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Old 01-25-2015, 11:58 AM   #21
97rada
 
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New truck project

What cummins block Stiffener works on a 12 valve?
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Austin
tow truck- 14-3500 with tuning
toy truck -94 rclb auto- 5.2x with a lot left. Shooting for 4s

Any intelligent fool can make things bigger and more complex...it takes a touch of genius- and alot of courage to move in the opposite direction.
 
Old 01-25-2015, 05:05 PM   #22
jedeka

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I think Cummins part # is 3941556. Call Jeff at Mumau Diesel or check with Pure Diesel Power. You need longer pan bolts, pan gaskets, etc.
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1996 Dodge Ram 2500 4x4, 5 spd. 4.88 gears, 2.5" turbo, Smokem inj, 5000 rpm springs, NV271, South Bend dd clutch, 33x12.50-15 STS tires, 6 inch stack, custom valve springs

2005 3500 4x4 dually, auto, KORE leveling coils, 19.5 wheels, Smarty Jr
 
Old 01-26-2015, 07:59 AM   #23
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And that's for the 12 valve block?
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Austin
tow truck- 14-3500 with tuning
toy truck -94 rclb auto- 5.2x with a lot left. Shooting for 4s

Any intelligent fool can make things bigger and more complex...it takes a touch of genius- and alot of courage to move in the opposite direction.
 
Old 01-26-2015, 09:16 AM   #24
jedeka

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Yep. Jeff at Mumau could confirm that I gave you correct part #. It is about 3/8" thick.
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1996 Dodge Ram 2500 4x4, 5 spd. 4.88 gears, 2.5" turbo, Smokem inj, 5000 rpm springs, NV271, South Bend dd clutch, 33x12.50-15 STS tires, 6 inch stack, custom valve springs

2005 3500 4x4 dually, auto, KORE leveling coils, 19.5 wheels, Smarty Jr
 
Old 01-27-2015, 10:43 AM   #25
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I have a brand new set of rod and main bolts if you are interested. They are stock cummins bolts.
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97 12 valve 4x4 NV
She ain't pretty but she puts out
 
Old 01-27-2015, 11:02 AM   #26
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I am not at the moment. I have a complete running engine. Only worried about rod bolts
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Austin
tow truck- 14-3500 with tuning
toy truck -94 rclb auto- 5.2x with a lot left. Shooting for 4s

Any intelligent fool can make things bigger and more complex...it takes a touch of genius- and alot of courage to move in the opposite direction.
 
Old 02-09-2015, 06:57 PM   #27
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Looking for a set of non intercooled pistons for this thing. I have been slow going, water main broke in the basement
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Austin
tow truck- 14-3500 with tuning
toy truck -94 rclb auto- 5.2x with a lot left. Shooting for 4s

Any intelligent fool can make things bigger and more complex...it takes a touch of genius- and alot of courage to move in the opposite direction.
 
Old 02-09-2015, 07:15 PM   #28
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Try big blue's piston mod. I've seen another guy do the same the pics look awesome.
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1998 QCDRW 4x4 - p24v, 4k's, 024's, SAC 6x.013's, s363/68/.83 - HT4B, BD Intercooler, ATS T4 Manifold, 6" Exhaust, FirePunk Trans, Hamilton Springs & Push Rods, ISS Pro Gauges, exc.....
 
Old 02-09-2015, 07:29 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Headcase98002 View Post
Try big blue's piston mod. I've seen another guy do the same the pics look awesome.

With machining the stock ones or what. I was always told it woukd cost more to machine than to get a new set
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Austin
tow truck- 14-3500 with tuning
toy truck -94 rclb auto- 5.2x with a lot left. Shooting for 4s

Any intelligent fool can make things bigger and more complex...it takes a touch of genius- and alot of courage to move in the opposite direction.
 
Old 02-09-2015, 07:55 PM   #30
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He is using a burr bit in a die grinder to open the piston.
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1998 QCDRW 4x4 - p24v, 4k's, 024's, SAC 6x.013's, s363/68/.83 - HT4B, BD Intercooler, ATS T4 Manifold, 6" Exhaust, FirePunk Trans, Hamilton Springs & Push Rods, ISS Pro Gauges, exc.....
 
Old 02-09-2015, 08:00 PM   #31
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I am disappointed that CompD is now the place where taking a die grinder to your pistons is considered a viable option...
 
