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08-07-2006, 12:06 AM
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#21
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Name: oldsmokey97
Title: Too Much Time
Status: Not Here
Join Date: Aug 2006
Member`s Gallery
Posts: 744
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hey 12valve, i am oldsmokey94 off of cumminsforum.
would you like to share all of the tips and tricks you have on this site and the other......
just let'r rip!
How thick is the timing cover and how much would you be able to grind it without running into trouble??
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08-07-2006, 10:48 AM
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#22
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Name: oldsmokey97
Title: Too Much Time
Status: Not Here
Join Date: Aug 2006
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Posts: 744
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there are just so so so many different ways that you can get power out of a p7100 pump.
Plates, afc mods, rack travel mods, dv's, gsk's, and many more.
Just ask the questions and you will get an answer by someone in here.
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08-08-2006, 08:11 AM
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#23
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Name: gunracer1
Title: Too Much Time
Status: Not Here
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: just north of lake weatherford, tx
Member`s Gallery
Posts: 2,068
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i ended up writing this in another post, it should help you all figure it out. they were asking about the front plug from a mack truck.
this mods really only starts to shine after you have done the afc mods. when your truck is idling, the rack is limited by the afc arm. as boost builds the afc arm moves forward and the plate become the rack stop. after you swap out the plate for a deeper plate usally the afc once again become the rack stop[with the plate shoved forward]. this is not true on all trucks but it seems to hold true on 215 pumped trucks that i have played with. now if you take the afc apart and switch the washers around on the diphrame to allow the arm to travel farther forwar, or just grind the big lip off the front washer. with the spring pulled from the afc you can see how much of a differance it make in the rack travel. now on most trucks you will be hitting the front plug now as your rack stop. so this is where this spacer/washer or the mack plug begins to shine. now this is all stuff i have learned and picked up from people over the past few years, i am no pump doctor but i can get them to put out some fuel. and sometimes the afc arm will need to be modded to make sure it is not limiting travel. i just grind about .100 off the front of the arm so it can't hit the front of the afc housing. ok what i just said in the post will destroy and stock clutch or auto with ease, so be carfull. if done correctly you can get over 400 rwhp in a 215 truck without spending a dime. but the washer gsk and a timing bump will be needed
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08-08-2006, 08:15 AM
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#24
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Name: RacinDuallie
Title: Black Sheep Racing
Status: Not Here
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Supporting Northeast Diesel Racing
Member`s Gallery
Posts: 17,369
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Nice write up Gunracer.
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08-08-2006, 03:59 PM
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#25
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Name: Outlaw1
Title: Resident Redneck
Status: Not Here
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: South Texas / Baton Rouge
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Posts: 141
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More explanations, more details and add some pics!
These kind of threads rock!
__________________
'00 F350 CC SWB 4x4
13.35 @ 98.95mph
'07.5 MegaCab 3500 DRW 4x4
Supposed to be stock, but isn't.
'07 Z06 Black/Black 2LZ
10.48 @ 136.86 w/1.65 60' on DR's...Now trappin' 140+
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08-08-2006, 07:59 PM
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#26
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Name: gstanfield
Title: Are we there yet?
Status: Not Here
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Casper, WY
Member`s Gallery
Posts: 777
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I guess my questions were more along the lines of what is what inside these pumps? Is there an exploded view somewhere with parts listed so I know what part we are talking about, this is my first forray into the world of diesel so I know nothing about these fuel pumps.
Thanks,
George
__________________
1997 2500 SLT 4x4 #100 fuel plate, 16.5degrees timing, 3k GSK, Amsoil homemmade intake, Dodgezilla turbo, KDP killed, Dunrite converter & VB, 285/75R16's and autometer gauges.
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08-09-2006, 06:03 PM
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#27
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Name: gstanfield
Title: Are we there yet?
Status: Not Here
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Casper, WY
Member`s Gallery
Posts: 777
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Thank you very much, those were lots of help. I also learned a lot from talking to Tony at dunrite converters for about an hour today. very friendly guy who had some good advice on setting up a street driven 12V.
