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6.0 Powerstroke Discussion of the 03-06 6.0 |
10-13-2010, 04:35 PM
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#1
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Name: 6.0stroker250
Title: Green Behind the Ears
Status: Not Here
Join Date: Apr 2010
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Posts: 47
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6.0 Head Stud Install Pull the cab? Or No?
Do you have to pull the cab when you do head studs??? i heard you dont and i have heard you do...I wanna do arp studs and really dont wanna pull the cab if i dont have to!!!!
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10-13-2010, 04:37 PM
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#2
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Name: Bustedknuckles
Title: Honey Badger
Status: Not Here
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Hagerstown, MD
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Posts: 1,778
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You have to for studs.
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10-13-2010, 04:57 PM
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#3
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Name: 6.0stroker250
Title: Green Behind the Ears
Status: Not Here
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Posts: 47
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Darn! how about injectors?!?!?! because i wanna build my motor up and dont want to have to pull the cab every time i wanna do something like fuel wise and all that
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10-13-2010, 05:00 PM
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#4
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Name: Sticky
Title: Megaslab
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Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: T- town
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Posts: 1,531
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You can do injectors without pulling the cab
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10-13-2010, 05:19 PM
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#5
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Name: Bustedknuckles
Title: Honey Badger
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Location: Hagerstown, MD
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Posts: 1,778
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You can do most things without pulling the cab. Theirs just no way on headstuds.
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10-13-2010, 05:35 PM
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#6
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Name: LReiff
Title: The Antistock
Status: Not Here
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Newburg, PA
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Posts: 9,201
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We do 6.0L head studs all the time without pulling the body...we do have a few specialty tools and some customized pieces that make it possible...still better than lifting the body.
__________________
Lee
Quote:
Originally Posted by 4x4dually
If anyone thinks the internet is serious they should seriously log off and burn their laptop.
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10-13-2010, 07:53 PM
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#7
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Name: strokin6L
Title: Too Much Time
Status: Not Here
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: springville NY
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Posts: 461
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Yeah you don't hafta pull the cab to do studs, but it does make it alot easier doing them for sure.
__________________
2004 F-350 XLT SC 4x4, SCT, 5" stacks, AFE, LIPD regulated return fuel system, hypermax fire rings, ARP's, water injection, CFM+ large mouth, Casserly 190's, spearco, fluidampr, FASS 150/95 and fuelab pump, Modded FICM(ID), TP 64mm turbo(polished compressor housing)
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10-13-2010, 08:38 PM
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#8
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Name: Dboy11
Title: Resident Closet Gay
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it is possible to do it without lifting the cab, although it takes alot more time!
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10-13-2010, 08:46 PM
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#9
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Name: Bustedknuckles
Title: Honey Badger
Status: Not Here
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Location: Hagerstown, MD
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Posts: 1,778
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I stand corrected. How do you do it? Install the studs in the head and very carefully place the head on the block, then thread studs into block and then torque em?
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10-14-2010, 08:14 AM
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#10
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Name: strokin6L
Title: Too Much Time
Status: Not Here
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: springville NY
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Posts: 461
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you can pull the heater core to get the passanger side ones in.
__________________
2004 F-350 XLT SC 4x4, SCT, 5" stacks, AFE, LIPD regulated return fuel system, hypermax fire rings, ARP's, water injection, CFM+ large mouth, Casserly 190's, spearco, fluidampr, FASS 150/95 and fuelab pump, Modded FICM(ID), TP 64mm turbo(polished compressor housing)
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10-14-2010, 08:46 AM
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#11
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Name: CATmech945
Title: Green Behind the Ears
Status: Not Here
Join Date: Oct 2010
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Posts: 93
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I just pulled the engine out through the front, put the studs in and put the motor back in. You just need to get your A/C recharged, no big deal.
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10-14-2010, 09:03 AM
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#12
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Name: OrangeNV
Title: BISH please
Status: Not Here
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Pittsburgh
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Posts: 5,043
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snap on makes a tool specifically for this now as well, cant remember the number, just google it
__________________
Diesel Ron
SteamFitters local 449
Quote:
Originally Posted by roachie
Nothing is quite as exciting as bare-backing a ginger crack wh0re that is famous.
