Brakes...again.

Will do, still trying to look at all options as I get time, really need to get it fixed and driving, but free time is a rare commodity right now.

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JWhite said:
Check out the drilled / slotted setups on AM autoparts
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Wow, think I may roll the dice on them. Can get the complete set, pads and rotors, for about the cost of a single rotor elsewhere!

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J-Pipes said:
Wow, think I may roll the dice on them. Can get the complete set, pads and rotors, for about the cost of a single rotor elsewhere!

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Click to expand...

My buddy has been happy with the drilled/ slotted on his 08 Ram, and also bought a set for the charger.
 
Well I ordered the pads and rotors from the 3rd gen setup as an upgrade. Now I need to order calipers, and thinking I should replace the original soft lines to the calipers. That leads to the new question, do I need to get the 3rd gen lines as well, or do the 2nd gen lines work with the 3rd gen calipers?

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Got it all ordered, now just waiting on it, and then trying to find time to do it! 3rd gen pads, rotors, and calipers, 2nd gen lines.

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Got these installed last weekend, everything seems to be working good. Had to modify the banjo bolt that hold the brake line to the calipers a little, was just barely to big of a shoulder to seat down right, chucked them into the drill press and knocked the shoulder down with a file. Other than that, was just a normal brake job. Only drawback is I still have a vibration of some sort over 60mph, was really hoping it was the stuck caliper!

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The stuck caliper or A stuck caliper? A stuck caliper would make it pull in that direction when you let go of the wheel.
 
I did the GM wheel cylinder upgrade on a 99 I had years ago with a dana 70.

There was definitely a noticeable difference that justified the price and work for it.
 
smoken02 said:
The stuck caliper or A stuck caliper? A stuck caliper would make it pull in that direction when you let go of the wheel.
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I had a seized piston in one caliper, did the third gen conversion. I know the u-joints in the front axle are bad, only other thing I can think of is the front drive shaft.

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Got Smoke? said:
I did the GM wheel cylinder upgrade on a 99 I had years ago with a dana 70.



There was definitely a noticeable difference that justified the price and work for it.
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I haven't tackled the rear yet, but do plan to upgrade the wheel cylinders when I do.

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I did the cylinder upgrade in my 96 years ago and the problem I had was that if the brakes were adjusted at all, the rear tires would lock on a hard brake and the truck would try to jack-knife.


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biggy238 said:
I did the cylinder upgrade in my 96 years ago and the problem I had was that if the brakes were adjusted at all, the rear tires would lock on a hard brake and the truck would try to jack-knife.


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This is true with mine, especially in the snow it gets extra sketchy because the rear locks up so easy
 
Hope you got your project done and are happy with it. Love mine and will never go back. On side note, my truck was the very first truck to ever do this, you can read about it on diesel truck resource under big brake update, slowflyer 2112.
 
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Drilled rotors are a marketing scam. They do nothing except increases your chance of a crack initiation site and also substantially decrease your surface area. Slotted isn't necessary either.
 
I did the one ton cylinders in my d80. The rear brakes are phenomenal. Too phenomenal, fact. I'm about ready to bypass the RWAL.
 
As I understand it. You must have an 01-02 axle for doing the 3rd gen brake upgrade because they don’t have press on rotors.

For the rear brakes the GM wheel cylinders and bypassing the load proportioning valve is about all you can do. The 2000 model trucks had the biggest drum brakes of the 2nd gens.
 
Then I got lucky! My truck is actually a 2001 model year, but has a very early build date. Most of the things that were changed between those years is the older style, except the front axle! So far the 3rd gen fronts have been working great, still should overhaul the rear drums though.

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