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10-18-2011, 01:58 PM
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#1
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Name: Valair1
Title: Valair Inc. Clutch
Status: Not Here
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Crowley Texas
Member`s Gallery
Posts: 2,498
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Best U-joint?
I got to pull my tranny in the 06, so I figured I would go ahead and change the u-joints, so any opinions?
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10-18-2011, 02:04 PM
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#2
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Name: 9724VF350
Title: Tractor Guy
Status: Not Here
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Northeast Ohio
Member`s Gallery
Posts: 2,784
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Basic genuine Spicer.
__________________
97 F350 4X4 CC Dually 5spd 24V 913 S300/HT3B Ranch Hand.
Playtoy-Oliver 1655. 12V now , 13mm, S475
Wife's ride-03 Excursion 12V swap in the works.
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10-18-2011, 02:14 PM
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#3
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Name: 12vriviera
Title: That Guy with that car
Status: Not Here
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: north texas
Member`s Gallery
Posts: 6,846
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yup, spicer 1410's in my buick and i havent broke em yet! (solid, not greasable)
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10-18-2011, 02:30 PM
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#4
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Name: ChrisRyan
Title: Rookie
Status: Not Here
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Zephyr, Texas
Member`s Gallery
Posts: 26
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1410 front driveline 1480 rear driveline Spicer non-greasable
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10-18-2011, 02:40 PM
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#5
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Name: 02SFguy
Title: Too Much Time
Status: Not Here
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: cecil county, maryland
Member`s Gallery
Posts: 605
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ChrisRyan
1410 front driveline 1480 rear driveline Spicer non-greasable
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i agree that's what i have and i pull mine almost every weekend during the season
__________________
PULLER-07 CCLB Dually (The Rumor Mill) Stock unmodified charger, CTS, EFI live, rock stars, AD 2, ladder bars and stacks, MOONSHINE Tuning, BIG DIPPER trans and...others
2011 & 2012 NADM East Coast National Workstock Champion
2011 MAPA Champion
TOW RIG- 2011 CCSB LTZ
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10-18-2011, 03:26 PM
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#6
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Name: 4x4dually
Title: Moderator
Status: Not Here
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Stillwater, OK
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Posts: 31,792
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I don't pull or race....but tow heavy and genuine Spicer from Inland Truck in OKC for me.
__________________
Jory 2009 4x4 3500 MCLB
"There are people far less intelligent than you making a living doing this stuff." - Jeff Mumau
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10-19-2011, 05:24 AM
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#7
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Name: Valair1
Title: Valair Inc. Clutch
Status: Not Here
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Crowley Texas
Member`s Gallery
Posts: 2,498
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that what i thought, thanks
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10-19-2011, 06:52 AM
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#8
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Name: jfaulkner
Title: Douche Hunter
Status: Not Here
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Ohio
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Posts: 5,864
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Why in the hell would you want non-greasable? My rear OEM joints didn't last 25k, same with my dads chevy 1500, the front axle shaft joints barely made it 40k. Even the ones that looked good had no bearings left, were all dry and pulverized.
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10-19-2011, 07:01 AM
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#9
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Name: OrangeNV
Title: BISH please
Status: Not Here
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Pittsburgh
Member`s Gallery
Posts: 5,043
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jfaulkner
Why in the hell would you want non-greasable? My rear OEM joints didn't last 25k, same with my dads chevy 1500, the front axle shaft joints barely made it 40k. Even the ones that looked good had no bearings left, were all dry and pulverized.
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strength.....greasable means the middle is hollow
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Diesel Ron
SteamFitters local 449
Quote:
Originally Posted by roachie
Nothing is quite as exciting as bare-backing a ginger crack wh0re that is famous.
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MUMAU
RAM BOYZ
KEYSTONE
MANNING
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10-19-2011, 07:25 PM
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#10
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Name: 12vriviera
Title: That Guy with that car
Status: Not Here
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: north texas
Member`s Gallery
Posts: 6,846
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greasable doesn't have a long service life compared to their greasable counterparts.. But you can press a joint out and pack more grease into out if you want..