Old 02-09-2015, 08:20 PM   #32
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Die grinder!!! What really how accurate is that???? Thought I was hillbilly for cutting pistons with a mill, instead of buying new ones.
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Originally Posted by*DISTURBED*

You all know the day the cr finally beats the dinosaur all these tickle by wire guys are going to look like a bunch of virgins on prom night busting their first nut! There won't be a dry keyboard in this place
 
Old 02-09-2015, 08:56 PM   #33
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Is taking a die grinder to pistons any worse than taking a mill or a lathe to them? In the right hands, all goes well and results are positive. In the wrong hands, parts are wrecked, and if you do it real good, fling a piston across the shop when it comes out of the chuck. One is going to take a lot more patience and attention to detail to get it right.
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'98 3500 2wd, 24v, 5 spd, p-pumped
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Old 02-09-2015, 11:22 PM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bracker8040 View Post
I am disappointed that CompD is now the place where taking a die grinder to your pistons is considered a viable option...
I used a lathe when cutting the pistons in my race truck because the pistons were out of the motor.

I used a die grinder followed with a sandpaper roll in between 20-30 measurements with calipers on the set I cut in-frame on my 300K mile used motor. There is a difference between making the most of used part to maximum performance and being a hack job.

I'm currently cutting a set of BMW pistons, and I can assure you, the die grinder will never touch them!!!!



The lathe-cut used pistons turned out just fine:

Click the image to open in full size.

Click the image to open in full size.

Click the image to open in full size.


The die grinder pistons turned out just fine as well. The truck is back on the road running better than ever. It has much less haze than it used to with 26* timing, I'd say it was a success!!!

Click the image to open in full size.

Click the image to open in full size.
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Old 02-10-2015, 07:27 AM   #35
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Well I stand corrected. Nice work on those pistons, you have more patience then I do.

I cut mine because of the haze also, and because of my small bowl pistons with non ic injectors. Budget build other wise I would have bought pistons.
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Originally Posted by*DISTURBED*

You all know the day the cr finally beats the dinosaur all these tickle by wire guys are going to look like a bunch of virgins on prom night busting their first nut! There won't be a dry keyboard in this place
 
Old 02-10-2015, 08:12 AM   #36
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That's the thing, I have the engine apart, I won't throw stock pistons in this engine and be limited with timing. It's a budget go fast truck. I don't have access to a lathe either, that's the reason I wanna do the no- intercooled. I have decided it will start with a 2.5 single to drag race, sled pull and dirt drags.
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Austin
tow truck- 14-3500 with tuning
toy truck -94 rclb auto- 5.2x with a lot left. Shooting for 4s

Any intelligent fool can make things bigger and more complex...it takes a touch of genius- and alot of courage to move in the opposite direction.
 
Old 02-11-2015, 08:12 AM   #37
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Well terrible news. The miss just wasn't making sense to me, the pump was good, the head was sealing,everything was checking out. So I rechecked the rear bores and found the problem. #5 is .016 out of
Spec. So now I have to yank the engine and swap in my spare block. Not really what I wanted to spend time doing. Goal is May 1st to be back running
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Austin
tow truck- 14-3500 with tuning
toy truck -94 rclb auto- 5.2x with a lot left. Shooting for 4s

Any intelligent fool can make things bigger and more complex...it takes a touch of genius- and alot of courage to move in the opposite direction.
 
Old 02-11-2015, 08:41 AM   #38
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Sounds like you have my kind of luck. That sucks man I hope everything else goes nice and smooth for you
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01.5 dodge 2500 qcsb, garmon stage 3 trans, infinite performance 6x.013's, sxe364.5/68/.83, steed manifold, fass titanium, edge drag comp, rad box, arp studs....
 
Old 02-11-2015, 11:22 AM   #39
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Sounds like you have my kind of luck. That sucks man I hope everything else goes nice and smooth for you

It shouldn't be to bad. Fortunately I have a spare block that will clean up standard
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Austin
tow truck- 14-3500 with tuning
toy truck -94 rclb auto- 5.2x with a lot left. Shooting for 4s

Any intelligent fool can make things bigger and more complex...it takes a touch of genius- and alot of courage to move in the opposite direction.
 
Old 03-06-2015, 11:58 AM   #40
97rada
 
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New truck project

Little update. Got a set of 286210's. Engine will be going together with a decent amount of new parts.
Main studs
Arp rod bolts
Cummins main and rods
Polished crank
12v rods that are cleaned up.
Piston to wall set at .008.
Cam bores will have bushings.
Still working on funding for cam, valve train and finish work on the head. 90% of the parts I have sitting around. I am on a shoe string budget but don't see a point to not assemble with everything machined properly. I am doing everything possible that I can myself. I can't deck the head though
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Austin
tow truck- 14-3500 with tuning
toy truck -94 rclb auto- 5.2x with a lot left. Shooting for 4s

Any intelligent fool can make things bigger and more complex...it takes a touch of genius- and alot of courage to move in the opposite direction.
 
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