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Dodge Competition and Performance General Dodge Competition and Performance Discussion

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Old 01-05-2008, 01:51 PM   #1
roachie
 
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Building engine frome scratch, need input

Havent seemed to draw much interest in selling my truck, so that '97 12 engine I have laying around looks mighty interesting. This truck is mostly for the fun of it some sled pulls, some draging, and lots of goofing off. Heres my idea on the build shooting for 800ish, lets see what the group thinks:

'97 180 hp block (O-ring the block?)
tap for 14mm head a main studs
hd rod bolts
ISB 275 pistons (need a part number)
370 marine rods (do I need them?)
full balance the bottom end
block stiffener
Helix 3 cam
3rd gen lifters (?)
ARP rocker studs
Bilet valve retainers, keepers, bridges
pushrods (any suggestions, sources?)
thinking I'll test the silver bullet's capacity
not sure on injectors, custom II's proly
I have a line on a a big P-pump havent checked into it yes
already have .093 lines, getting crossovers
what to do about water pump at high rpm?
Mabe water injection

I would like to be able to turn 4500 to 5000 without fear, I could care less about smoke. Guessing the machine work will be done at keating in Knoxville. Thank for any input.
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Old 01-05-2008, 03:48 PM   #2
VMacKenzie
 
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Doubt you'd need the marine rods, don't think you'd want a heavier rod if you're looking to turn 5k RPM.
 
Old 01-06-2008, 01:28 AM   #3
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Sounds like a decent build and vaguely familiar...
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Old 01-06-2008, 10:45 AM   #4
roachie
 
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Anyone know where I can get a part number for those pistons, and what is thier effect on the compression?
Also who makes billet pushrods schied, haisley?
Is the block stiffener worth the money or should I get a main girdle kit?

Joe, who else has done this?

Thanks again
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Old 01-06-2008, 12:37 PM   #5
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I would just use

stock Marine 370 pistons
some 5x.018 injectors
EEP or Greg Hogue billet camshaft with a custom grind
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Old 01-06-2008, 12:51 PM   #6
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If the block stiffener has crank scraper built in then it would help for higher rpms I would think
 
Old 01-06-2008, 01:10 PM   #7
roachie
 
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Sorry I forgot to ad that I will be using a 24 valve head with a P-pump, I didnt think that 12v pistons will work due to the bowl correct?
Maybe Marine common rail pistons?
Billet cam is a little spendy for my taste after you machine the block for it and buy billet lifters, and as far as I know F1 is the only manufacturer offering a bolt on cam gear that isn't a billet.
Should I consider Mach 7's?
I'm not sure if the stiffener has a scraper on it,its on pure diesel power's site.
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Old 01-06-2008, 03:20 PM   #8
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something else to look at I would not use 14mm head studs no reason for them you can do anything you want with a set of 12mm
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Old 01-06-2008, 06:14 PM   #9
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EEP says that their billet cam doesn't require machine of the block. And I have also heard that the Peak Diesel Performance cams use bolt on gears also. I would rather use a 12v head IMO and just port it out real nice and put in bigger valves...
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Old 01-06-2008, 08:03 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DieselTweaker
something else to look at I would not use 14mm head studs no reason for them you can do anything you want with a set of 12mm
Couldn't agree more here........there is about .1 percent of the trucks that need 14mm's, about the same for fire rings.

Quote:
And I have also heard that the Peak Diesel Performance cams use bolt on gears also.
They do, I will run one on each of my trucks.

Jim
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Old 01-06-2008, 08:15 PM   #11
roachie
 
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Ok Ill ditch the 14mm on the head just thought it wouldnt hurt while it was at the machine shop.
I dont want to be rude but just to keep things clear:

this will be a 24V P-PUMP build

Ill check into peak and EEP cams.

Thanks keep it coming.
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Old 01-06-2008, 08:28 PM   #12
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Well It can hurt doing 14mm for head studs due to the lack of material in the deck of the block already not much meat around the stud locations.

Also on camshafts look into haisley machine for cams they have been doing alot of work to improve on their camshafts and have been doing well
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Old 01-06-2008, 09:13 PM   #13
fnschlaud4620

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Is there any actual proof or evidence that 14mm studs weaken the structure of the block? Or is this a matter of opinion. Have any 14mm head studs pulled the threads out from the block, that were properly installed? I am not trying to start conflict. I just purchased a set of 14mm and would like to know if I should not use them.

Thank you.
Fnschlaud4620
 
Old 01-06-2008, 09:51 PM   #14
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The bore will be hexagonal when you torque the 14mm fasteners. I've seen how much the bores are distorted when they aren't machined with a torque plate, I can't imagine how they look with extra material removed from the deck.
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Old 01-07-2008, 05:39 PM   #15
suk1287

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cr marines

Got some cr marine pistons over in the for sale section. PM me if interested
 
Old 01-07-2008, 06:08 PM   #16
VMacKenzie
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by joefarmer
The bore will be hexagonal when you torque the 14mm fasteners. I've seen how much the bores are distorted when they aren't machined with a torque plate, I can't imagine how they look with extra material removed from the deck.
Joe I have wondered too how much distortion occurs with 12mm studs as well. Since Cummins bores these blocks with torque plates set to factory torque settings anything outside that has the potential to affect bore shape.
 
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