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MUMAU
RAM BOYZ
KEYSTONE
MANNING
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10-14-2010, 09:09 AM
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#13
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Name: Bustedknuckles
Title: Honey Badger
Status: Not Here
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Hagerstown, MD
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Posts: 1,778
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OrangeNV
snap on makes a tool specifically for this now as well, cant remember the number, just google it
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For regular bolts, doesn't work for studs is what I've heard.
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10-14-2010, 09:13 AM
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#14
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Name: OrangeNV
Title: BISH please
Status: Not Here
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Pittsburgh
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Posts: 5,043
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it just like a crows foot style extension for a rachet
http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item....store&tool=all
__________________
Diesel Ron
SteamFitters local 449
Quote:
Originally Posted by roachie
Nothing is quite as exciting as bare-backing a ginger crack wh0re that is famous.
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MUMAU
RAM BOYZ
KEYSTONE
MANNING
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10-15-2010, 08:31 PM
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#15
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Name: 250stroker
Title: Green Behind the Ears
Status: Not Here
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: PA
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Posts: 37
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if you have access to a lift pull the cab its not that bad.
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10-16-2010, 12:15 PM
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#16
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Name: LReiff
Title: The Antistock
Status: Not Here
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Newburg, PA
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Posts: 9,201
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OrangeNV
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I have this tool...slightly modified because snap-on engineers do not work on trucks...I also have a shortened socket that allows it to be used with the factory head bolts and it also works on head studs.
__________________
Lee
Quote:
Originally Posted by 4x4dually
If anyone thinks the internet is serious they should seriously log off and burn their laptop.
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10-16-2010, 12:37 PM
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#17
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Name: LReiff
Title: The Antistock
Status: Not Here
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Newburg, PA
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Posts: 9,201
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Here's how I do them with the cab in place.
Remove Turbo, Oil/fuel filter unit, Intake man., valve covers, oil rails, stand pipes and injectors.
Loosen all the head bolts, remove the ones that you can easily get out.
Next unbolt the rocker on the rear cylinder (passenger side) pull the rocker and bolt up as far as possible then take a pliers and pull the rocker dowel ring up around the head bolt (the dowel ring is split on one side so a little squeeze allows it to release)
If you haven't by this time, unbolt the exhaust manifold, all other accessories must be removed from the head.
Tilt the outer side of the head up and remove all remaining head bolts, set head back down and remove remaining rockers, push rods etc.
The left side head is easier, the same procedure minus a few steps will get that head off as well without removing the cab.
Leave the rocker box in place until the head is out of the truck.
At this point I use an engine hoist to pull the heads out, put a chain from the center intake man. bolt to the upper center valve cover bolt on each head (this lift the head straight up)
When you're finished...trade it in on a Cummins
__________________
Lee
Quote:
Originally Posted by 4x4dually
If anyone thinks the internet is serious they should seriously log off and burn their laptop.
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10-16-2010, 01:23 PM
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#18
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Name: MacbooknMyTruck
Title: Waiting and Wanting
Status: Not Here
Join Date: Apr 2009
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Posts: 341
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My tech just pulls the front end off the trucks and then pulls the engine.
The only cabs he ever pulls is the 6.4's.
__________________
Blake
2003 Ford F-250 6.0l Powerstroke CC SB Lariat FX4
ARP, RCD, FCDP, MBRP, SCT, XD, Innovative, Nitto, Edge (Gauges only, I swear.)
WTB: ALL 6.0L Injectors
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10-16-2010, 06:30 PM
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#19
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Name: 6.0stroker250
Title: Green Behind the Ears
Status: Not Here
Join Date: Apr 2010
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Posts: 47
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the front end??? what grill? fenders and just pull the engine out???
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10-16-2010, 06:52 PM
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#20
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Name: MacbooknMyTruck
Title: Waiting and Wanting
Status: Not Here
Join Date: Apr 2009
Member`s Gallery
Posts: 341
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He pull the grille, bumper, headlights, and header panel I think. Here's what he did to mine Crappiest pic ever, but you get the idea.
__________________
Blake
2003 Ford F-250 6.0l Powerstroke CC SB Lariat FX4
ARP, RCD, FCDP, MBRP, SCT, XD, Innovative, Nitto, Edge (Gauges only, I swear.)
WTB: ALL 6.0L Injectors
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