*(&*&(%^&%$( turbo

I ran the same charger on my 04. I had an ats t3 24v manifold, a haisley street/towing cam, a slightly ported cylinder head, 200hp eh nozzles, twin cp3s, a tight converter and a lead foot. I had to keep od off untilled the rpm were high enough, the charger didn't light until 1800 rpm and it would smoke enough to shut the road down. It also had a severe traction issue on dry pavement!
 
Headcase98002 said:
Also, try a real manifold like steed speed that's already T4 instead of a cluster.
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I went from a totally stock 24v manifold with a t3/t4 adapter to a steed speed strait outlet T4 manifold and didnt notice much of a difference in cruising egts or 0-5psi spoolup. It did seem to help get from 5psi-15psi when doing a boosted launch though. From what ive seen exhaust manifolds dont make as big of a difference as some people say.

I ran the times in my sig with the stock manifold still on it, just havent made it back to the track to see if the exhaust manifold helped free up any power.
 
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Forrest Nearing said:
I'd go with a smaller turbo or compounds. I'm not sure what you expected, but what you're reporting doesn't sound odd to me
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^ This.

If my truck didn't lite till 2200, I would either change the turbo or let the pyro burn it to the ground and walk away.

Peak boost at 48 is easily attainable with a 66 and driveability will be much improved.

I'm not sure why people like large singles on street driven trucks... especially autos. :doh:
 
Yeah I knew this would t be the best DD Turbo,just didn't know it would be this bad. Guess ill throw more money at it
 
redram04 said:
Just figured it would spool a little better. I see guys running big single and no complaints.
The manifold was a 12v that I opened up to match a 24v gasket. The main porting was done where the Turbo mounts to, just smoothed the corners and took out a bit to gasket match it.
Did porting it destroy my gas velocity. The small housing I thought would cool even worse than what I have.

A cam is in order but not till winter along with a ported head.

Would a billet wheel help any or make it worse due to the heavier wheel.
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A billet wheel would be lighter, which would allow it to spool faster. However you could prob put a 66 or a 69 comp wheel and cover on it for less $, and save your 72 for when you get bigger.
You could try a spool valve but I think they are a little pricey too.
 
Out of all of these suggestions if you are keeping the same turbo I would venture to say the spool flange will result in the biggest drop in part throttle EGTs and largest decrease in spool time.

I'm selling my 67.7mm forced s400 if you're interested. The 67 with the spool flange was very cool runnings on my 12v would think it would be much better with your more street friendly CR.
 
Because if the air comes out of the head into a larger section without a gradual change, then it will loose its volocity and fall on its face. I don't necessarily say the cam will hurt, but the porting will.

I wish I knew the proper terminology so I can sound smart.
 
redram04 said:
well installed a FI s472/83/.91 T4 on a heavily ported pdi T4 manifold with some cpp150's. SO here's the problems,while cruising down the hwy at 80mph i am running around 2200rpm and making about 8psi, rp is 16K but egts are 1100-1200. Smarty tntr, latest update, running sw5 tq1 tm3 rp1. i have changed a bunch of different settings with the smarty and nothing really changes. When i try to climb a hill at 70 or 80 or any speed really the egts will climb to 15-1600 easily and wont cool off. While climbing the hill there isnt any smoke, have a real hard time getting from 10psi to 20psi and egts just skyrocket. On flat ground if i get the charger lit in 3rd gear with the tc locked around 2200rpm then i can build 48psi, rp holds 25K once i am over 2500 rpm or so, but again egts will hit 1600. I have looked everything over, no drive pressure leaks, havent pressure tested the system but i had no leaks prior to the install and only changed one boot with a brand new one.

So any insight as to why it is doing this, i was thinking tc but that shouldnt have any effect once the converter is locked, right? The manifold is wrapped and sometimes it will take over 10 minutes to cool off under 400F. While cruising at 80 i get zero smoke or haze, just high egts and crummy spool. Could low fp to the cp3 cause this. i know i need a bigger cp3 but havent seen a rp issue while watching the gauge, maybe i need more rp down low to help atomize the fuel better.

Well hope to figure this out, lets hear what you have to say.

Truck is current and in my sig.
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mine always ran around 850 deg. i would say mess with the smarty, i always ran mine on sw9 if that dont help you have other issues
 
I just put it on sw9 tq2 tm3 rp2 and it runs much better. Been learning to shift manually, gonna try and get my spool valve on this weekend
 
Well adjusted the valves to. 008 &. 016 hot motor and it runs much better now.cools alot better and doesn't hang at 10psi like it used to. Gonna try and get the spool valve put on next week.
And I removed and re installed t compressor outlet elbow, it may have been crooked and leaking
Thanks for all the help guys. I now can build 7psi at 1700rpm in overdrive and keep it pretty clean
 
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First off, THANK YOU bponci I truly appreciate all of your help.
so just installed a modded spool valve from Ponci, I cut down the dividing part of the flange for better flow when closed, per ponci's advice. The valve starts to open around 8-10psi and is fully open at 15-18psi .

Just took a quick trip sown the freeway and feuding at 70 I was amount 7psi and egts were only 800*. I can now easily build 8psi at 1700 while climbing a slight hill, prior to the valve I couldn't make any boost at the same slight hill. Haven't seen over 1400* yet bit I only got on it a few times and let out around 45psi.

So far I am very pleased with the spool valve and install was very quick.

2012-06-18_20-15-25_549.jpg
 
^^^ Remember, you can use a boost limiting orifice like a boost elbow sold by Pure Diesel Power to limit boost to the actuator and hold the butterfly closed longer.
 
redram04 said:
First off, THANK YOU bponci I truly appreciate all of your help.
so just installed a modded spool valve from Ponci, I cut down the dividing part of the flange for better flow when closed, per ponci's advice. The valve starts to open around 8-10psi and is fully open at 15-18psi .

Just took a quick trip sown the freeway and feuding at 70 I was amount 7psi and egts were only 800*. I can now easily build 8psi at 1700 while climbing a slight hill, prior to the valve I couldn't make any boost at the same slight hill. Haven't seen over 1400* yet bit I only got on it a few times and let out around 45psi.

So far I am very pleased with the spool valve and install was very quick.

2012-06-18_20-15-25_549.jpg
Click to expand...

Could you set me in the right direction to get one of these spool valves. Also can this style be ran with a divided manifold or does it need to be undivided?
Lookin to get one to help spool my billet k31

Sent from my SCH-I405 using Tapatalk 2
 
FlyingHighRacin said:
Could you set me in the right direction to get one of these spool valves. Also can this style be ran with a divided manifold or does it need to be undivided?
Lookin to get one to help spool my billet k31

Sent from my SCH-I405 using Tapatalk 2
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I'm not sure how Brad is modifying them but if it is a stock from Sound Performance valve you will need to grind out the center of a divided manifold or purchase an undivided manifold to run this valve. The SDX valve does not require you to grind anything or an undivided manifold. Also, last I knew the Sound Performance piece uses stainless steel for the shaft and butterfly. The SDX pieces uses inconel. Lastly, I believe they are exactly the same price. Good luck.
 
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