47RH Transmission Tech - Budget Build Up

[Big Blue24]

Did you get a billet apply lever with the kit? I don't know how much pressure it takes to break a stock lever but there was a thread a couple weeks ago with a broken stock lever.

[npe3484]

Originally Posted by Big Blue24

Did you get a billet apply lever with the kit? I don't know how much pressure it takes to break a stock lever but there was a thread a couple weeks ago with a broken stock lever.

Their kit didn't come with the billet apply. I forgot to ask if they had one available and how much $$$. I'll be ordering the billet 4.2 from PATC along with some other goodies. I've got my entire trans torn down right now except for the valve body. I'll dig into that once the shift kit gets here.

[Big Blue24]

I finished up my valvebody rebuild/modifications last night. I was intimidated at first but it actually went back together just fine. The real test will be when I get the whole tranny back together.... looks good and works good are totally different!

[npe3484]

So much for sticking with a budget minded theme I just put in my order to PATC for the following upgrades:

• Intermediate "Super" Servo - $73 (it comes with the upgraded cover, so only $50 over what I planned on spending)
• Billet Apply Lever 4.2 ratio - $42
• Performance Low/Reverse Servo and Pin - $39
• Billet 4 Ring Aluminum Accumulator - $39

So add $193 to the $215 I spent with DTT... $408 in upgrades thus far. Not too bad if it gains me some peace of mind.

[Big Blue24]

Free upgrades to the front direct drum:
Drill 4 holes in the outer circumference 31.5mm down from the tangs so the holes hit right between the band gaps. I drilled mine 0.25" and deburred the outer hole with a larger drill bit. Thanks to the tip from Mondtster, these holes should allow quicker fluid evacuation and let the direct clutches lockup quicker. This is a balanced drum so keep the holes evenly spaced.

Another upgrade is to add another feed hole to the inner bore. The drum comes with a 0.93" groove about 1" long to feed fluid pressure behind the piston when the clutch is applied. Common sense tells us that the piston will likely move faster and more evenly if it is fed from both sides of the inner bore so that fluid does not have to travel around the inner bore. It takes a precise hole so that you don't disrupt the two sealing surfaces on the inner bore that interface with the pump stator. My drum was wore enough that I could clearly see where the seals ride in the bore. If you don't have wear, just make the hole(s) at the same height as the 0.093" groove.

[gladesauce7]

thats some good info!

[cumminsturbo94]

ok guys so iv read over a few threads on here and other sites and im trying to decide if i should attempt a rebuild of my 47rh. id say im fairy mechanically inclined and im more than comfortable of doing any of my own work on vehicles. its just that iv never seen the inside of a tranny lol if you now what i mean lol. im just trying to gauge how hard a rebuild is so if anyone could let me know what there thoughts about the difficulty of it id greatly appreciate it

[mondtster]

Trannys aren't hard to disassemble and reassemble, they only go together one way. If you don't pay attention while putting it together however, you will have problems, and figuring out what you've screwed up without help or an understanding of transmission function can be difficult. I'm sure you've seen the pleas for help after a home rebuild threads that show up on here from time to time...

What is a challenge for the home builder is to know what parts are commonly modified and how it is done. I personally believe that the majority of people think that when they buy a "built" automatic that the people building them are putting some magic parts inside them. Sure, anyone could go and buy the most awesome aftermarket high capacity drums, etc. and slap them in the tranny but that is not necessarily the angle that a lot of good tranny builders take. I think those people would be surprised to know how just a few simple modifications will hold the kind of power that the majority of the trucks on this board actually have.

What I would suggest is to do a lot of research (which it sounds like you're starting to do), and try to recruit the help of someone that is in the tranny business for your first one. There are a lot of things that never get discussed that a good tranny guy is aware of. I'm sure I could have figured the trannys out on my own, but having a couple of good friends who are excellent race tranny builders around to call and ask questions certainly helped.

[npe3484]

Here's some comparison pics of billet/upgraded parts vs. stock stuff. All of these came from PATC.

Billet apply lever 4.2 ratio vs. stock 3.8 ratio


Billet 4 ring accumulator vs. stock 2 ring


Billet Intermediate (kickdown) Servo vs. stock



Billet Low/Reverse Servo vs. stock

[cumminsturbo94]

thanks for the replys mondtster and npe3484
i know a few guys around town here that im sure would help me if i do get stuck on some thing during the rebuild so thats taken care of.
i guess my next step would need to be figuring out what all i want done to it. if i have the funds i would like a completely built trans as we all do lol. but im starting to think im might have to do it in stages. what do you guys think the common stages would be, if someone built a tranny in steps?? my plans for this truck is an occasional puller/racer but mostly a street truck with i think bout 650hp or so.
also like mondtster said i need to figure out what parts to upgrade/modify. would anyone happen to have a list of items needed for a fully built tranny????

