New steed speed add on

AHall said:
Also I used SS Allen bolts for mine. Started threading one in by hand verifying the threads were clean. Bolt made it about 3/4 of the way and became very stiff. So I started to take it out. It was completely seized. Took about a half hour of 1/16th turn in and 1/8th turn out to get it removed. Also used blaster. After that I tapped all the holes to remove any coating and lubed bolts with anti seize during install. Bad luck I guess.
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The holes are not tapped all the way through on the bottom(maybe the top too can't recall). Maybe that is what happened to you and myself. None the less studs are hard to beat given the way they apply fastening torque.
 
The only other time I've had this happen is with a stainless bolt. When I removed it I notice about 3 full thead had broken from the bolt. Looked like a little helicoil. After I cleaned the threads I had zero issues. I agree that studs are hard to beat.
 
AHall said:
The only other time I've had this happen is with a stainless bolt. When I removed it I notice about 3 full thead had broken from the bolt. Looked like a little helicoil. After I cleaned the threads I had zero issues. I agree that studs are hard to beat.
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I used the black oxide hardened allen head bolts. My issue occurred after running a while not while fastening. I was lucky and able to save the threads in the manifold which I totally expected to lose requiring re-drilling and tapping for the next larger size. Glad I didn't have to given I would have possibly needed to drill out the spool flange and turbine housing for the larger bolt/stud.
 
AHall said:
The only other time I've had this happen is with a stainless bolt. When I removed it I notice about 3 full thead had broken from the bolt. Looked like a little helicoil. After I cleaned the threads I had zero issues. I agree that studs are hard to beat.
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Stainless loves to gall up. No need to run stainless in high temp environments, reg. bolts work just fine there. Stainless is for corrosive or oxidizing environments.
 
If anybody is wondering the manifold to turbo studs can be bought at Autozone. I'm sure you can get them at any parts store but I know they have them at AZ. That's if you don't buy all-thread and make your own.
 
Looks good except for the fact that you loose all function of the twin scroll design and pulse separation. That has always been one of the issues with wastegated Steed Speed manifolds.
 
Tate said:
Stainless loves to gall up. No need to run stainless in high temp environments, reg. bolts work just fine there. Stainless is for corrosive or oxidizing environments.
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Thank for the tip. I always wondered what the deal was with stainless.

Mopar Muscle said:
Looks good except for the fact that you loose all function of the twin scroll design and pulse separation. That has always been one of the issues with wastegated Steed Speed manifolds.
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No need to utilize dual volute pulse when the gate is opening. Turbo would be spooled already.
 
All the Wastgate manufactures recommend, Ie require a Wastgate to be mounted on the outside of a radius in order to regulate boost with flow . Mounted on the inside of a radius like your doing is not recommend. When mounted like you have it makes the Wastgate very ineffective and inefficient in its ability to regulate with flow .
 
this manifold setup will be great for twin setups.....or would a straight flange with waste gate be better
 
Jack-Diesel said:
All the Wastgate manufactures recommend, Ie require a Wastgate to be mounted on the outside of a radius in order to regulate boost with flow . Mounted on the inside of a radius like your doing is not recommend. When mounted like you have it makes the Wastgate very ineffective and inefficient in its ability to regulate with flow .
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The definitely makes sense. I would estimate however that with the boost typical of diesels it is less significant of an issue vs higher flowing gasser crowds trying to keep boost between 5-25psi.$.02
 
Mopar Muscle said:
Looks good except for the fact that you loose all function of the twin scroll design and pulse separation. That has always been one of the issues with wastegated Steed Speed manifolds.
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Unless you are using twin wastegates, you're going to have trouble keeping pulses separated from the front and rear cylinders.
 
AHall said:
No need to utilize dual volute pulse when the gate is opening. Turbo would be spooled already.
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First, what about before the turbo is spooled? Also, true split pulse systems have several benefits and usually make slightly more power in general when sized correctly.


Tate said:
Unless you are using twin wastegates, you're going to have trouble keeping pulses separated from the front and rear cylinders.
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In general, true. You can divide the WG port up to the WG valve face and still get most of the benefits.
 
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