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10-19-2011, 08:29 PM
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#11
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Name: jfaulkner
Title: Douche Hunter
Status: Not Here
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Ohio
Member`s Gallery
Posts: 5,864
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OrangeNV
strength.....greasable means the middle is hollow
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....and you've seen how many joints break because they were greasable? I think this is more internet ballpark facts, especially for a street truck.
Quote:
Originally Posted by 24vriviera
greasable doesn't have a long service life compared to their greasable counterparts.. But you can press a joint out and pack more grease into out if you want..
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Well since we've sold semi's with close to a million miles with all original joints I beg to differ on they're service life. Seriously? who the hell is going to press out a joint to add grease?
You can speculate on the life span and strength of greasable but I know for a fact non greasable is junk. The greasable ones I replaced the OEM ones with lasted 3 times longer. Here is one of those long life super strong non greasable joints. Joint was so unbelievably strong that the bearings disintegrated and killed the cap
Last edited by jfaulkner; 10-19-2011 at 08:31 PM.
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10-19-2011, 08:56 PM
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#12
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Name: BowtiedCTD
Title: CHIVE ON
Status: Not Here
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Iowa
Member`s Gallery
Posts: 831
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jfaulkner
....and you've seen how many joints break because they were greasable? I think this is more internet ballpark facts, especially for a street truck.
Well since we've sold semi's with close to a million miles with all original joints I beg to differ on they're service life. Seriously? who the hell is going to press out a joint to add grease?
You can speculate on the life span and strength of greasable but I know for a fact non greasable is junk. The greasable ones I replaced the OEM ones with lasted 3 times longer. Here is one of those long life super strong non greasable joints. Joint was so unbelievably strong that the bearings disintegrated and killed the cap
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When a 250HP Cummins snaps ears off of greasable u-joints i would say there is a huge difference. And when Spicer themselves states that the greasable joint is weaker? Semi U-joints are a completely different beast, they are literally 5 times the size of what we run, are also bolted in or strapped in, not just clipped in.
Even Spicer recommends NON greasable in high HP applications as they will take the abuse longer and better than a hollow greasable. Only benefit a greasable gives is for those that get in water and mud alot to put fresh grease in.
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10-19-2011, 10:51 PM
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#13
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Name: 12vriviera
Title: That Guy with that car
Status: Not Here
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: north texas
Member`s Gallery
Posts: 6,846
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jfaulkner
....and you've seen how many joints break because they were greasable? I think this is more internet ballpark facts, especially for a street truck.
Well since we've sold semi's with close to a million miles with all original joints I beg to differ on they're service life. Seriously? who the hell is going to press out a joint to add grease?
You can speculate on the life span and strength of greasable but I know for a fact non greasable is junk. The greasable ones I replaced the OEM ones with lasted 3 times longer. Here is one of those long life super strong non greasable joints. Joint was so unbelievably strong that the bearings disintegrated and killed the cap
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Read my post again,
I said non greasable doesn't last as long as greasable,
I will still only use solid joints on the car, despite life span. 48 bucks every 3 years isn't as bad as twisting the back end of my trans off when a hollow one explodes under a boosted launch into lockup... And that's what the op is looking for, strongest, not a hole opinions on which one lasts longer logging street miles
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10-20-2011, 07:22 AM
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#14
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Name: jfaulkner
Title: Douche Hunter
Status: Not Here
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Ohio
Member`s Gallery
Posts: 5,864
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BowtiedCTD
When a 250HP Cummins snaps ears off of greasable u-joints i would say there is a huge difference. And when Spicer themselves states that the greasable joint is weaker? Semi U-joints are a completely different beast, they are literally 5 times the size of what we run, are also bolted in or strapped in, not just clipped in.
Even Spicer recommends NON greasable in high HP applications as they will take the abuse longer and better than a hollow greasable. Only benefit a greasable gives is for those that get in water and mud alot to put fresh grease in.