[bad ass 97 ram]

Originally Posted by Big Blue24

Another cheap upgrade you can do to the overdrive/direct clutch pack, the one that's held in place with the big spring:

Order (9) 0.054" steels instead of the stock (8) 0.068" steels. You also need to order one extra OD/Direct friction. Basically this allows you to upgrade from 9 standard frictions to 10 or an 11% increase in friction surface. This upgrade cost me $15.46 instead of PATC's $100 upgrade!

https://www.wittrans.com/SchematicPa...8&LinkCode=122


Another cheap upgrade is to buy the 48re backing plate for the OD clutch pack. This allows you to run 6 OD clutches instead of 5 for a 20% increase in friction surface area. This upgrade cost me a whopping $13.39 instead of PATC's upgrade for $$$$. To do this mod, you need to buy one extra friction, one extra steel, and only use one flat snap ring on the bottom below the backing plate. The stock setup uses a 1/4" backing plate with a waved snap ring and a flat snap ring.

https://www.wittrans.com/SchematicPa...8&LinkCode=141

I'm still researching "cheap" upgrades to the front two clutch packs but haven't found anything "cheap enough" yet.

And finally, if you want some extra friction, so the stock clutches are more grabby, run a different fluid. Ford Type F is a lot more grabby than ATF+4, if you really want to go all out on fluid, run some John Deere Hy-Gard. That's what I'm going to run in my race tranny. 5 gallons for $56 out the door. The only fluid I could find cheaper was Walmart's dex/mer generic stuff at $9.85 a gallon. I chose the tractor fluid cause it's really grabby, has a much better additive package: better than any tranny fluid on the market today, deals with heat and high pressure better than any tranny fluid on the market, and it's a little thicker so it will tighten up a stockish converter. If you live in a cold climate, I'd mix the tractor fluid 50/50 with something red: ATF, Type F, Dex/Merc, etc.


***Just a disclaimer, I am not a transmission expert. This is my very first transmission build so consult with your local tranny expert before you follow all of my suggestions.

how maqny steels anf frictions can you put in the front clutch pack?

[mondtster]

Originally Posted by bad ass 97 ram

how maqny steels anf frictions can you put in the front clutch pack?

How many do you want?

[Big Blue24]

On the front direct clutch pack, the one the intermediate band wraps around, I comfortably fit 6 using three skinny and three fat frictions (3@0.065 and 3@0.96), I think Mondtster has fit 7 of the super skinny 0.061" clutches.

I have attached a link to the Wittrans schematic: To gain space for extra clutches you use the pressure plate 149 from the forward clutch in place of the reaction plate 146 on the direct drum.https://www.wittrans.com/Schematic.a...18&Schematic=2

[bad ass 97 ram]

What About The Other Clutches,did You Replace Those Too?

[mondtster]

I would replace all clutches and steels during a full rebuild.

[npe3484]

I found this write-up to be pretty helpful during reassembly. It's a 46RH instead of the 47RH, but much of it is still applicable.

46RE Tutorial

[DWitcher]

This is fantastic! Please keep the tech tips coming.

[badasscatman]

I bought all my stuff through patc and it took 5 weeks to get it all the guys there sent my stuff one or what ever when ever. I was on the phone with them every couple days. there shipper sucked azz .I dont recomend them .

[mondtster]

Originally Posted by badasscatman

I bought all my stuff through patc and it took 5 weeks to get it all the guys there sent my stuff one or what ever when ever. I was on the phone with them every couple days. there shipper sucked azz .I dont recomend them .

That's not the first time I've heard stories like this about them. Returning stuff becomes an even bigger challenge from what I hear. I've only ordered from them once and the order was fine, although a bit expensive.

IMHO, PATC is simply good at marketing. Do any transmission search and their name comes up. Look at almost every transmission thread on a forum and their name comes up. PATC doesn't do or sell anything special, they just present everything in a way that the average guy who doesn't build trannys every day can understand and get what they are looking for.

[rockjeep73]

Originally Posted by mondtster

That's not the first time I've heard stories like this about them. Returning stuff becomes an even bigger challenge from what I hear. I've only ordered from them once and the order was fine, although a bit expensive.

IMHO, PATC is simply good at marketing. Do any transmission search and their name comes up. Look at almost every transmission thread on a forum and their name comes up. PATC doesn't do or sell anything special, they just present everything in a way that the average guy who doesn't build trannys every day can understand and get what they are looking for.

Where would you suggest to order parts from other than PATC for us guys tinkering with our own transmissions?