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Old 11-21-2020, 04:01 PM   #20801
Ram12vcummins

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So I think it has a nut with a hold down. This would be the better?
Click the image to open in full size.


Click the image to open in full size.

It also looks like the aluminum intake cover has a crack. And to me looks like it is a water cooled intake. Click the image to open in full size.
Do the pump numbers mean anything?
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Old 11-21-2020, 07:11 PM   #20802
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Injector hold downs are under the valve cover, that's just a pass through fitting.

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Old 11-21-2020, 08:12 PM   #20803
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Truckers, lets see your rigs!

Click the image to open in full size.Click the image to open in full size.
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Flipping your mirrors up when you don't tow? That serves no purpose other than to let me know that you are a douche, from a distance.

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Old 11-21-2020, 08:36 PM   #20804
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Yeah like that lol. All the ones I've seen look just like that where they've been beat on with a punch because nobody ever buys the tool.

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Old 11-21-2020, 09:56 PM   #20805
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Click the image to open in full size.Click the image to open in full size.
That looks like my engine putting carbon on the nut coming from the exhaust getting by the valves.
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Old 11-22-2020, 09:52 AM   #20806
Ram12vcummins

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Ok well have to get to pulling the engine soon.

The spacer plate seems a little goofy. Is there not lots of issues with the liners moving over time?
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Old 11-22-2020, 10:09 AM   #20807
Ram12vcummins

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Truckers, lets see your rigs!

Watching a few videos. Same nozzle hold down as posted above. Seems pretty simple to r&r rhe nozzles.

So one photos posted with the nut that has 2 slots is the one style and the other is the part blow up showing #11?

Last edited by Ram12vcummins; 11-22-2020 at 10:10 AM.
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Old 11-22-2020, 10:45 AM   #20808
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ram12vcummins View Post
Watching a few videos. Same nozzle hold down as posted above. Seems pretty simple to r&r rhe nozzles.

So one photos posted with the nut that has 2 slots is the one style and the other is the part blow up showing #11?
Correct, the upper one in the parts breakdown is the weaker style.

You need some specific tools to pull nozzles, need the spanner for the hold down and then there is a specific line socket.
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Old 11-22-2020, 11:10 AM   #20809
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SmokinCAT View Post
Correct, the upper one in the parts breakdown is the weaker style.



You need some specific tools to pull nozzles, need the spanner for the hold down and then there is a specific line socket.


I seen the specific socket and the small spanner for the nut. Havenít seen a visual of the other style.

So far Iím gathering the 7fb can put out so good power with stock parts. A different turbo and maybe some larger nozzles. Then pump work.

I havenít found anything on what kind of power without an air2air. And what effect that might have on the engine.
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Old 11-22-2020, 12:12 PM   #20810
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Are you planning on working it or just a puller?

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Old 11-22-2020, 01:31 PM   #20811
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Itíll be worked. We donít have any truck pulls around us. It will most likely become his full time truck, except for maybe gravel. We haul heavy too. But I am usually doing the heavier stuff.
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Old 11-22-2020, 07:24 PM   #20812
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A working B at that power level can get expensive. If its a 400 the stock injectors will flow quite a bit, I'd say just start with pump tuning and air. Are you guys going to go through it? There's kits out there with steel pistons now.

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Old 11-22-2020, 07:24 PM   #20813
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Quote:
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Itíll be worked. We donít have any truck pulls around us. It will most likely become his full time truck, except for maybe gravel. We haul heavy too. But I am usually doing the heavier stuff.
Are you rebuilding? If so Iíd rebuild with steel top pistons, IPD is touting their parts as special, but they arenít special, they are 3412 pistons.
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Old 11-22-2020, 09:22 PM   #20814
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Yes. Itís 400 hp stock. And we will be tearing it apart and rebuilding it. Just donít wanna go through the trouble of redoing the truck and then having the motor puke.

So are ipd kits decent? Iíve always been leery of aftermarket kits.
Steel pistons are the way to go?

I read some more on cat specs for the liner protrusion and surprised by the specs. They seem lax. .001 to .006.

I would think we would get counterbores cut and liners shimmed to maintain as close to .0045 across all 6. Unless thereís a different recommendation for these engines.

Whatís the expensive part about getting the power?

The pump should come off and have the timing mechanics rebuilt?
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Old 11-23-2020, 11:18 AM   #20815
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ram12vcummins View Post
Yes. Itís 400 hp stock. And we will be tearing it apart and rebuilding it. Just donít wanna go through the trouble of redoing the truck and then having the motor puke.

So are ipd kits decent? Iíve always been leery of aftermarket kits.
Steel pistons are the way to go?

I read some more on cat specs for the liner protrusion and surprised by the specs. They seem lax. .001 to .006.

I would think we would get counterbores cut and liners shimmed to maintain as close to .0045 across all 6. Unless thereís a different recommendation for these engines.

Whatís the expensive part about getting the power?

The pump should come off and have the timing mechanics rebuilt?
I do think people have better luck with IPD parts for mechanicals than a lot are having with the liners for the electronic engines.

Faulkner can answer to the proper spec, I know most set them towards the upper end of the spectrum to ensure the liner is clamped well.

Power is pretty simple, higher flowing nozzles, a good turbo, and some pump adjustments are really all there is to it..

Timing advance can be taken off the engine without removing the pump, you want to make sure you have the pump pinned before taking anything loose, also on the advance you don't mess with the start screw unless you have someone that can meter time it to see at what rpm the engine starts advancing the injection timing.

If the timing advance is working there isn't really any reason to mess with it, 7Fb engines don't need to be advanced anymore than they already are.
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Old 11-23-2020, 11:46 AM   #20816
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Our company policy is 5-6 thou on projection. CAT spec is broader. I'm not sure where the top end is exactly, but I'm guessing 7+ puts you in fractured flange territory.



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Old 11-23-2020, 11:49 AM   #20817
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Replace the timing advance bolts with new ones. The used ones almost always yield and let timing slip.

I don't know where the hot rodders set them. We always advance the timing so that the hole in the flywheel and the hole in the housing make a figure 8.

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Old 11-23-2020, 12:40 PM   #20818
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Replace the timing advance bolts with new ones. The used ones almost always yield and let timing slip.

I don't know where the hot rodders set them. We always advance the timing so that the hole in the flywheel and the hole in the housing make a figure 8.

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That is fine on most engines after the 7fb, they are already at 24* and that is plenty, basically the newer the engine the less advanced they are from the factory for emissions.
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Old 11-23-2020, 09:17 PM   #20819
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So maybe the pump should stay on the engine. But I have read the timing part can wear? Or Iím misinterpreting something.

Ya I figured turbo and maybe nozzles. Iím just not that educated one what length or where to stop in size. Obviously with no air to air itís probably a little more limited if we want it to be reliable.

Next chance I get, Iíll look at the turbo and see what itís size it might be.

I had read about the start screw.
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Old 11-23-2020, 09:43 PM   #20820
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The weight assembled wear and eventually eject themselves through the case if neglected.

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