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Old 10-10-2017, 09:33 AM   #1
gear_grinder
 
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the line between single and triple disc

heya,

So I feel like im on the line between a good single disc converter and a triple disc.

Current truck setup is in the sig, plan on going up to a HE351cw with billet wheel (OE inducer/exducer size), 181 delivery valves, in-tank 100gph/43psi pump, and DAP 7x.011 or 7x.012 injectors after transmission build. Truck is a daily driver/single car trailer hauler and may be getting a sizeable (~36ft) goose neck eventually.

Goals are to make the transmission/converter combo strong enough to accelerate at WOT without worry towing said car trailer or gooseneck with a couple cars/small-medium tractor wile maintaining mileage and longevity.

Also wondering if i really need to go to a billet input shaft, the truck is a 2wd and pretty mild compared to some peoples buildups. I like the sonnax smart-tech input for the added clutch capacity. Thinking that if want to do WOT lockup shift 3-4 for highway on ramps towing I should go upgraded input
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1997 xclb2wdotf, dying 47re, fuel plate MIA, 3kgs, 4" diamond eye, bhaf, kdp tabbed, fuel heater removed.

Last edited by gear_grinder; 10-10-2017 at 09:34 AM.
 
Old 10-10-2017, 10:14 AM   #2
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oops my mistake, was thinking .024 dvs, not 181s
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1997 xclb2wdotf, dying 47re, fuel plate MIA, 3kgs, 4" diamond eye, bhaf, kdp tabbed, fuel heater removed.
 
Old 10-10-2017, 10:15 AM   #3
Snedge
 
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Go triple, and a good input.

Last edited by Snedge; 10-10-2017 at 10:16 AM.
 
Old 10-10-2017, 10:15 AM   #4
BRE
 
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Ahahaha! Broken input coming right up.
Youíre not serious right?


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There really is nothing better than OEM. That goes for anything from turbos to boobs.
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Old 10-10-2017, 10:31 AM   #5
gear_grinder
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BRE View Post
Ahahaha! Broken input coming right up.
You’re not serious right?


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dont like the sonnax smart-tech? wouldnt be doing a WOT lockup 3-4 towing with a stock input (do what i usually do now, manual lockup switch in direct and roll off the throttle, turn OD back on, wait for the shift, and then roll back in to the throttle).

its also just a two wheel drive and one tire fire, it spins now on the tar snakes if im towing and the road is wet.
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1997 xclb2wdotf, dying 47re, fuel plate MIA, 3kgs, 4" diamond eye, bhaf, kdp tabbed, fuel heater removed.

Last edited by gear_grinder; 10-10-2017 at 10:32 AM.
 
Old 10-10-2017, 10:42 AM   #6
BRE
 
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Iím saying your driving habits, wonít result in a happy transmission.
You canít expect one to live with WOT locked shifts while towing. Letís be real.


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07 Dodge 3500 - Tow mirrors, silencer ring MIA, Spectra air filter.
Quote:
Originally Posted by jfaulkner View Post
There really is nothing better than OEM. That goes for anything from turbos to boobs.
RIP Dex KCCO
 
Old 10-10-2017, 10:45 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Snedge View Post
Go triple, and a good input.
Save yourself future headache and labor and do as quoted above.

I've had 2 2WD both with Billet inputs I couldn't imagine not having a billet, especially after snapping one under the same pulls you're talking about.....A Stock wouldn't have lasted 100 Miles.
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Old 10-10-2017, 10:53 AM   #8
BRE
 
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Also as Jeff and Phil stated, Thatís your only option.


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07 Dodge 3500 - Tow mirrors, silencer ring MIA, Spectra air filter.
Quote:
Originally Posted by jfaulkner View Post
There really is nothing better than OEM. That goes for anything from turbos to boobs.
RIP Dex KCCO
 
Old 10-10-2017, 10:55 AM   #9
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A Stock input is borrowed time....But hey it's your money and time.
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Old 10-10-2017, 11:22 AM   #10
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Quote:
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A Stock input is borrowed time....But hey it's your money and time.
its been on a borrowed 40k miles since ive gotten the truck, but I shift it from direct to od on about 0-5% throttle.