George
__________________
1997 2500 SLT 4x4 #100 fuel plate, 16.5degrees timing, 3k GSK, Amsoil homemmade intake, Dodgezilla turbo, KDP killed, Dunrite converter & VB, 285/75R16's and autometer gauges.
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08-09-2006, 06:16 PM
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#28
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Name: RacinDuallie
Title: Black Sheep Racing
Status: Not Here
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Supporting Northeast Diesel Racing
Member`s Gallery
Posts: 17,369
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Awesome Post Smokem
Ask away-- O.k.,
What would be some suggestive mods to a P-pump for a very streetable 600hp? ? Say with a common upgraded turbo,exhaust,intake, and a set of semi healthy sticks..... This seems to be very reachable with some tweaking...
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08-09-2006, 06:45 PM
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#29
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Name: gstanfield
Title: Are we there yet?
Status: Not Here
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Casper, WY
Member`s Gallery
Posts: 777
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OK, here is my big P-Pump question:
What benefits would there be (if any) in buying the TST fuel plate instead of grinding my own fuel plate? My thougts are to buy the following:
TST power kit W/#6 fuel plate
TST AFC spring kit
TST governer spring kit (3k)
I'm all for saving money, so if any of this is wasted money, please let me know and suggest an alternative method of achieving my desired power levels of somewhere in the neighborhood of 250-275hp and 650-700ft/lbs.
Thanks,
George
__________________
1997 2500 SLT 4x4 #100 fuel plate, 16.5degrees timing, 3k GSK, Amsoil homemmade intake, Dodgezilla turbo, KDP killed, Dunrite converter & VB, 285/75R16's and autometer gauges.
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08-10-2006, 04:09 AM
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#30
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Name: RacinDuallie
Title: Black Sheep Racing
Status: Not Here
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Supporting Northeast Diesel Racing
Member`s Gallery
Posts: 17,369
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Smokem
Which pump? 160-180-215
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Let's use the 160 as an example.
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08-13-2006, 12:17 AM
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#31
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Name: oldsmokey97
Title: Too Much Time
Status: Not Here
Join Date: Aug 2006
Member`s Gallery
Posts: 744
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i currently have my pump pulled off of my truck right now.
What else could i do to it besides rack plug, plate, and governor arm adjustment to give it more fuel.
I am installing a custom plug (which is the stock plug modded to allow for ultimate rack travel), grinding my #0 plate a little more and adjusting the governor arm.
What else is there to do to it while i have it pulled off that will give me more fuel besides gsk and dv's???
I want this thing to push as much fuel as possible without having to send it off for a cam job and 13mm plungers and barrells.
Any suggestions are appreciated.
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08-25-2006, 10:10 PM
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#32
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Name: gstanfield
Title: Are we there yet?
Status: Not Here
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Casper, WY
Member`s Gallery
Posts: 777
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OK, so how does one go about adjusing the timing on these things?
George
__________________
1997 2500 SLT 4x4 #100 fuel plate, 16.5degrees timing, 3k GSK, Amsoil homemmade intake, Dodgezilla turbo, KDP killed, Dunrite converter & VB, 285/75R16's and autometer gauges.
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08-27-2006, 09:06 PM
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#33
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Name: gstanfield
Title: Are we there yet?
Status: Not Here
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Casper, WY
Member`s Gallery
Posts: 777
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OK, so far the information has been great, but I have managed to confuse myself from the abundance of info. My goals, seeing as how I love my milage and don't care to race, would be for an economical truck producing 275hp and maybe 700ft/lbs without killing my milage. I have yet to buy an intake or exhaust, but will be doing so next month (AEM brute force, and undecided on exhaust). Given a good intake and exhaust, what would it take to reach my hp goals without giving up my milage? Sorry for repeating so much, being new to these things and a machinest I like to get my information correct and do it right the first time, the old measure twice cut once mentality you know
So, for those not looking to build an ultimate race truck, what would be the best bet to give me 275hp with good flowing intake and exhaust?
