didnt reccomend the one piece for driving but i cant tell any differance between it and the stocker. We have about 550$ in the whole setup for the rear.
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I do 1pc conversions for everyday driving, and you can tell a HUGE difference in performance and mpg.... I don't use stl shafts for 1 pc conversions

You have a 2 pc shaft, so you didn't lose any weight so you won't gain anything in performance or mpg.

We'll have to wait and see exactly what he is doing with his truck and all the particulars............. Another reason not to use a machine shop...
 
I have a 1 piece shaft with no carrier bearing. I dont care about mpg. Im talking about excess vibration and shaft wobble be cause of the lenght of the tube. They only reccomended a lenght of 54 inches i think for street drivers. I did it for one strenght and two ease of removal when working on truck plus i crapped out a few carrier bearings on the stock unit.
 
So you know..... You can run longer then 54"

I have shafts up to 90" and 3 longer then 90"

No vibrations, and they all get better performance and 1.5 to 2 mpg.


My personal truck is 89.5" and does everything other then pull a sled....
 
Also.... length of a shaft and diameter is all dependant on 5 issues.... not saying not to go over 54"

1. how much power
2. 1st gear ratio
3. speed or rpm intended to turn at highest limit of vehicle
4. weight.
5. manual, auto/tc stall

After knowing all of those things.... That and only those 5 things will determine your length and diameter of shaft, along with what series you should use....

.
 
Supershafts said:
Also.... length of a shaft and diameter is all dependant on 5 issues.... not saying not to go over 54"

1. how much power
2. 1st gear ratio
3. speed or rpm intended to turn at highest limit of vehicle
4. weight.
5. manual, auto/tc stall

After knowing all of those things.... That and only those 5 things will determine your length and diameter of shaft, along with what series you should use....

.
Click to expand...

horsepower lets say 800
gear ratio no idea but 3.55 diffs
5000 rpm sled pulling
weight 8000
manual.


what would you reccomend
 
My truck 420hp, 725 ft lbs, however that shaft will handle 8300 ft lbs and 5100 rpm, which means that i still have room for more power.
 
ILLINOISRAM said:
horsepower lets say 800
gear ratio no idea but 3.55 diffs
5000 rpm sled pulling
weight 8000
manual.


what would you reccomend
Click to expand...

5000 rpm is the max rpm while sled pulling? and is that in 1 to 1 or is there a OD involved or you're not in 1 to 1 during the pull

What is the length ?
 
Supershafts said:
5000 rpm is the max rpm while sled pulling? and is that in 1 to 1 or is there a OD involved or you're not in 1 to 1 during the pull

What is the length ?
Click to expand...

5400 rpm leave the line 5000 down the track running low 3rd (16.07 final) 72 inches center of joint to center of joint
 
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