Fun pulling tractor build

ram12vcummins said:

is that an 880?

Click to expand...

1850 oliver

Started to peak at the crowerglide clutch I have. Pretty rusty. Not sure if it will clean up.

The bolt pattern won't fit the crank and it has no ring gear for my starter. So I was contemplating getting a flywheel machines from 3/4" plate steel to match the bolt pattern of the crank an accept the bolts from the clutch and then have the ring hear welded to it. It's either that or buy a clutch dual disc or what have you.


Soaked the block on some degreaser and hopefully have time to wash it up tomorrow.

Picked up a parts truck because I need the bell housing an the wrecker was being difficult and wouldn't let me drop the trans and take the bell.

Hopefully gonna try get this thing started and running over the winter. I've got a sb dd off a member and am going to use a nv4500 bell and cut the tractor input shaft down to share the same projection as the dodge input shaft. Then have a machine shop machine me a collar to hold the input shaft holder in the centre of the bell. Then I'll weld it to 1/2" plate an bolt that to the bell.


I also got a set of 5x14 off a member. Trying to decide if I wanna do a set of twins or try find a cheap 366 turbo. I've got a good used turbo off my series 60 ddec4 I could use possibly. Or buy a ht3b


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I've never been a Massey guy, but this build definitely has me interested! I'm looking forward to watching your progress.

Don't hesitate to toss some advice either lol

Here's my dad's 55 with a 471 in it.

https://vimeo.com/194765571

Try that again

Got the input shaft from a Massey cut with to match the protrusion of a 1-3/8" input shaft of the dodge. Then had them make me a collar to centre the shaft holder in the nv4500 bell housing. Wife picked it up today and looks decent. It would appear they pressed the collar into the bell housing. Not sure if I like that or not. I have a 1/2" plate cut to fit over the collar an bolt to the bell then I can weld the collar to it. The collar is steel.

Does your local organization have a speed restriction for the class you'll be in?

No speed limit on the mod class.

Borg Warner 177275 Turbo S300SX3-66 S366 .91 A/R T4 Airwerks *BRAND NEW* | eBay
Thinking I'll prob go with a box turbo like this. Should be a good match up with 5x14 I hope.

Up in the air if I wanna do single or build hx35/ht3b twins


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Well not much has happened but I have made myself a gantry to lift the motor. Just gotta get some crank seals and then I'll put clutch, bell on an try get it mounted in frame.

Well got some work done today. Got frame cut out to fit bell housing. Got the input shaft installed an bell housing on. Machine shop didn't cut the input shaft down enough so I had to sand off .003 off the shaft to fit inside the pilot bearing. An that sucked.

Gotta make some plate for the front mounts. Gonna mount it on each side at the front to the two holes on the tractor frame. Removed the coolant bracket on the right side an will cut off the a/c bracket so can use those 3 holes for mounts.

Once front is up an mounted I'll shim back and weld rear mount as well.


Once I get it mounted up I'll remove motor and replace the crank seals as the rear was seeping a bit. Also get a new lift pump for it.

Things in need to think about are fuel system, coolant and turbo lines.

I'm not gonna be running a rad. I don't think it'll get hot enough. But open to suggestions on how to route the piping or maybe installing a small rad. Also wouldn't need an engine fan not sure if I can even fit it. So what could I do for belt routing if I eliminate the engine fan an a/c. Would keep alternator an need to run water pump.


I will most likely be doing 35/bht3b so wondering if they make a y for the drain and is it best to pull oil supply from other plug on filter housing?


Need to hookup a tach and had read about mounting a proximity sensor in front of crank to pick up the bolts and using a gas tach. Or is there something easier?

Then obviously, boost,boost, dp, coolant Temp, fuel pressure and oil pressure gauges will need to be plumbed in.


Dutton Lainson Bio-Flo® Fuel Filter for Biodiesel - Dultmeier Sales

Prob go with something like this for a fuel filter. Also have stock housing if That wouldn't be enough.

Please don't hesitate to criticize my thoughts I like to learn an wanna do it so I don't have issues.

I picked up a set of 5x14 off here(that's what I told they were), barely run so I'll prob have them dropped off at a diesel shop to get tested an cleaned even though that prob cost as much as the injectors themselves did lol

Also need to plug off oil line feeding the vacuum pump an build a plate to block it off as shouldn't need it anymore.

Just picked up this turbo hoping it's a bht3b. Can someone help me out? Lol it's exhaust side is toast and got some metal inside. Hoping it's rebuildable. I know there's a few guys on here that know what their doing so I'd rather give them a couple bucks for some parts.

Got the mounts made. Just gotta pull motor and finish welding them up.

If someone who runs twins can tell me if I can y the drain line or should I weld a bung in the pan? Pan isn't removable when motor is installed so I gotta decide if I'll install a bung before I drop motor back in.

Ordered some weld in bungs. For the oil pan an for the fuel tank.

Getting tired of useless parts guys. I ordered weld in bungs 3 weeks ago and wife came home with these today.




Iron pipe scully flanges fml

Need some help with my twin setup. In order to save some cash I wanna use a turbo I have lying around
Here's the plate on the turbo.

I would like to know how it would compare in a set of twins specs and power wise to a ht3b or ht60. I know it's old lol but if it can save some coin why not.
I wanna learn so fill my ears please. Will my 5x14 be enough or too much fuel? Will this even work decent if I enlarge the internal gate on my 35?