I never go WOT in the truck for fear of ballooning the converter and destroying the crank thrust bearing out of lockup (lockup wont hold anyway). Main reason i leave it locked is to keep the clutch settled in the converter so it doesn't have to try and disperse the fluid again from the clutch lining.
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Old 10-10-2017, 11:43 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gear_grinder View Post
its been on a borrowed 40k miles since ive gotten the truck, but I shift it from direct to od on about 0-5% throttle.

I never go WOT in the truck for fear of ballooning the converter and destroying the crank thrust bearing out of lockup (lockup wont hold anyway). Main reason i leave it locked is to keep the clutch settled in the converter so it doesn't have to try and disperse the fluid again from the clutch lining.
Well, when you come to your senses, call Phil at Diesel Performance converters


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Old 10-10-2017, 11:49 AM   #12
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Well, when you come to your senses, call Phil at Diesel Performance converters


770-318-8696
more like waiting for my wallet to grow some more money trees haha
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Old 10-10-2017, 12:04 PM   #13
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Yeah that's a problem.

I see in your sig that the transmission is dying too. Might want to start checking couch cushions and vending machine change returns too.

I'll tell you this, I did a lot of stuff to my 2003 2WD, but the best money I ever spend was on the transmission and converter.
 
Old 10-10-2017, 02:05 PM   #14
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I always suggest erring on the performance side. In other words go bigger than you think you need in transmission and torque convertor build to hold your existing and future power...
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I might be able to help get you in a mag.
Custom poster size photos available. PM or email for info.
 
Old 10-10-2017, 02:08 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Snedge View Post
Yeah that's a problem.

I see in your sig that the transmission is dying too. Might want to start checking couch cushions and vending machine change returns too.

I'll tell you this, I did a lot of stuff to my 2003 2WD, but the best money I ever spend was on the transmission and converter.
its been about the same level of dying for 40k miles, the converter and/or od/forward/direct clutches have slipped since i bought the truck. keeping it alive is all about the skinny pedal. Up to a little over $4k in my parts list and counting...
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Last edited by gear_grinder; 10-10-2017 at 02:14 PM.
 
Old 10-10-2017, 02:40 PM   #16
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its been about the same level of dying for 40k miles, the converter and/or od/forward/direct clutches have slipped since i bought the truck. keeping it alive is all about the skinny pedal. Up to a little over $4k in my parts list and counting...

Do your thing. I'm just speaking from experience because you asked.
Lets put your skills at milking the life from your transmission aside.
If you pull the transmission, do it right.
4000.00 should get you a good trans and converter, and maybe enough to get a decent flex-plate.
 
Old 10-10-2017, 09:50 PM   #17
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Do your thing. I'm just speaking from experience because you asked.
Lets put your skills at milking the life from your transmission aside.
If you pull the transmission, do it right.
4000.00 should get you a good trans and converter, and maybe enough to get a decent flex-plate.
billet goerend sfi
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Old 10-11-2017, 07:30 AM   #18
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Quote:
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Well, when you come to your senses, call Phil at Diesel Performance converters


770-318-8696
This is the best decision you can make with building your transmission. I was on a similar fence when I built mine. Talked to Phil at DPC and he set things straight. Went with his triple disc and didn't look back. He even hooked me up with a SFI approved flex plate and a cool shirt.

Do a 1 piece billet input shaft as well.

Buy once, cry once.
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Old 10-11-2017, 07:53 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gear_grinder View Post

Goals are to make the transmission/converter combo strong enough to accelerate at WOT without worry towing said car trailer or gooseneck with a couple cars/small-medium tractor wile maintaining mileage and longevity.


Click the image to open in full size.
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Old 10-11-2017, 08:44 AM   #20
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Triple disc, billet input and intermediate shafts at the least.
The best performance mod you can do to a Cummins is TC/Trans, night and day difference
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