Fuel plate?
AFC Kit?
Gov. Springs for more top end?
Rack travel stop?
Timing?
What else?
Someone give me a good answer here and I'll be finished with questions for now.
Thanks in advance,
George
__________________
1997 2500 SLT 4x4 #100 fuel plate, 16.5degrees timing, 3k GSK, Amsoil homemmade intake, Dodgezilla turbo, KDP killed, Dunrite converter & VB, 285/75R16's and autometer gauges.
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08-28-2006, 05:17 AM
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#34
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Name: Smokin Monster
Title: Monster 4x4 Performance
Status: Not Here
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Burley ID
Member`s Gallery
Posts: 351
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I used to run an 11 plate(ebay), 215(stock) injectors, 14cm exh housing w/Banks wastegate actuator,4" exh and afe intake. It made about 350hp/900ft-lbs and with 35" tires and 4.10 gears I got great mileage and could tow just about anything with easily manageable egts. If you don't care about racing why bother with more top end? More top end with kill fuel milage faster than anything. For 275hp you may be able to get that or close to it from just sliding your stock plate and afc forward. 15*-16* timing is a good idea. AFC spring kit will help control smoke a little but won't do anything for power or mileage.
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08-28-2006, 06:14 PM
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#35
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Name: gstanfield
Title: Are we there yet?
Status: Not Here
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Casper, WY
Member`s Gallery
Posts: 777
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The more top end was due to the stock engine running out at 98mph and well.....I want to be able to go faster. I had to pass a string of trucks a while back and it took foreever to get past them all at 98mph, even with 20 mile long staights out here in WY sometimes you just need to have more top end
Now, about sliding the plate, where do I find information on how and how much to do that? I have good info on setting thhe timing, and I know what parts are in there as far as grinding the AFC lever, does anyone have a picture of where to grind though, or how much? Sorry to be such a pain, I should just dig into it and trial and error, but I don't want my truck torn down for long right now and I'm just a tad nervous about tearing in without knowing exactly what I'm doing.
I guess I'll just dig into it ASAP and if I have trouble you guys will be here to help me get it going again right?
Thanks,
George
__________________
1997 2500 SLT 4x4 #100 fuel plate, 16.5degrees timing, 3k GSK, Amsoil homemmade intake, Dodgezilla turbo, KDP killed, Dunrite converter & VB, 285/75R16's and autometer gauges.
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08-28-2006, 08:15 PM
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#36
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Name: Smokin Monster
Title: Monster 4x4 Performance
Status: Not Here
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Burley ID
Member`s Gallery
Posts: 351
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The hardest part of getting the afc off is the tamper-proof screw. Hammer and a sharp chisel is the best way I have found to do it. Once that is out of the way the rest is easy and you could put it back together or tear it down again in 5-10 mins. After you remove the intake horn, unbolt the 2 fuel shut down solenoid bolts on the afc housing and pry it out of the way and then remove the little bracket that holds the fuel lines together. It will be much easier to squeeze a socket inbetween the lines to get to the bolt down there. Once you get the afc unbolted pull it off and then loosen the 2 screws that hold the plate on and slide it towards the front of the enigine. Then put it together and see how you like it. If you want more you can grind that plate completely flat. But it will get pretty hot. Or leave a little lip at the bottom to control low rpm smoke if you want to. Then open up the allen plug on the top of the afc and adjust the starwheel to adjust your smoke level. Much more than this and you will be turbo shopping.
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08-28-2006, 10:39 PM
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#37
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Name: inline6359
Title: Microwaving cats since 01
Status: Not Here
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Western PA
Member`s Gallery
Posts: 2,043
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okay guys this is the thread i need. This is my first post here and i joined looking for answeres to the questions i have. I have a 97 12 valve 5 spd. I have 4k GSK, pre boost screw all the way in, afc full forward, starwheel all the way forward, 100plate full forward, 60lb valve springs, titanium keepers and retainers, and a banks housing and brake but that will be replaced with ats twins within about a week, o and a 3 piece manifold. That is my sig, everything i have besides gauges. No come the questions.
