I think I killed my DTT 47RE

Any idea why my trans would have had the early style Belleville spring? Did it revert back to the style with long tabs after a certain point in production?

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biggy238 said:
Any idea why my trans would have had the early style Belleville spring? Did it revert back to the style with long tabs after a certain point in production?

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Click to expand...

Many consider it an upgrade as it has more robust than the later model. It will handle more pressure than the later ones.
 
How when it has more leverage and less material between spokes?

This also contradicts the video I watched last night

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zstroken said:
Many consider it an upgrade as it has more robust than the later model. It will handle more pressure than the later ones.
Click to expand...
So I'm sitting here thinking about this.

What do you mean by 'handle'?

I'm thinking that the new part should be more resilient to deflection, but the flip side to that Is that it would be prone to breaking outright, where the part with thinner cross section could have a higher cycle count and excursion before it fails.

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The older style will handle more pressure before it is permanently deforms. I always ran the new style and didn't have an issue.
 
Part of my care package arrived. No 50hp stickers yet.
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Dremel motor brushes gave out before I got done cutting the second slot for lube pressure.

Drilled and chamfered 4 holes equidistantly around the drum.

Marked the end points of the factory oil feed in the drum and took my dremel with a cut-off wheel and made an equivalent slot.
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Looking good, thanks for linking all those. I'll be sure to do that to mine the next time I tear mine down. Still surprised it's made it this far lol.
 
Sliced both thumbs simultaneously last night while removing the piston from the drum.
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The early belleville spring will handle more line pressure before it flips over/inverts. If you look closely at your belleville spring, it has wear marks in the middle where it should never contact anything, meaning it was flattening/flipping over from line pressure and middle was contacting the ring gear. With the later belleville spring, and if that clutch pack is shimmed toward the loose end of the spec, the oem spring will go flat/flip/contact the ring gear with as little as 130 psi. When that clutch burned up, it gained a bunch of clearance so even if it was shimmed properly, it could have still flipped and rubbed and unloaded the clutch/allowed the piston to over extend and pop the seals.

I love seeing guys tear into their own tranny, it's the best way to learn, and the only way to efficiently hotrod these trucks long term because they all break eventually, it's all about how much it costs to fix or how quickly you can make repairs that determines if you'll make the next race event or weekend burnout contest!
 
Thanks Will.

General question: do the 3 tab thrust washers go in the 48re planetaries? The ATSG shows 6 tab washers. WIT lists the ones I'm after as the same part number. (238 I think)
The kit had one 6 tab and three 3 tab washers

I was also thrown off by the reaction plate in the forward clutch pack. I'm assuming this is just a machined reaction/pressure plate that DTT used? I need a replacement because this one is spalled.
My original pressure plate is cut up so using it is out.
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Spalled plate on the left. Spare reaction plate on the right.
It's going to mess with my clutch clearance but the flip side is maybe I could add?
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Picture of spalling.

I also forgot to order the overdrive direct drum. The steels have worn it to the point that the grooves feel like saw teeth, with will cause clutch capacity issues.
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Some sun shells have six holes for thrust. Some have 3. The newer shells may be six tabs. The 48shell is thicker and non interchangeable with the 47.
 
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