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It's all proportional dude, they're way bigger but seeing way more torque.
Man, after reading this I'm going out today and switching everything to non-greasable. And for the 3 years I abused my '05 (twin turbo/twin CP3 around 600hp) with greasable joints I didn't know I was playing with fire. And to think I could have killed someone.
Funny how I didn't break one @ 600hp but a 250hp truck did......hmmm.
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10-20-2011, 07:58 AM
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#15
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Name: JasonCzerak
Title: Too Much Time
Status: Not Here
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Bella Vista, AR
Member`s Gallery
Posts: 14,822
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not to mention the mess!
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2014 Mercedes Benz E63s - 620awhp
2006 Corvette - 1000whp-ish
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10-20-2011, 09:08 AM
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#16
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Name: chuggins10
Title: Too Much Time
Status: Not Here
Join Date: May 2007
Member`s Gallery
Posts: 872
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Faulkner you sound like a douche... An you had twins an dual cp3's an you only made "around 600" ?? Just for that I think you lack intelligence.. An what will be stronger just from common sense a hollow piece of metal or a solid piece?? I'm going to like seeing your reply...
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Chris Huggins
Pressurized Performance
95' Dodge 2500. Has a nasty smokey tractor engine in it right now but a CR 6.7 is getting ready to find a new home.....
06' TBSS that the wife hot rods around in.
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10-20-2011, 09:29 AM
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#17
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Name: jfaulkner
Title: Douche Hunter
Status: Not Here
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Ohio
Member`s Gallery
Posts: 5,864
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Quote:
Originally Posted by strokinnochokin
Faulkner you sound like a douche... An you had twins an dual cp3's an you only made "around 600" ?? Just for that I think you lack intelligence.. An what will be stronger just from common sense a hollow piece of metal or a solid piece?? I'm going to like seeing your reply...
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Your such a stupid phuckstick. So what part don't you believe, the fact I had the truck or the fact I didn't want a 1000hp street truck? What you should be questioning is the 250hp truck blowing u-joints in two. I've seen more trucks blow apart ring/pinions than joints. I don't know about you but I'd rather replace diff's than $10 u-joints.
If you like solid so much buy OX joints, sure they won't last a month with no lube but hey we can't have 250hp trucks shredding drivelines can we?
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10-20-2011, 10:24 AM
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#18
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Name: Mr.T
Title: DPF's are gay
Status: Not Here
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Rexburg, Idaho
Member`s Gallery
Posts: 8,030
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Not really sure what the point of this thread is now....I always ran greasable joints in my cummins and I beat the Hell out of it doing 4x4 launches with around 500hp and never had any problems, your trading off service life for strength with the solid joint and some people just don't care, and that's fine, its not my truck
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2019 L5P, missing some stuff that makes it quiet.
Last edited by Mr.T; 10-20-2011 at 10:25 AM.
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10-20-2011, 01:57 PM
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#19
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Name: Valair1
Title: Valair Inc. Clutch
Status: Not Here
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Crowley Texas
Member`s Gallery
Posts: 2,498
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my truck has non greasable joints from the factory, and at 160K on the ticker,and just a few ponies over 600 hp, I havent had a problem, I thought I would replace them since I now have the tranny out.and looking for opinions. thanks to those that did just that. lol
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10-20-2011, 01:59 PM
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#20
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Name: 9724VF350
Title: Tractor Guy
Status: Not Here
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Northeast Ohio
Member`s Gallery
Posts: 2,784
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Valair1
my truck has non greasable joints from the factory, and at 160K on the ticker,and just a few ponies over 600 hp, I havent had a problem, I thought I would replace them since I now have the tranny out.and looking for opinions. thanks to those that did just that. lol
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My non greasable joints have over 230k on them. But if driveshafts were in my hands it would get new one's also.
__________________
97 F350 4X4 CC Dually 5spd 24V 913 S300/HT3B Ranch Hand.
Playtoy-Oliver 1655. 12V now , 13mm, S475
Wife's ride-03 Excursion 12V swap in the works.
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