1. I am not sure i am getting full potential to my 100plate but nobocy will tell me where my arm needs to hit. My governor arm hits right at the top of the j-hook on my 100plate, is this good or do i need to adjust it?
2. I have the pre boost screw all the way in, medium tension spring in the afc, starwheel full forward, and afc full forward when on the pump. Is this the farthest i can take my afc? If not what else can i do?
3. I installed my 4k springs and took the truck for a ride. Well once it was warm i mashed the pedal and it hit 4k like it was nothing in second gear. Now it seems that i have to push and hold the pedal pretty hard in the same gear to hit those rpm i saw after installation. Do my springs just need some tightening?
4. What else can i do to my pump for more fuel. I dont want a full explenation on everything, just a list i can ask questions about if i want to do it.
Thanks in advance for the replys. I cant seem to get a straight answer anywhere. Most of the time i get one question answered and not the otheres.
Rick
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08-29-2006, 07:09 PM
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#38
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Name: kevin1x
Title: Rookie
Status: Not Here
Join Date: Aug 2006
Member`s Gallery
Posts: 1
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08-29-2006, 07:52 PM
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#39
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Name: gstanfield
Title: Are we there yet?
Status: Not Here
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Casper, WY
Member`s Gallery
Posts: 777
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I went too far.
OK, now I messed up somethin I took apart the rear of the pump, ground the plate flat, and reinstalled it as far fowrad as possible and the AFC star is full forward as well (was already there) Now I have a little more power, not a lot though, and normal cruising is unnoticable at all. My issue comes when I romp on it I get TONS of black smoke. I'm talking a cloud bigger than my house and I'd like to get that down to a small puff as it was before. I'm thinking I have just wayy too much fuel now and need to adjust the AFC back some, maybe move the fuel plate rearward as well? Whatya think?
Also, when I broke off the 4th bolt (tamper thing) it broke off clean with the lower housing so now I have three bolts holding the AFC housing in place. Will it be OK with three bolts?
I don't have my guages yet, shoulda installed them first I know. I'm just wondering how to best tune this thing, maybe adjust the plate so it has no smoke at full throttle 2500rpm, then adjust the AFC so it gives a small puff off the line??
I'm at the mercy of your help now, where should I start to get rid of the smoke and increase the power as it should be more for the amount of smoke pouring out the rear of the truck. I should have just went a small amount at a time
Ideas????
Thanks,
George
__________________
1997 2500 SLT 4x4 #100 fuel plate, 16.5degrees timing, 3k GSK, Amsoil homemmade intake, Dodgezilla turbo, KDP killed, Dunrite converter & VB, 285/75R16's and autometer gauges.
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08-29-2006, 09:41 PM
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#40
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Name: MR4WLR
Title: Just for the fun of it
Status: Not Here
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Amity, OR
Member`s Gallery
Posts: 119
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3 screws holding the cover will be fine
slide the plate and AFC back to a more middle position.
tighten the start wheel back up some to help reduce low boost smoke.
__________________
Corey Ritter
'04 Patriot Blue SRW 3500 QC 4X4 Laramie, 6spd, HO, Edge EZ, TST PowerMAXCR, Smarty, SPS 66, Rip's 4", AFE PG7 W/torque tube, F.A.S.S. 150, 4" Superlift, Ride Rite's w/onboard air, Line-X. Torklift camper tie downs, fuel vent mod, Buckstop/Warn 12,000 lb, MTL w/prolong in trans, Haisley DD. 68K and counting
Hauls Lance "Lite" 1025 @4klbs
513 HP 1043 TQ Fast Specialties DDD 4-15-2006 TST-EZ stack
Quickest 1/4 mile ET 13.949 @ 96 MPH @ PIR truck wieght 8400lbs
Wifes truck '98 Intense Blue 12V QC LB 4X4 Auto
NWDiesels.com
NHRDA
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