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Old 11-26-2006, 10:37 AM   #1
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Painting an engine block??

Hey Andy, whats the best choice for painting my engine blocks in my boat. I want Bright freakin red, but it needs to hold up to some pretty good heat.

Thanks, Tim
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Old 11-26-2006, 12:57 PM   #2
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Go to Tractor Supply, and use farm and implement paint Massy Ferguson is a good red color. You can clean the block with swimming pool acid, dilute to 20%
Remember always pour acid in water, and not the other way. Be careful and not get it on any finnished machine surfaces like ,bore ,cam tunnel, mainsbearing bore. Put this mix in a sprayer from Home depot and label . spray it on wait a few mins and rinse off.

Last edited by COMP461; 11-26-2006 at 05:12 PM.
 
Old 11-26-2006, 04:42 PM   #3
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How hot will it get and how bling-bling does it need to be?
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Old 11-26-2006, 05:48 PM   #4
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It won't really get much hotter than a normal engine compartment, and its for me, so I want it to be the cats ass!

As good as I can get it.
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Old 11-26-2006, 07:52 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by COMP461
Go to Tractor Supply, and use farm and implement paint Massy Ferguson is a good red color. You can clean the block with swimming pool acid, dilute to 20%
Remember always pour acid in water, and not the other way. Be careful and not get it on any finnished machine surfaces like ,bore ,cam tunnel, mainsbearing bore. Put this mix in a sprayer from Home depot and label . spray it on wait a few mins and rinse off.
I just noticed this...so are you saying cheap catalyzed or uncatalyzed implement enamel withstands engine block heat?

If this is the case, anything I make will work and the last thing you want on your pimp boat engine block is enamel paint. Once again, I'll research this tomorrow because I simply have never had the need to paint an engine block but I know many who have.
 
Old 11-26-2006, 07:59 PM   #6
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well the blocks on tractors are painted with the same paint as the rest of the tractor so it should be fine
robert
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Old 11-26-2006, 09:21 PM   #7
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This paint is really tough but the real secret to any successful painting is in the prep. I use lacquer thinner for the final degrease. And keep the WD40 a long way away. When I ran my G.M PERFORMANCE PARTS / Caliber Collision Center D/ED , I housed out of one of their centers while the dealership moved to a new location . I was introduced to the amount of damage a little WD40 could do a paint job a 100 feet away. Ray Little of RayMac racing engines uses this implement enamel for his engines, I see the NASCAR school, engines come back in the shop after two years of total abuse. This paint is really tough and it is almost impossible to get off after its baked on.
 
Old 11-26-2006, 09:43 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alldiesels
well the blocks on tractors are painted with the same paint as the rest of the tractor so it should be fine
robert
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Old 11-26-2006, 09:55 PM   #9
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Thanks guys. Andy, let me know what you come up with, also, I am going to have my neighbor, Nathan Mclure give you a shout. He is painting his 67 mustang fast back, and is looking for some paint. I told him about you. PM me your contact info, and I'll get it to him.

Thanks for the info guys.
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Old 11-26-2006, 10:09 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by COMP461
This paint is really tough but the real secret to any successful painting is in the prep. I use lacquer thinner for the final degrease. And keep the WD40 a long way away. When I ran my G.M PERFORMANCE PARTS / Caliber Collision Center D/ED , I housed out of one of their centers while the dealership moved to a new location . I was introduced to the amount of damage a little WD40 could do a paint job a 100 feet away. Ray Little of RayMac racing engines uses this implement enamel for his engines, I see the NASCAR school, engines come back in the shop after two years of total abuse. This paint is really tough and it is almost impossible to get off after its baked on.
Comp, try this. Take that same paint and paint something solid with it like a fender or scrap piece of metal or Al. Since it's Fall and I have no clue where you are at leave the painted panel in a room that will see decent air/temp heat (65+ degrees would be nice) for a week. After one week, prop the panel with the painted surface so its horizontal, get a roll of quality duct tape and stick it to the panel in a manner that will create a circular leak-proof pool out of the duct tape.

Now grab a bottle of the most aggressive brake fluid, hydraulic fluid or even Skydrol if you have some and pour enough into your new 'pool' to coat the bottom of your pool with ~1/4" of fluid.

View your coating through the paint and note the time of any paint failure.

Another test is splash or submerge the panel in gas.

Custom bike painters love my clears and single stage because after 24hrs of air dry @ 75 degrees gasoline will NOT touch them! Many other clears and single stages can't ever make this staining claim.

Assuming it were your boat and I confirm my paint works on engine blocks, when you pop the hatch to show off the motors to some hotties would you rather say those motors have bush hog paint on them or have paint proven to adhere at nearly 800 mph?

Last edited by TooMuchBoost; 11-26-2006 at 10:21 PM.
 
Old 11-26-2006, 10:20 PM   #11
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I think I know what's going to happen to that...
A non-catylized synthetic enamel is going to get all kinds of pissed off at that test...as it's running to the ground..
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Old 11-26-2006, 10:26 PM   #12
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Quote:
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I think I know what's going to happen to that...
A non-catylized synthetic enamel is going to get all kinds of pissed off at that test...as it's running to the ground..
I suggest one even try this with uncatalyzed enamels, catalyzed enamel, acrylic urethane and polyurethane products.

Note any failure (and degredation/lifting/bubbling of the coating) and at what time after the 'bath' started that failure occurred.....

There is more to it than just the coating type.....
 
Old 11-26-2006, 10:43 PM   #13
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Andy, I don't care what I have to say to her, as long as it makes her want to remove more clothing,
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Old 11-27-2006, 10:10 AM   #14
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I found out there is nothing to it. Thoroughly clean the block, apply 2 coats of epoxy primer for corrosion protection and adhesion, then base clear or polyurethane single stage.
 
Old 11-27-2006, 10:33 PM   #15
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Cool Andy, thanks.
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Old 11-29-2006, 09:16 AM   #16
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Well they are going to be freakin bright thats for sure. Andy got me a deal I couldn't refuse, and they are going to be Viper red! That should look kind of nice sitting under the hatch, ya think!
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Old 12-24-2006, 08:52 AM   #17
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Guys I wound up painting the exhaust manifolds and risers with Vipe red. The block stayed black, and I went with some High Chrome valve covers,a nd it looks awesome. Thanks Andy, that paint looks incredible on the motors. Pictures to follow as soon as I can find my camera!
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Old 12-24-2006, 09:48 PM   #18
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These don't do it justice, I have a pair of these ready for the dyno thursday
Attached Images
File Type: jpg Motor done 1.jpg (26.4 KB, 33 views)
File Type: jpg motor done 2.jpg (30.8 KB, 62 views)
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Old 12-24-2006, 09:58 PM   #19
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Very nice! That is my favorite color for cars and trucks. When ever I get the chance to repaint my truck it's deffinitly going to be Viper red and you can bet on that!

Let us know what kinda numbers you put down and good luck!
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Old 01-04-2007, 10:25 AM   #20
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Thanks Andy, it looks awesome, and went on like a dream. I know where I'll be getting my paint from here on out.

Thanks Again.
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